at least 24 hours, how long does a shaken up bottle of your brews usually take to settle and clear??, but sediment is easily avoided by drawing off the first dirty 1/2 pint from a well settled keg, and then decanting the bright beer into an empty keg using co2 to push the full keg through under pressure. Leaving you with a full keg of bright beer and no sediment to mix in in the first place. So with a keg of bright beer, all you need do on arrival would be chill it to encourage all the co2 agitated out of suspension during the journey has settled back into suspension.
However If planning for use exclusively for camping trips, an upto ã30 regulator is the least of the costs, using corny kegs with dedicated prvs (pressure relief valves) fitted in each keg you dont require one of the more expensive 'brewing regs' with a prv fitted.. if you use sankey type kegs, then its a different matter but you can source US style couplers with prvs fitted.
To condition beer consistently with pressure in a keg you require full control over both the keg pressure and its temperature, cold beer being more accommodating to co2.. Temperature control or at least careful appreciation and accounting for is also crucial for pouring a consistent pint too, Most opt for the keg fridge as the most economical solution. kegs are only the containers used in a dispensing system, and as home brewers we tend to use simple basic solutions compared to some commercial solutions to beer dispensing problems for example micro line pressure restriction is a common home brewers solution to stopping fobbing or foamy pours while bars use much more elaborate systems. Even so there are some necessary expenditures, a regulator being a small cost in the grand scheme.