Batch priming - why two FVs?

The Homebrew Forum

Help Support The Homebrew Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Global33

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 12, 2017
Messages
124
Reaction score
26
Location
NULL
If you use a second FV, can you transfer from the first using a tap, rather then a syphon?

Are there any other advantages to using to Fermenting Vessels?
 
If you use a second FV, can you transfer from the first using a tap, rather then a syphon?

Are there any other advantages to using to Fermenting Vessels?

Yes, you can use a tap, but you will want some tubing that fits it, to minimise splashing as oxidising the beer at this stage is detrimental.

Racking to another FV us about clarity really. There are no other advantages and it represents an additional risk of infection as well.

I rack all my beer after 2 weeks and bottle at three. John Palmer does not bother racking and he knows more than I do!

There are lots of different approaches. They all work.
 
If you use a second FV, can you transfer from the first using a tap, rather then a syphon?

Are there any other advantages to using to Fermenting Vessels?
If you transfer using a tap you have to do so carefully so that you don't introduce lots of air into your beer which can have detrimental effect. That's one reason why people use bottling wands with a tap.
And if you have a second FV to hand you can use it as a bottling bucket which enables you to batch prime and this gives more consistent priming rates and saves some time and effort against priming individual bottles.
I use two FVs. Neither has a tap, so I siphon transfer, whether its to rack off after about 8 days or so when the primary fermentation has subsided, or to transfer to bottles or a PB. The reason I rack off is because it helps to get a clearer beer going into bottles or PB, however some people don't bother with this step.
 
Ok and thank you. So it is possible to batch prime in the first FV, but you run the risk of disturbing sediment doing so. Using a second FV means the beer is likely to be clearer. If you just prime in one and disturb settlement, can you just leave it longer for it to settle or could it start fermenting again?
 
@Global33
So it is possible to batch prime in the first FV, but you run the risk of disturbing sediment doing so.
YES. SOME FOLKS DO IT THAT WAY


Using a second FV means the beer is likely to be clearer.
YES. RACK OFF AND THEN LEAVE IT FOR A FURTHER WEEK OR MORE IN THE WARM FOLLOWED BY TWO DAYS IN A COOL PLACE SHOULD GIVE ALMOST CLEAR BEER

If you just prime in one and disturb settlement, can you just leave it longer for it to settle or could it start fermenting again?
YOU CAN BATCH PRIME IN THE SINGLE FV AND LEAVE IT A FEW HOURS ONLY BEFORE BOTTLING. IF YOU ADD SUGAR SOLUTION THAT WILL BE BETTER FOR MIXING. IF YOU LEAVE IT ANY LONGER THAN A FEW HOURS THE YEAST WILL START TO CHEW ON THE SUGAR AND THAT WILL THEN BE LOST AS PRIMING SUGAR FOR CARBONATION.
 
@Global33
So it is possible to batch prime in the first FV, but you run the risk of disturbing sediment doing so.
YES. SOME FOLKS DO IT THAT WAY


Using a second FV means the beer is likely to be clearer.
YES. RACK OFF AND THEN LEAVE IT FOR A FURTHER WEEK OR MORE IN THE WARM FOLLOWED BY TWO DAYS IN A COOL PLACE SHOULD GIVE ALMOST CLEAR BEER

If you just prime in one and disturb settlement, can you just leave it longer for it to settle or could it start fermenting again?
YOU CAN BATCH PRIME IN THE SINGLE FV AND LEAVE IT A FEW HOURS ONLY BEFORE BOTTLING. IF YOU ADD SUGAR SOLUTION THAT WILL BE BETTER FOR MIXING. IF YOU LEAVE IT ANY LONGER THAN A FEW HOURS THE YEAST WILL START TO CHEW ON THE SUGAR AND THAT WILL THEN BE LOST AS PRIMING SUGAR FOR CARBONATION.


Thank you. I think it's starting make sense now. :)
 
Thank you folks. Finally committed to my first order. Got more expensive then I planned, but I'd rather give myself the best chance possible with the first run.

So I've ordered a Youngs American Pale Ale kit. How long would you give it in the second FV before bottling?
 
Brew it in your main FV and after a week add the dry hops, a week later transfer it into your second FV with the priming sugar and bottle it straight away. You might want to obtain some fine mesh bags to assist in filtering out any dry hop material when you transfer as it is very prone to disturbance when transferring and you really don't want any in your bottles if you can avoid it, it just spoils the drinking experience. That's a great kit by the way, was quaffing some on Friday that's been bottled six weeks it is blimmin lovely.
 
I usually batch prime in the primary (although sometimes I use a secondary and will batch prime in that).
After you've added your priming solution, carefullyand gently stir it in. Making sure you dont disturb the trub cake too much. Then leave it for 30 mins ( I usually star san my bottles/easy kegs during this time) for any disturbed trub to fall back down to the bottom of the FV. Then package as normal.
I've done this tens, if not hundreds of times and dont get any more sediment in the bottle than I do if I rack to a secondary
 
So I've ordered a Youngs American Pale Ale kit. How long would you give it in the second FV before bottling?
I have done this kit and it is first class.
If it were me I would
- leave it until its finished (minimal airlock bubbles) and/or its clearing, backed up by SG readings
- rack off
- 2 days at temperature
- add the hops, and leave for four days
- two days in a cool place
- package
As @Poochops has said you should consider how you are going to filter out the hop bits as you transfer your beer into bottles (although a few don't bother).
Although I have used bags I now prefer a nylon sock over the end of the siphon tube, like this (although mine came from a Festival kit)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5-x-Home-...390902?hash=item35f5d12436:g:0ykAAOSwIwhWTF6w
This allows the hop particles to be free in the beer.
You might find this useful too
A Newbies Guide to Dry Hopping Your Beer - The HomeBrew Forum
 
can that Nylon sock be washed and reused? I might get some as need to filter our orange peal and grapefruit zest
 
I used to use a secondary, now totally unnecessary imo, as for batch priming fv,i open lid, dump dextrose in, no mixing, ten minutes later i bottle, never had any carbonation issues, ever.
Each to their own 👍
 
Never seen the point of batch priming. It seems to have as many pitfalls as advantages over simply adding sugar to each bottle.
 
Never seen the point of batch priming. It seems to have as many pitfalls as advantages over simply adding sugar to each bottle.

In my limited experience, I found priming each bottle pretty quick, think it was only 20mins (ish). If you add in the time to batch, clean etc there can't be much in it???

But never batching I don't have anything to base that on...
 
In my limited experience, I found priming each bottle pretty quick, think it was only 20mins (ish). If you add in the time to batch, clean etc there can't be much in it???

But never batching I don't have anything to base that on...

Batch priming =20 seconds
Easiest thing ever
 
Although I have used bags I now prefer a nylon sock over the end of the siphon tube, like this (although mine came from a Festival kit)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5-x-Home-...390902?hash=item35f5d12436:g:0ykAAOSwIwhWTF6w
This allows the hop particles to be free in the beer.


I have found this to work great with hop debris, with one simple addition. pop a champagne wire cage into the hop sock and it stops it from being sucked onto the siphon hose.
 
Although I have used bags I now prefer a nylon sock over the end of the siphon tube, like this (although mine came from a Festival kit)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5-x-Home-...390902?hash=item35f5d12436:g:0ykAAOSwIwhWTF6w
This allows the hop particles to be free in the beer.


I have found this to work great with hop debris, with one simple addition. pop a champagne wire cage into the hop sock and it stops it from being sucked onto the siphon hose.
Hops are amazing and also a pain in the butt to use. The best way imo to deal with a dryhopped beer is to cold crash it if possible, means you don't need to transfer as all the hops sink.
Pellets all the way,every time
 
Back
Top