Old Speckled Chicken

jmh7117 · May 14, 2015

Formulated this on Brewmate free software. Brewed this up Sunday.
Edit- I would not brew this with 80g of challenger 40 would be more palatable!!

1300kg. potters liquid malt extract
908kg H&B liquid malt extract
.300g lyles golden
.500kg dark DME
80g. Challenger @boil, 20g @15
20g east kent goldings @15
20g. East kent goldings @1 min.
Danstar Nottingham Ale Yeast.
5 tablespoons of yeast nutrient

Hydrated the yeast. Pitched at 20 degrees C. This has fermented out already, 4 days!
Going to add some elder flower in the resting FV.

jmh7117 · May 16, 2015

Think I have learned a valuable lesson.

Use hop pellets with caution... Have had a taste of this out of the hydrometer vile and it is far too hoppy for me.

The east kent goldings I used in this recipe were hop pellets. Should have gone with probably 10 to 15g. Not 20.

Slid · May 16, 2015

jmh7117 said:
Think I have learned a valuable lesson.

Use hop pellets with caution... Have had a taste of this out of the hydrometer vile and it is far too hoppy for me.

The east kent goldings I used in this recipe were hop pellets. Should have gone with probably 10 to 15g. Not 20.

Did you really use 80g Challenger in a boil for 60 mins? That could make for a fairly bitter brew by modern tastes.

jmh7117 · May 16, 2015

Slid said:
Did you really use 80g Challenger in a boil for 60 mins? That could make for a fairly bitter brew by modern tastes.

So it was too much challenger?.? The taste at the moment reminds me of Nelsons Revenge. Brewmate gave it an IBU of 80.9.... Yes I have made a mistake!! on the hop schedule I made my entries thinking the value of 1 was equal to 100g, oops.

May have to ditch this one, as I am not a fan of super hoppy/ bitter beers. Unless anyone has a suggestion.

I was planing to make an elderflower tea addition when I move it to rest.

Slid · May 16, 2015

Tou could do a quick brew with hardly any bittering and blend the two, or you could see if the bitterness reduces over time, or you could buy some lemonade and drink shandies.

Don't think I'd go down the shandy route myself, but maybe it's an option for when we get some good weather. :pray:

clibit · May 17, 2015

It will mellow a bit with time. You could mix it with cheap cans of lager or something.

brisboy · May 17, 2015

I'm with slid: brew something with very little bittering and maybe quite a bit of crystal for residual sweetness and blend the two.

Or just leave it as clibit suggested and see if it becomes more drinkable over time.

jmh7117 · May 17, 2015

Thanks guys!
Going down the slid route of blending...
Going to do a 15L batch with 10g golding hop additions at 20min and 5min.
Now I need some extra bottles!!!!
This is going to be a beer juggling act like no other.:lol:

jmh7117 · May 17, 2015

Operation blend and recover started today...
1.5L malt extract.. 1h boil
10g East Kent golding hop pellets at 20min
10g East Kent golding hops pellets at 5min
increased length to 18 litres
yeast harvested from the trub of previous brew pitched at 20 degrees C.

Will be dividing this brew in half, adding in equal measures to Old speckled chicken which has been divided into to 2 fv's. This is to alleviate the mistake I made with the hop schedule on Old speckled chicken. Too much Challenger!!
If this works out will not have to brew again for a while.;-)

Thanks for the input guys.: cheers:

Slid · May 17, 2015

jmh7117 said:
Operation blend and recover started today...
1.5L malt extract.. 1h boil
10g East Kent golding hop pellets at 20min
10g East Kent golding hops pellets at 5min
increased length to 18 litres
yeast harvested from the trub of previous brew pitched at 20 degrees C.

Will be dividing this brew in half, adding in equal measures to Old speckled chicken which has been divided into to 2 fv's. This is to alleviate the mistake I made with the hop schedule on Old speckled chicken. Too much Challenger!!
If this works out will not have to brew again for a while.;-)

Thanks for the input guys.:

Sounds good.

I've not done an extract brew since the Bitter & Mild recipes that appeared in The Homewinemaker and Brewers' Calendar from circa 1980.
Is a full boil necessary with an extract brew? I'd have thought it will have been boiled to death in the spray malting process.

MyQul · May 17, 2015

afaik a full boil isn't necessary just from your first hop addition

jmh7117 · May 17, 2015

Slid said:
Sounds good.

I've not done an extract brew since the Bitter & Mild recipes that appeared in The Homewinemaker and Brewers' Calendar from circa 1980.
Is a full boil necessary with an extract brew? I'd have thought it will have been boiled to death in the spray malting process.

I do an hour for the hop additions....

Slid · May 17, 2015

jmh7117 said:
I do an hour for the hop additions....

That sounds fine. So if the longest you want to boil the hops is 20 mins, you only need a 20 min boil.

"All singing from the same hymnsheet", as they say.

jmh7117 · May 17, 2015

Slid said:
That sounds fine. So if the longest you want to boil the hops is 20 mins, you only need a 20 min boil.

"All singing from the same hymnsheet", as they say.

Roger.

My recovery brew is of and running, yeast is doing it thing already.

A bit apprehensive after the fact. On using the trub from the previously over hopped brew. Should I have re pitched some fresh yeast?

MyQul · May 17, 2015

repitching trub is fine. Only thing is you don't know how much yeast you pitched so the chances are you either over piched or under pitched. How much trub did you pitch?

jmh7117 · May 18, 2015

MyQul said:
repitching trub is fine. Only thing is you don't know how much yeast you pitched so the chances are you either over piched or under pitched. How much trub did you pitch?

Approx 1.5L.
My main concern is: would the yeast have been stressed by the high percentage of hop in previous brew.... But on checking this morning everything looks and smells fine.:pray:

Slid · May 18, 2015

jmh7117 said:
Approx 1.5L.
My main concern is: would the yeast have been stressed by the high percentage of hop in previous brew.... But on checking this morning everything looks and smells fine.:pray:

Could be a slight overpitch at 1.5L, but it's done now. Yeast won't be stressed by the overhopping and I don't know how they react to over crowding. Since I understand that commercial breweries use this approach, I would suggest a racking after 5 days or so (when fermentation is over), followed by an early blend with Mr Hoppy for a further few days in bulk, before bottling.

Any other ideas or observations, anyone?

clibit · May 18, 2015

High hopping doesn't stress yeast. Neither does over-pitching. A lot of home brewers pitch a beer onto the full yeast cake left behind by the previous brew with good results. So it's not a major problem. For a detailed answer that examines why it's best to pitch the right amount, read this, which seems well informed and echoes what i have read elsewhere too:

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=166221

jmh7117 · May 19, 2015

clibit said:
High hopping doesn't stress yeast. Neither does over-pitching. A lot of home brewers pitch a beer onto the full yeast cake left behind by the previous brew with good results. So it's not a major problem. For a detailed answer that examines why it's best to pitch the right amount, read this, which seems well informed and echoes what i have read elsewhere too:

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=166221

Thanks for the info.

Wow 228ml from trub to inoculated 5 gallons.. Lesson learnt.
On a positive I did wash the trub a couple of times.
Have taken a reading today and it is down to 1015 already.

MyQul · May 19, 2015

clibit said:
High hopping doesn't stress yeast. Neither does over-pitching. A lot of home brewers pitch a beer onto the full yeast cake left behind by the previous brew with good results. So it's not a major problem. For a detailed answer that examines why it's best to pitch the right amount, read this, which seems well informed and echoes what i have read elsewhere too:

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=166221

I used to think overpitching wasn't a problem too either, until recently but over pitching can (possibly) cause over attenuation (counter intuitively enough so can under pitching again possibly - I'm basing this on the linked experiment), which of course, will dry out the beer and leave less body it can also cause the beer to be more bitter than you want it to be

Been having some problems with over attenuation recently so have been doing research into it and how to deal with it

Have a look at this pitch rate experiment that has got some very interesting results re: over and under pitching.

http://sciencebrewer.com/2012/03/02/pitching-rate-experiment-part-deux-results/

Deffo agree with you that's its best to pitch the 'right' amount of yeast. I've found a really simple way to wash yeast and now use the mr malty calculator to pitch the correct amount of washed yeast slurry rather than just chucking some trub into my wort like i used too

Old Speckled Chicken

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