Dry Hopping Advice Required

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RobertsIPA

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I am about to brew my first beer that requires dry hopping. All the recipes I've read through state 'a few cones of <insert hop> into the cask'. I have a couple of questions:

1. What weight of hops does 'a few cones' equate to for a 5 gallon cask?
2. The recipe states Styrian Golding (SG) for dry hopping. Is it really worth cracking open a sealed 100g pack of SG, or could I use some of the following instead:
a. Challenger (bittering hop in this brew)
b. Fuggles (bittering hop in this brew)
c. Golding (aroma hop in this brew)
d. Hallertauer Hersbrucker (leftover from Christmas brew)
e. Saaz (leftover from Christmas brew)

And finally on process - I intend racking the wort out of the copper after the boil to cool overnight in a separate vessel to get it off the hops used in the boil. Is this good practice? Or am I just having to clean and sterilise a couple of 25 litre FVs needlessly?

Any thoughts and advice greatly appreciated.
 
First of all cool your wort as quickly as possible! This will give you a cleaner tasting brew!

Then what kind of beer are you making? We cannot give you any advise about the amount of dry hop for a brew if we don't know what kind of beer you're aiming for.
So what will be your recipe. To some grains you can use more hops to win it from the flavour of the grains....
For an IPA i would go 2 grams a liter without a problem. For (non-american) pale ale i would not do 1/2 gram a liter.

So we need a bit more info.
 
DFG,

I am brewing Theakston's Old Peculiar (recipe in Graham Wheeler's 3rd edition).


Struggling to get my wort chilled fast enough. Boiling in a 60L pot on an 8kw gas burner, and the immersion chiller I have is taking hours (and lots of H2O). I typically mash and boil in the evening, allowing the wort to cool and 'big trub' to settle out overnight before pitching yeast when below 26/28degC the following morning.


Drinking - Wadworth old father timer
Conditioning - Christmas Ale
Primary FV - (soon to be...) Theakston's Old Peculiar
 
Imho dry hopping is used to sharpen up the nose of a brew.

I am not a fan of OP but it has always struck me as being a malty residual sugar beer.

For these beers a good strong initial boiled hop bitterness is good to counter balance the sweetness.

Regards
 
Bit of a pet peeve this for me.

I live in the Wessex Water area, and wort chillers on a metered supply are mega expensive.

I also think they are such a waste of such a scarce commodity, even in the UK.

Ice baths are good, bottled water frozen into the brew works, reduce the amount of liquor...full volume boils are a myth.
 
Seems 18g of Fuggles per 25 litre cask is the way forward. Thanks to everyone for their comments.
 
for a 5 gallon batch you could brew to 3 gallons and add ice cold water from the fridge or freezer for the other 2 gallons, I have used ice bought from the supermarket to bring the temp right down as well.
 
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