How to set this up?

Anyone got an idea how I'd set this up to a corny keg?

In my tiny shed I just want to install this until I get a whole t bar sorted.

Do I connect the silver pipe to the beer out on the corny?

What are the black pipes?

Taken it apart at the tap part and polished some blemishes out and checked prints and washers.

This one forest have the beveled washer than helps it pivot, are they still in use?

I've got 3/8 beer line.

Also while I'm making a thread any advice and/or links to decent 3+ faucets & taps.

Preferably stainless can't be bothered with the chrome plated stuff.

Thanks.


EDIT FORGOT PICTURES.

If you have two black pipes then they are probably cooling pipes.
The single opaque line is probably the beer line, you should be able to check by opening the tap and blowing through.
Difficult to tell but it looks like 3/16 line (possible 5/16), you can get a JG reducer to go from 3/8 to 3/16. To avoid froth yo may need to add some extra 3/16 line.

Thanks. Used to bloody work in a bar ha wondered if it was the cooling lines but only thought they might be on. Now you've said it makes sense to have 2 [emoji14]

Ordering the parts now. Thanks a lot.

strip it down and remove the tap, and bin all the beerline that is currently plumbed up. soak clean everything before sanitising and resembling.

fit new line directly to the tap, once connected to the keg the tap is the stop for the sealed system behind it any bacterial infestation in the beerline fitted will have access to the whole keg of beer....

Dont force anything to remove it, the base and perhaps the font top should strip off, the rear of the tap will have either a barbed or JG fitting for the beerline, due to the orientation if a JG fitting it may also have a stem 90 dergee fitting inserted too to accept a beerline fed up the font, if so you may need to work that out with a couple of long screwdrivers before the tap will exit.. i found out the hard way when stripping a 4tap font about that gotcha, only after ripping out a the jg fitting integral to the first tap i used force to pull out

Fil said:

strip it down and remove the tap, and bin all the beerline that is currently plumbed up. soak clean everything before sanitising and resembling.

fit new line directly to the tap, once connected to the keg the tap is the stop for the sealed system behind it any bacterial infestation in the beerline fitted will have access to the whole keg of beer....

Dont force anything to remove it, the base and perhaps the font top should strip off, the rear of the tap will have either a barbed or JG fitting for the beerline, due to the orientation if a JG fitting it may also have a stem 90 dergee fitting inserted too to accept a beerline fed up the font, if so you may need to work that out with a couple of long screwdrivers before the tap will exit.. i found out the hard way when stripping a 4tap font about that gotcha, only after ripping out a the jg fitting integral to the first tap i used force to pull out

Click to expand...

I have a feeling that doesn't come off

I have cleaned and sanitised all the inside using a cask widge brush and line cleaning brush.

So what's the next step?

Good job stipping down..
If your happy its clean then reassemble

Thats not a tap connection type/style i have encountered before??

Is it possible to push the line and its terminating plate all the way through the barrel that connects it to the tap shank and take a few mor pics?

I would be tempted to boil clean the tubing, it looks like metal?? I cant imagine SS tube to be as malleable as that looks tho??
And ive not seen that with ldpe beerline before (tho i bet there is lots ive not seen), if synthetic i would snip a bit off for a boil test first.

As advised above JG speed fit fittings are available in all the standard beerline OD sizes 3/16" 5/16" and 3/8" and make the plumbing up to a keg a breeze.

it does look like 3/16" line attached to the tap, which is a useful size to us home keggers to simply reduce the keg pressure to a nominal level at the tap release point. generally a length of 4-5ft of 3/16 line will let you serve most beers with out a foam out due to a too high a pressure difference at release.

Get a keg of beer ready at the perfect temp and pressure for its style,
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&r...=xbA22cKg6g1riDhoRe225w&bvm=bv.58187178,d.ZG4

and pour yourself a well deserved pint

In my opinion a home keg setup unlike a bar setup does not require weekly line cleaning as long as you maintain a rigid cleaning/sanitation routine between kegs. A bar can change kegs frequently between line cleanings, a home keg will generally get attached and used till drained, So as long as it was clean and sanitised when connected being a closed system it should remain clean and sanitised. So the beerline plumbing can simply be cleaned and sanitised as part of the cleaning and sanitation of the used keg. filling the line from the keg with cleaning solution and then rinsing, and sanitising all from the keg again

Thanks here are more pictures.


Inner sleeve diameter.


Outer




I'm hoping to have some items received today but I still don't have a co2 canister and regulator. Unsure about which one I'm using / need.

Need to go get some beer line as I got 3/8 beer line. Doh.

So it is a Stainless steel tube tail?? boil the feck out of it :)

whats its OD? be mindful the tube deforms off circular when bent, so a jg fitting may struggle sealing onto it if its deformed, patience and a plumbers spin round tube cutter will cut a clean edge if you need to find tube not deformed to attach to??

its an interesting tap n tail that

with corny kegs with a built in PRV a basic welders regulator with an easy twist knob is perfect for a primary regulator, cheaper and easier to set than a traditional pub style reg, and as each corny has its own prv you dont need one on the regulator itself.. If using sankey style kegs then US style couplers with a prv built in will allow you to use a basic regulator, otherwise bleeding off pressure becomes a minor pita..

all regulators suffer the same problem to a degree and that is the granularity of the output dial is limited by the maximum output reading. so each grade on the dial can represent 2-5psi depending on the regulator, as we tend to want to tune in pressures between 4-15psi for serving a gradient going up in 5psi steps isnt much fun to use, so look for one with 2 psi gradients..

you can always buy a 2nd gauge which covers a narrower band of pressures say upto 40psi which you can fit inline after the regulator with a T or Y fitting to branch off for a clearer reading to set serving pressures..

OD looks like 3/16


Looks like I'm getting a regulator today then I appreciate the help.

Circa 9mm is about 3/8".. when fitting with a jg ftting and beerline, make sure the SS/ldpe connection isnt any sideways strain, strictly speaking the JG fittings we use are not intended for matting with hard tubes like SS but while they do work they are more suceptable to sheering forces as they do not bite into hard tube like they do soft copper or ldpe.

you can buy special JG hard tube fittings labelled/branded 'superseal' iirc which need twisting up tight to form a seal.

3/16" line is referred to as micro line, the bore or inside diameter is nominally bigger than 1mm or so

this ebay pic demonstrates the difference between 3/8" and 3/16" line

I bought everything however the 3/16 beer line connector won't fit in my tap faucet. It's too small.

And also which jg fitting to I need for the regulator? It's bigger (on the regulator) than the one i had spare for the quick disconnects.

Going to have to use some flexible grade tubing to get a connection to my faucet.

But stumped with the regulator.

gl0ckage said:

OD looks like 3/16

Click to expand...

9.5mm is just about 3/8" and going by the pic above its 3/8" ss tube coming off your tap?

you should be able to fit a 3/8" JG fitting over it as long as its not deformed.
if it is then a plumbers variable pipe cutter is the tool to make a neat cut, pick a straight circular spot to cut if neccessary AND do go slow it will take significantly more working than a copper tube, and dont wind up too tight to fast


on the regulator i suspect the out has a 3/8" bsp thread..
this wikipedia page has a very useful chart listing OD and ID for bsp threads and it has metric dimensions
only one i know off by heart is 1/2" bsp which requires a hole 20-21mm to clear
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/British_Standard_Pipe
the 3/8" gas/beerline we use has a 1/4" Inside Diameter so a 3/8" bsp to 1/4"barbed hosetail fitting should screw onto your reg and the beerline should slide on with a mug of hot water n coaxing and can be secured with a jubilee clip.


im sure your aware but BSP pipe and their fittings sizes do not correspond to their outside diameter.
...... so you regulators fitting if 3/8" bsp will be about 1.5-2x the diameter of your 3/8" gas line which is identified by its outside diameter measurement..