bottling time???

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chrispurvis

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Hi guys
I put my ingredients for my wilko pilsner into my FV on monday evening OG 1037
took a sample yesterday and today both at 1008.
Please say i can now bottle. Plzzz
 
Im aware its only 4/5 days but the kit suggests 4-6
Also the krausen has raised and settled down again and its not nearly as lively as the first gravity reading i pulled off.
Finished fermenting or being impatient again?
 
I only do all grain but my last one went from FV to bottling in 5 days as opposed to my normal 7 days.
The thing to check is that the gravity is stable. In the high temp the beers tend to ferment much quicker.
As said before ensure the gravity is stable (at least over 2 days) before bottling.
Disclaimer - I always ferment over a much shorter time than others recommend and as of yet have not had any bottle bombs. This is not to say that others won't.
 
Haha. I love the disclaimer. Ive boxed the bottles in the shed just incase of bottle bombs. Fingers crossed they dont. Not worried too much about the mess but more wasted beer. ;)
 
Given that it's bottled, might sound like a bit late to give advice.

For future reference, leaving the beer in the fermenter for a fortnight or so enables the yeast to convert any by-products from the fermentation process to ethanol quite efficiently. These by-products are much more likely to be produced by a fast fermentation at high temps than a lower temp fermentation.

Bottling when the FG reading is "right", might actually push forward the date that your beer fulfils its potential.

Modern kits make good beer, even the cheapo looking Wilko 1 can kits are more than a match for the heavily advertised brands, as long as you recognise that they need time, more than anything else.

The best enhancer for these kits is time. Time in the FV (2 weeks). Time in the bottle in the warm (2 weeks). Then as much time as you can possibly spare in a cool environment (garage / shed) for another 2 weeks.

From what you say, I very much doubt that are going to have any explosions, unless you overprimed horrendously. You will get something that is drinkable fairly soon, but is not as good as could have been achieved.

Apologies that this is not really what you wanted to hear. If you post some feedback on how it turns out, over the next few weeks, I'm sure we can advise further.
 
Cheers slid. I apreciate all feedback as im still clueless. I certainly will post the outcome.
Ive got another beer going a wilko light lager. This will spend at least a couple of weeks in fv as ive run out of bottles.:/
Then come pay day in a few weeks im gonna buy a keg and a woodfords kit. This will, im sorry come with lots of questions as my family are big ale fans. Cant get this one wrong.

Sorry for running on. Im now on my 9th coopers european lager..........hic :)
 
If you want fast, drinkable beer, the best bet is a stout (unbelievably?). The Coopers Original stout kit with the white label and the black top is the subject of one of very longest threads on the forum - in Beer Kit Reviews - and is IME the best way to a fast pint. Even pimped up, messed around and generally maltreated, it makes reliably drinkable beer that turns into very good beer with time.

The Wilko kit, I've only done as a 2 can brew and that too, was really quite good in just 4 weeks.

All stouts are good with cheap cider too.
:cheers:
 
Cheers slid. I apreciate all feedback as im still clueless. I certainly will post the outcome.
Ive got another beer going a wilko light lager. This will spend at least a couple of weeks in fv as ive run out of bottles.:/
Then come pay day in a few weeks im gonna buy a keg and a woodfords kit. This will, im sorry come with lots of questions as my family are big ale fans. Cant get this one wrong.

Sorry for running on. Im now on my 9th coopers european lager..........hic :)

Worth getting a couple of extra taps for the keg as these do seem to be problematic. Check threads for splits.
 

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