I've got a pale ale on the go it's been in fv for 10 days now the sg reading was 1.039, i checked reading yesterday and it was 1.006 thought that was ok but through the night it seems to have started fermenting again there is activity on air lock. Only thing I did was poured contents of trial jar back into fv don't know if this is ok ?
sg and fg readings
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Redron
Regular.
Pouring the trial jar contents back in is generally not good practice as you can introduce bacterial infections from your mouth or from an unclean trial jar. That said, beer is quite hard to kill so you would be a bit unlucky if it messed your beer up.
The trial jar is used so you don't have to just drop your hydrometer into your and beer risk infecting it that way.
Besides, I, and I suspect many others on here, like to test their beer periodically and enjoy 'testing ' the contents of the jar....
I would leave it a couple of days and test again. If it is still at 1006 I would bottle or keg. It won't do any harm whatsoever to leave it in the FV for a few more days .
The trial jar is used so you don't have to just drop your hydrometer into your and beer risk infecting it that way.
Besides, I, and I suspect many others on here, like to test their beer periodically and enjoy 'testing ' the contents of the jar....
I would leave it a couple of days and test again. If it is still at 1006 I would bottle or keg. It won't do any harm whatsoever to leave it in the FV for a few more days .
timcunnell
Regular.
You're at around 4.3% ABV with those reading so it looks like you've done well. But what was the expected ABV? And do you know what type of yeast you used? (not always specified with a kit).
As Redron says, I would def leave it for a few more days. But take another reading in a day or two and see if that 1.006 has dropped further. Although that is low anyway so I'd be surprised if it goes much lower than that.
Good luck!
As Redron says, I would def leave it for a few more days. But take another reading in a day or two and see if that 1.006 has dropped further. Although that is low anyway so I'd be surprised if it goes much lower than that.
Good luck!
timcunnell
Regular.
Which Cooper's kit is it? I'm currently drinking a Cooper's Aussie Lager and its amazing!
It's hard to say why activity may have started back up to be honest. Airlock's aren't always a great indication of what's going on. Or at least, if it is bubbling then gas is definitely coming off. But not bubbling doesn't necessarily mean not fermenting. It's possible the CO2 could have been finding another way out of the FV for a bit.
The SG is definitely the best way of knowing if your brew is still fermenting, or if it has stopped. But while you're getting bubbles I'd def leave it a few more days.
I've never had a Coopers kit go that low, mine usually end up at 1010-1012 but not sure what fermentables you added, or which Coopers kit you used.
Maybe taking a sample and then popping it back in to the FV has roused things a bit and caused a bit of yeast activity but it will stay at 1006.
I would leave it until the weekend then take another hydro reading, if its still at 1006 and the wort looks normal I would rack it ready for bottling. If its gone much lower than 1006 I would post back here as that could indicate something may be amiss.
Maybe taking a sample and then popping it back in to the FV has roused things a bit and caused a bit of yeast activity but it will stay at 1006.
I would leave it until the weekend then take another hydro reading, if its still at 1006 and the wort looks normal I would rack it ready for bottling. If its gone much lower than 1006 I would post back here as that could indicate something may be amiss.
To work out the ABV % you mean ?
I use: Starting Gravity - Final Gravity x 129
You need the decimal point in the gravity readings so yours would be:
1.039 - 1.006 = 0.033 x 129 = 4.3% ABV.
The priming sugar adds a bit more so your finished bottled brew will be approx. 4.5% give or take.
Assumes your doesn't go any lower. Good luck with it.
timcunnell
Regular.
I've brewed the Cooper's Australian Lager, which I am now down to my last few bottles of. That really is very good! Benefits from a low fermentation temp (19 or so) and also worth using 1kg of beer enhancer rather than sugar.
I think it's commonly said that the Cooper's Stout is the most bomb-proof kit known to man. If you want sure-fire success then that's your kit!
I think it's commonly said that the Cooper's Stout is the most bomb-proof kit known to man. If you want sure-fire success then that's your kit!
I found most of the Coopers kits were similar - so the Canadian Blonde, the Lager, the Pale Ale etc. Not saying they are bad but I found they were great as a base and could be improved greatly by pimping them up with some additions, for example dry hopping the Canadian Blonde with 25g of Cascade hop pellets produced a super pale ale.
The English bitter kit was great (quite bitter and hoppy for some tastes), and the Stout kit is also a firm favourite on the forums - if you like bitter or stout well worth a go.
The Coopers kits also benefit greatly, like most one can kits, by using a mix of light DME and brew sugar rather than just brew sugar. For example use 500g light DME and 500g of brew sugar rather than just 1kg of brew sugar with the kit. Beer Enhancer is a mix of DME and brew sugar.
The Coopers kits are also a brilliant base for moving to partial mashing which is how my journey to all grain BIAB started - partial mashing grains with a one can kit produces a far superior brew to just mixing standard kits - if you have the time. This thread is worth a read:
http://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=55390
The English bitter kit was great (quite bitter and hoppy for some tastes), and the Stout kit is also a firm favourite on the forums - if you like bitter or stout well worth a go.
The Coopers kits also benefit greatly, like most one can kits, by using a mix of light DME and brew sugar rather than just brew sugar. For example use 500g light DME and 500g of brew sugar rather than just 1kg of brew sugar with the kit. Beer Enhancer is a mix of DME and brew sugar.
The Coopers kits are also a brilliant base for moving to partial mashing which is how my journey to all grain BIAB started - partial mashing grains with a one can kit produces a far superior brew to just mixing standard kits - if you have the time. This thread is worth a read:
http://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=55390
I used a wine smuggler glass tube to take a sample for sg reading is that ok?
timcunnell
Regular.
Yes, you pop the pellets in 4 days before bottling after the fermentation is complete. It makes racking out or bottling easier if you pop the hops in a muslin bag so they are contained and not floating loose within your wort.
Plenty of advice about dry hopping on here, make sure you boil the muslin bag/drawstring to sterilise before using it in your wort to avoid any risk of infection.
Well I've done another hydro reading and it still 1.006
