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Old 19-11-2017, 09:45 AM   #631
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dumb question probably - but it seems to have 2 power switches, 900 and 2500. What should I use??
2500 is for quickly heating water pre-mash, and for quickly getting up to boil post-mash, though the 1600 setting is probably better for maintaining the boil. The 900 setting is for making small adjustments to the temperature, during the mash for example a little heat is better than cranking it up and burning the grain.
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Old 21-11-2017, 12:34 PM   #632
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Default Ace boiler

I bought one about 6 months ago, only a 12l but, so far it's been very good. SS quality is excellent
Thermostatic control works perfectly to keep sparge water at 77 degrees.
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Old 21-11-2017, 01:57 PM   #633
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Try these:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B01...ap+30+x+19+x+3




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The washers linked above are abetter quality version of the ones that come with the boiler. Well worth having on hand. Cheers.
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Old 04-12-2017, 02:48 PM   #634
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Very stupidly threw away the false bottom with the grains! Gutted! Anyway i need some ideas for a replacement and i will also need one for my buffalo boiler as well. Cheers.
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Old 04-12-2017, 05:40 PM   #635
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Hi!
Perforated stainless steel £27, expensive and you need to have it cut into a circle, probably not a DIY job. http://metaloffcuts.co.uk/shop/stain...erf-sheet.html
Stainless steel mesh is available on eBay but it doesn't seem to come wider than 300mm.
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Old 04-12-2017, 06:06 PM   #636
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I had a similarly expensive quote from the ACE suppliers and decided to use it as an excuse to buy another of the (earlier) £99 ACEs as an HLT. Not a bad price for a replacement false bottom and HLT.


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Old 04-12-2017, 07:00 PM   #637
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Thanks for the link Col. They do a 20" square bit for £26, Thats 304 stainless which i presume is the one. How could it be cut? Would it need a torch? My mate has a garage so i could ask him.
Don your right they are cheap but none in stock. I already have a 40l though so that may end up as the mashtun, the ace a hlt and get a 70l pot. Anyway i could of done without that, i got sidetracked and forgot to take it out of the bin bag.
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Old 04-12-2017, 08:17 PM   #638
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Hi BeerCat,
There seem to be plenty of homebrewers using aluminium false bottoms. Perforated aluminium is easy to cut - I used it in my control box build. However, it isn't any cheaper than ss. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2mm-Hole-...xZ4_euwpFUO6Xw
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Old 05-12-2017, 12:02 AM   #639
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Hi BeerCat,
There seem to be plenty of homebrewers using aluminium false bottoms. Perforated aluminium is easy to cut - I used it in my control box build. However, it isn't any cheaper than ss. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2mm-Hole-...xZ4_euwpFUO6Xw
Nice one Colin. I reckon i could get away with 300 x 400 and cut it with a hacksaw or maybe get a dremmel. A piece siphon tube around the outside might work and half a dozen large bolts to stand it on.
Just came across this even cheaper stuff https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2mm-Hole-....c100005.m1851

This sounds a bit carry on but could someone measure their false bottom for me, and the hole size?
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Old 05-12-2017, 06:31 AM   #640
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Hi BeerCat,
The ACE false bottom is 280mm diameter, so you will get one from a 300x300 sheet. The holes are 2mm on a 4mm pitch, so very close to the aluminium. The legs are 70mm tall, but that's not so critical. If I were making a false bottom I would add a leg in the centre - wet grain weighs a lot.
The aluminium cuts easy enough with a hacksaw; I would try it with a jigsaw fitted with a fine metal blade.
One further tip - don't throw the baby out with the bath water
PS One US site says this about aluminium pans for boiling wort:
"Simply boiling a batch of wort will not remove enough metal from your aluminum pot to get into your beer and cause metallic off flavours, particularly if you build up a passive oxide layer inside the pot first. For new pots, this is easily achieved by either boiling the pot full of water for 30 mins to one hour, or by putting it in your oven for 10 mins at 350 F."
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