Wilkos best bitter
- Thread starter Benjamin
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Frogbrew
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Is it wilkos, didn't think they did own brand best bitter?
But as said pitch yeast after mixing wort up, I usually leave a few minutes after sprinkling over the top then give a gentle stir. Fit lid then leave for 2 weeks before bottling/cask.
But as said pitch yeast after mixing wort up, I usually leave a few minutes after sprinkling over the top then give a gentle stir. Fit lid then leave for 2 weeks before bottling/cask.
There is a Best Bitter Wilko kit alright as well as "real" and "golden". Blue tones on the box?
All good and on offer and the advice is spot on.
Pitch yeast and leave for 14 days. "Double all times on the instuctions" is a good rule of thumb, and ask on here if you are unsure.
All good and on offer and the advice is spot on.
Pitch yeast and leave for 14 days. "Double all times on the instuctions" is a good rule of thumb, and ask on here if you are unsure.
Thats the only beer kit I ever made before going all grain, its not bad at all (not amazing or anything). I replaced half the sugar with honey but I have no idea if it made much difference, there was certainly no honey flavour at the end.
just incase you don't know, if you have the type of fermentation vessel with a solid plastic lid (no hole for a bubbler) when you put the lid on after adding yeast don't click it on tight all the way around, just in one place to stop it been nocked off and leave the rest of the lid loose just resting on top.
Cloudy Beer
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have brewd both real and golden not a bad pint:drunk:
silverlegend
New Member
I understand that yeast needs oxygen to multiply after pitching so I stir my wort vigorously, entraining as much air as I can, for five minutes having sprinkled the yeast.
My local micro brewery use an aquarium air pump to aerate its F. Vs in the early stage of fermentation - a step too far for a mere amateur, stirring works for me.
My local micro brewery use an aquarium air pump to aerate its F. Vs in the early stage of fermentation - a step too far for a mere amateur, stirring works for me.
silverlegend
New Member
Yes, I also used to pour the water from a great height but after one or two accidents, missing the narrow neck (circa 4" diameter) of the F V, and subsequent rollickings from t'other half for flooding the kitchen floor, I found that the stirring method led to less domestic tension.
Using a bucket type F V rather than a screw-topped wine fermenter would obviate the problem, of course.
I should add that the unsteadiness of hand is down to advancing years and not the effect of imbibing previous brews - honest!
Using a bucket type F V rather than a screw-topped wine fermenter would obviate the problem, of course.
I should add that the unsteadiness of hand is down to advancing years and not the effect of imbibing previous brews - honest!
Smileyr8
Impressive Member
Either should get you more alcohol, I would air on brewing short, or/and adding malt (DME) rather than adding sugar. Only my advice others may offer something different (sugar gives very little except alcohol).
Smileyr8
Impressive Member
As a rule of thumb substitute like for like (malt won't give quite the same alcohol % so you could go more) do you have a target % I could perhaps then offer some guidance?
You also need to bear in mind if you add too much malt you will alter the balance and may need more hops.
The kit is 4% abv just want to get a bit more vol from it (I like stronger tastin beers ) , the kit only cost £3.50 so might add 500g malt and 500g sugar just to experiment a little see how it comes out , I going to do this Sunday morning so anyone want to give me dos and donts before they will be welcome thanks for previous advise smiley
Smileyr8
Impressive Member
Based on my rough calculations brewing it to 22ltrs would give you apx 6.1%abv whilst brewing to 20ltrs give you 6.7%abv, I would not expect either of those should overly upset the balance of the kit, good luck.
You will also need to add apx 0.2%apx for priming.
Might be worth taking hydro readings to satisfy yourself.
Smileyr8
Impressive Member
I am not sure 2.5ml per bottle will be enough (depends on the size of the bottles), I tend to batch prime, i.e. syphon off the trub & then add the required priming sugar (dissolved stir in a just enough water) to the syphoned bucket and give a good stir before filling the bottles.
This is also a good thread there is also this Beer Priming Calculator I have used in the past to match priming to beer styles.
This is also a good thread there is also this Beer Priming Calculator I have used in the past to match priming to beer styles.
