Spinning sparge arm. What do I do with it?

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MacKiwi

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After reading Tazuk's thread (viewtopic.php?f=30&t=32073), I had a strong urge to make a spinning sparge arm. So I did. And it works great! But I'm not sure what to do with it... :oops:

To date, I've been using the tin foil method to sparge. Historically I haven't been able control my pump down to 1l/min, so I just manually observe the water level in the mash tun, and turn the pump on/off to keep 1 inch of water above the grain bed as I drain off the sweet wort.

Now I've added a bypass valve to the pump, and it turns out that at 1l/min the sparge arm won't spin. This is hardly surprising - 1l/min really is just a dribble (or a piddle, hmmm, I might have figured out where one forum member got his name from). So first question - does anyone use a spinning arm at 1l/min succesfully? If so, I need to redesign mine - fewer holes perhaps. It works at 2l/min, but no lower.

Next question, if I ditch the tin foil and just sparge the grain bed (currently at 2l/min, which is the lowest rate my arm works at), I get a nice flow of sweet wort and the grain bed is not disturbed. But without the tin foil, how do I vorlaff (sp???) at the beginning? When I return the initial murky runnings to the tun, it disturbs the grain bed, which results in more murky runnings, etc...

So, in general, would be interested in hearing how people use these widgets...
 
This is hardly surprising - 1l/min really is just a dribble (or a piddle, hmmm, I might have figured out where one forum member got his name from)
:lol:
So first question - does anyone use a spinning arm at 1l/min succesfully? If so, I need to redesign mine - fewer holes perhaps. It works at 2l/min, but no lower.
Pass, but...thinking aloud...
fewer holes (tape some up with insulation tape see if it spins)
smaller holes (higher pressure might make it spin)
I'd be quite happy sparging at 2ltr/min (Isparge at 2.75)
But without the tin foil, how do I vorlaff (sp???) at the beginning? When I return the initial murky runnings to the tun, it disturbs the grain bed, which results in more murky runnings, etc...
You can't...you have to do both if using a spinny. If using one of the ss wort aerators you can recirc the mash for a few mins then take the runnings to the copper and change the feed to the HLT....you can do this because there are no small holes to clog in the aerator unlike the spinny.
 
i realy can not work some people out now days :wha: :wha: :wha:
all info in build inc wot i got it to sparge to

as for this quote who was it aim at :wha: :wha:

Quote:
This is hardly surprising - 1l/min really is just a dribble (or a piddle, hmmm, I might have figured out where one forum member got his name from)
 
Sorry if I missed something Tazuk, but I've just re-read your how-to thread, and as I said, it inspired me to make my own, but you've not mentioned how it has worked out for you. I'm just asking questions here based on my experience with the one I built.

The oblique reference was for PiddleDribble's amusment...
 
from wot i read about these so is the height of hlt and rotating sparge arm more of a drop better it will be but i never use it for herms system :thumb:

MacKiwi said:
Sorry if I missed something Tazuk, but I've just re-read your how-to thread, and as I said, it inspired me to make my own, but you've not mentioned how it has worked out for you. I'm just asking questions here based on my experience with the one I built.

The oblique reference was for PiddleDribble's amusment...
 
MacKiwi said:
does anyone use a spinning arm at 1l/min succesfully? If so, I need to redesign mine - fewer holes perhaps. It works at 2l/min, but no lower.
So, in general, would be interested in hearing how people use these widgets...
I tried to make one a few years ago but never managed to get it to spin as well as the bought one. I use a "phils sparge arm" and sparge as slow as I can, approx 600ml/min. I pump from the HLT until the arm just starts to rotate. http://youtu.be/HMLVjkTFBYA.
Mark
 
Piddles the name, dribbles the game.
I batch sparge...its darned easier.
 
tazuk said:
wow that is good :thumb: wot pump did you use i have a solar pump :thumb:
I use a March May 809 pump with a ball valve controlling the output rate.
 
Hi Beer Taster, does the sparge water sprinkle directly onto the grain bed? Was wondering how you filter the first runnings in that case - I find that adding it straight back to the tun disturbs the bed...
 
MacKiwi said:
Hi Beer Taster, does the sparge water sprinkle directly onto the grain bed? Was wondering how you filter the first runnings in that case - I find that adding it straight back to the tun disturbs the bed...
I have a HERMS set-up so I continually recirculate, then at the end of the mash I fit the spinning arm. - sorry no help for your set-up
 
Ok, got it. How is the wort returned to the tun during the mash? Do you use one of those conical wort spreaders?
 
i dont know me self yet i got a hells lager to do soon as its a step mash i need to decide me self :wha: :thumb:

MacKiwi said:
Ok, got it. How is the wort returned to the tun during the mash? Do you use one of those conical wort spreaders?
 
MacKiwi said:
Ok, got it. How is the wort returned to the tun during the mash? Do you use one of those conical wort spreaders?
I use a home made version of the wort spreader, made out of stainless nuts, bolts and washers. Not as elegant as the ones EB manufactures but does the job.
herms-return2.jpg
 
sweet more pics as i can weld plzzzzzzzzzzzz :D :thumb:


beer taster said:
MacKiwi said:
Ok, got it. How is the wort returned to the tun during the mash? Do you use one of those conical wort spreaders?
I use a home made version of the wort spreader, made out of stainless nuts, bolts and washers. Not as elegant as the ones EB manufactures but does the job.
herms-return2.jpg
 
Thanks for answering our questions Beer Taster, like Tazuk I'm thinking ahead to herms and step mashing. So if I've got this right, with your HERMs...

1. Mashing - wort recirculated through HERMs system. Returned to tun via wort spreader. This is done at a reasonably high flow rate (as fast as the pump will go?), and since there are no wee holes to get clogged up, the initial murky runnings recirculate freely and the filter bed gets set up.
2. Sparging - you replace the wort spreader with your sparge arm, and add sparge water at a low rate (<1l/min) and transfer the runnings into your boiler.

Did I get that right?

Thanks!
 
when returning first cloudy running's from Mash Tun I pour them gently through a large fine sieve, doesn't disturb the grain bed and there's usually only 2-3 litres a time.
 
MacKiwi said:
Did I get that right?
Yes thats correct.
1. I have managed to get a stuck mash by recirculating too fast. I'm not sure of the exact flow rate i use but I recirculate for >60 mins. I've just upgraded my mash tun and my new false bottom has slightly larger holes so I may be able to circulate at a higher rate.

2. As i'm a gadget man I transer the runnings to the boiler via an automatic underback. http://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=6574
 
looking at phils arm he using 4mm pipe and it look like 1mm holes
so that is half the size of wot we was using mmmmmmmmm :D i wonder


beer taster said:
MacKiwi said:
does anyone use a spinning arm at 1l/min succesfully? If so, I need to redesign mine - fewer holes perhaps. It works at 2l/min, but no lower.
So, in general, would be interested in hearing how people use these widgets...
I tried to make one a few years ago but never managed to get it to spin as well as the bought one. I use a "phils sparge arm" and sparge as slow as I can, approx 600ml/min. I pump from the HLT until the arm just starts to rotate. http://youtu.be/HMLVjkTFBYA.
Mark
 
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