Cost of an AG?

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What volume are you brewing?

19 - 21 litres, depends how it goes on the day. My last order of malt n hops came to £43 inc. postage. From that I'll get nine brews using 2750g of base malt for each. I can get away with that due to getting my act together re sparging. Only use 'basic' hops and a few adjuncts - no sugar. Yeast from CML and I'm laughing...
 
19 - 21 litres, depends how it goes on the day. My last order of malt n hops came to £43 inc. postage. From that I'll get nine brews using 2750g of base malt for each. I can get away with that due to getting my act together re sparging. Only use 'basic' hops and a few adjuncts - no sugar. Yeast from CML and I'm laughing...

What ABV/efficiency are you getting from that? I'd struggle to reach 2.75% with my set up!
 
What ABV/efficiency are you getting from that? I'd struggle to reach 2.75% with my set up!

All my beers end up in the OG 1040 - 1045 range, depends on adjuncts, crystal and roast malts used. I'm using Hook Head pale malt from The Homebrew Company right now. It's cracking stuff and a ridiculous £18.95 a sack!

Example - a cream ale brewed 13/8...

2750g pale
500g flaked maize
220g flaked barley
100g crystal

OG 1042. FG 1008. ABV 4.6%. 20 litres.
 
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The photos are not mine in this thread. However, I fail to see how a pickle jar is any different than a kilner jar. The seal between jar and lid is the same, the screw mechanism is different but external to the seal.

Sterile practices will always be better, however good sanitation is more than adequate with this method, providing your brew process is ok. The low ph and alcohol of the beer will inhibit bacterial growth, as it does with bottling. And we all know harvesting yeast from bottles does not lead to infections.

Its the rubber seal, they are porous when not compressed. Thats the whole idea of them. 2li picked onion jars work very well, I ve been using them for years. If the jar is new (still smells of pickles) fill with warm water and oxyclean. if you have a pot big enough, just boil the **** out of them for a couple of hours.
 
Definitely buy in bulk as I normally but my grain in 25kg for base and hops can be bought likewise.
Also if you can split delivery or brew something similar with someone local it certainly makes a difference.

Sent from my ALE-L21 using Tapatalk
 
All my beers end up in the OG 1040 - 1045 range, depends on adjuncts, crystal and roast malts used. I'm using Hook Head pale malt from The Homebrew Company right now. It's cracking stuff and a ridiculous £18.95 a sack!

Example - a cream ale brewed 13/8...

2750g pale
500g flaked maize
220g flaked barley
100g crystal

OG 1042. FG 1008. ABV 4.6%. 20 litres.[/quote
I think I may be using too much base malt!
 
All my beers end up in the OG 1040 - 1045 range, depends on adjuncts, crystal and roast malts used. I'm using Hook Head pale malt from The Homebrew Company right now. It's cracking stuff and a ridiculous £18.95 a sack!

Example - a cream ale brewed 13/8...

2750g pale
500g flaked maize
220g flaked barley
100g crystal

OG 1042. FG 1008. ABV 4.6%. 20 litres.[/quote
I think I may be using too much base malt!

Until recently I used 3500g pale with adjuncts in varying quantities / ratios to get that OG. Stirring the mash midway, being meticulous and s-l-o-w with sparging and using said malt resulted in that whopping increase in efficiency. Dunno which one made the most difference but there you have it.
 
I must have misunderstood my CO2 supplier last time, because I just refilled a 5kg tank, and 10kg of CO2 costs twice as much. I was sure they told me the CO2 is near the same price for 5kg vs 10kg, and you just pay the difference in the tank cost, but obviously not. My 5kg tank refill cost 31.75 pounds. So at today's prices and my average brew coverage of 15, it costs me just over 5p per pint in CO2 (cheating a bit, as I count the whole 40 pints).

If the tank tare weight is accurate, I actually received more in the region of 5.5 kg CO2, so you can throw in a 10% discount.

It's possible I used to have slow leaks due to poor seal, but I better understand that whole area now and I'm sure I have no leak. I think I also probably over do the pressure just to push through cleaning fluid. I'll be trying to push this tank beyond 15 brews. It's my 4th 5kg CO2 tank since I bought my cornies. Starting to feel like a veteran.
 
Weekend brew was a tripel (1.074). Got about 18L in FV.

5.6 kg pils = �£4.50 (�£20 for 25kg of chateau)
0.3kg abbey malt = �£0.6
0.1kg carabelge = �£0.2
50g of hops (chinook, tattanger, mittelfruh) = �£2
0.6kg of sucrose/dextrose mix = �£1
crossmyloof belgian yeast = �£1

Grain was bought on sale mind...

Water is boiled night before with a campden tablet.

So I get to �£9 for 18L,

50p a litre :thumb:
 
I brewed 18 L of Greg Hughes London Bitter for �£6.50 + yeast so 19.1 p per bottle (got 34 bottles). Most expensive part was the maris otter malt at �£4.05 for a 3kg bag, that's the last of my small purchases of crushed malt, On to my 25 kg sack of GEB Irish Ale malt which would have cost �£2.05 for this brew.

That's the 2nd use of the Wyeast 1099 Whitbred yeast so it's down to �£3.50 a brew (ignoring the DME costs of <�£1 per batch) and still have some to re-culture, that would bump the cost to �£10 or 29.4p per bottle. Not being a hop head is kind on the wallet, and lets me play with yeast. :-)

Liquid yeast doesn't seem so expensive now, as it seems that S-04 is around £2.50 and MJ yeasts are over £3, I couldn't believe the price of dried lager yeast it was almost a fiver and you'd probably need 2 sachets. My dried yeast back-ups are all gonna be CML yeast now.
 
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