No Chill Question

Hello,

New to BIAB and would like to try no chill due to not wanting to waist water and time.
A lot of the recipes that I'm looking at (Greg Hughes) call for hops at flame out 80c, which I take out when ive chilled the wort.
What do I do with no chill? would 24hrs be to long with that hop addition?
I see a lot of guys no chilling on youtube but no mention of this.

Cheers
John

I'm a no chiller too. The thing I've found with no chill is becuase your leaving the wort to cool for several hours a lot if not all of the hop flavour/aroma disapears in the steam as the wort cools.
The way I've got around this is as follows. What I call the "micro boil" as I've never heard it given a name before:
1. Add your bittering hops as normal at 60/90 mins
2. Chill wort over several hours
3. When cool remove 3L of wort and put into a pot (at least 5L) heat to boiling then add your late additions. So say you have a 10 min, 5 min and 0 min addition. put the 10 min addition in as soom as the wort comes to the boil. Add the 5 min addition 5 min later. Then for the 0 min addition put the pot in a sink full of cold water till it reaches below 80C and add 0min hops and leave for 20 min. Then put chill the wort in more sink fulls of water till it reaches pitching temp.
4. Add the 3L back to the main body of wort pouring it through a seive to strain out the hop debris.
5. Pitch yeast

Cool thanks,

So you don't use a cube? Just let it chill in the FV with the lid on or off?
I was thinking about going down the cube route, would that affect the hop aromas?

Yes I do use a cube of sorts. I transfer from my pot to my old coopers FV. I then cover the top with star san-ed cling film. I star san he cling film as the stream from the wort condenses on it and drips back into the wort. It's probably fine but being a belt and braces man, I sanises it just to make sure.

Because I do the micro boil after cubing and before pitching there's no effect on aromas as the aroma hops go into the wort after I (no) chill

Add those hops to the cube IMO, I just calculate them as 20min additions (for approx IBUs). Anything less than a 10min addition goes straight into the cube for me. I've been doing it for about 5 years now with excellent results.. such a good combination of flavour and aroma from the hops when cube hopping.

The mini-boil also works quite well and have done this a few times, but for the ease of just adding them to the cube, it's such a simple solution that works very well.

Top advise thanks, ive plenty of brews lined up so ill try both methods and see what works best for me...

In addition to the above, I've heard a few people comment on loss of aroma and flavour when (no) chilling in the FV (such as MyQul), in which case a mini-boil would be recommended.

If you're using an actual cube to no chill, then a lot of that flavour and aroma is 'trapped' (for lack of a better term) inside the cube giving a real nice hop presence in the finished beer.

Starsan wont kill off all wild yeasts only bacteria, we rely on the population size of the pitched yeast (a billion or more cells )to out eat/grow and starve out any wild yeasts that fall in during the brewing.

this is new news to me regarding starsans effectiveness against wild yeasts, im only catching up on the subject and repeating the collective wisdom that has evolved..

However it seems a more effective no rinse sanitiser with a broader range of microlife death dealing is PAA, PERACETIC ACID
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5-LITRE-P...-FOOD-MACHINERY-PLANT-SANITISER-/201389774939

How much
of the product
to add
Small items can be left to soak overnight in a steeping tank using Peracetic Acid 5%
diluted, 3-10mls PAA per litre of water.
Beer mains and hoses may be filled after cleaning with a
diluted solution of PAA, 3-5mls PAA per litre of water
and left for several hours before draining off.
Large vessels and plant are best treated by spray-ball using a dilute solution of
PAA, 10-20ml in a litre of water.
Alternatively a fog gun may be used but particular attention must be paid to safety
precautions if a fog spray is used, to avoid eye or skin contact or inhalation

Click to expand...

Its much nastier stuff than starsan to handle so gloves eyeglasses etc and if spraying into the air a mask too..
especially the neat stuff.

Also when storing the neat stuff it needs a vented cap as it will give off small ammounts of aceatic acid or vinegar and if left sealed will balloon the bottle.

I dont think this is a case of binning starsan and using PAA instead for most brewers as all we generally need is an anti bacterial sanitiser as bacteria will destroy a beer much faster than a wild yeast can establish itself under normal conditions.

Im sure MyQul aboves starsan-ed cling film is also getting a good pasteurisation from the rising steam too

However folk relying of starsan as more than an antibacterial sanitiser may wish to read up on the subject a bit more, I dont think im allowed to post links to other forums in here but its discussed by chaps who know more than i do over on some us brewsites and on Jims.. .

I will continue to use starsan as a pre use no rinse sanitiser, but may consider PAA or reverting back to videne for any yeast culturing work for articles that cant ne pressure cooker 'autoclaved' or flamed like work surfaces..

Fil said:

Im sure MyQul aboves starsan-ed cling film is also getting a good pasteurisation from the rising steam too

Click to expand...

Didn't think of that :thumb:

I'm so cautious when it comes to sanitsing I even star san the no-chill cube prior to chucking my near boiling wort in there :lol:

Can I just ask a quick question on no chill "cubes". Is an actual "cube" just a plastic jerry can type of thing which is sealed with the hot wort inside and left for a day to cool down?

Like this type of thing?

@Notlaw . Yes, 'cept I use an old coopers FV as a cube

Could I just put the coopers FV lid on with a air lock till cool ??

Cqr said:

Could I just put the coopers FV lid on with a air lock till cool ??

Click to expand...

Yes. Thats what I do. Although I cover the FV with cling film because as the wort cool it contracts and sucks air into the FV as it does so along with possible nasties. Plenty of people just stick the lid on no probs, but I'm cautious

I've started putting my aroma additions into the cube. I put the hops in first then let the wort cool to 80 degrees and pour it on top, put the lid on give it a shake and leave it to cool overnight.
I pour it through a sieve into the FV.
I used to turn my burner off then chuck the hops in, let it cool to 80 then put it in the cube. It just didn't seem like there was enough contact with the wort, I felt like I was wasting hops.
I can definitely smell and taste the improvement in my beer.