New England IPA

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Zephyr259

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Hi folks,

Looking for some advice on a new-england style IPA, mostly on the hop front.

I have 100g in leaf of Galaxy (13.7%), Amarillo (8.5%) and Cascade (7.4%).

I know the style should be heavy on the late additions, but what kinda IBUs should I aim for? Around 1:1 IBU:OG? I'm looking for something juicy and flavoursome but not too bitter.

Thanks.
 
I like a lot of hop flavour but not to bitter. I now aim for about 45 IBUs in my IPAs.

I'm usually using fairly high AA hops and have found that to be able to pack more hops in without going too bitter I have dropped dedicated bittering additions altogether. I now boil for an hour but only start adding hops for the last 20 mins at 5 min intervals increasing the amount of hops at each addition. So additions at 20, 15, 10, 5, 0 and dry hop. I normally do equal amounts of each hop.
 
I think mike's advice is spot on. I would also suggest that an English yeast rather than the usual wlp001/us-05 would be necessary for this style, Wyeast 1318 is very popular. An addition of flaked oats really helps with the look and mouthfeel of this type of beer too, and of course a huge dry hop.
 
Thanks for the help! Mike, did you post a similar hop schedule somewhere recently? Seem to recall reading that but can't find it now. What OG do you aim for to balance the 45 IBUs?

Strange-Steve: I've got some Winsor yeast for this, as I'm still working on small batches I can't really justify getting a liquid yeast which costs as much as the rest of the ingredients. If this is a success I'll likely scale up when I have the kit and use Wyeast 1318 at that time. Thanks for the recommendation, I've come across that suggested in articles but nice to hear it from a fellow forumite. I was thinking of adding around 10% malted wheat (which left my ESB pretty hazy) and some porridge oats for the mouthfeel. Is some crystal needed for this style? I also have Victory but the toasty flavour might clash with the fruit.
 
I think the last recipes that I posted still had dedicated bittering charges. When I get home I'll dig out something more recent and post it.

I typically go for an sg of 1.050. I think the IBU calculators take the sg into consideration so 45 ibus is 45 ibus regardless but you'll need to add more hops to get there with a higher starting gravity. I may be wrong.
 
My last ipa has more hop haze than I intended (wasn't intending any...)

I used
30g of Colombus for bittering at 60mins
15g of galaxy and 15g of summit at 10mins
15g of galaxy and 15g of summit at 5mins
20g of galaxy and 20g of summit at flameout/with a 20min whirlpool (me stirring).

I gave it a 50g galaxy and 50g summit dry hop 3days before bottling.

20160923_173202.jpg
 
My last ipa has more hop haze than I intended (wasn't intending any...)

I used
30g of Colombus for bittering at 60mins
15g of galaxy and 15g of summit at 10mins
15g of galaxy and 15g of summit at 5mins
20g of galaxy and 20g of summit at flameout/with a 20min whirlpool (me stirring).

I gave it a 50g galaxy and 50g summit dry hop 3days before bottling.

Did you also dry hop with an orange highlighter pen? That is some colour (in a good way)!
 
That's a nice looking beer wfr, what was the grain bill?

Thanks Mike, when I mentioned the OG:IBU ratio I was meaning that the bigger the beer the more hops you need to balance. 45 IBUs is always the same but will likely be perceived differently in a low gravity pale ale and a barleywine. Shooting for 1.050 is also what I was thinking of before actually doing any maths.
 
That's a nice looking beer wfr, what was the grain bill?

Thanks Mike, when I mentioned the OG:IBU ratio I was meaning that the bigger the beer the more hops you need to balance. 45 IBUs is always the same but will likely be perceived differently in a low gravity pale ale and a barleywine. Shooting for 1.050 is also what I was thinking of before actually doing any maths.


I used 4.65kg of vienna malt* and 0.35kg of caramalt (think I used the geterbrewed custom kit build) and the above hops
*which gives it its colour when held up to the light.
 
Here is a recent one i did. It was 25l rather than 23. Think the og was 1.046.

3kg Pilsner
1.5 kg Vienna



7g Simcoe (12.2%AA) 20 mins
7g Chinook (13%AA) 20 mins
7g Mosaic (11.82%AA) 20 mins
7g Simcoe (12.2%AA) 15 mins
7g Chinook (13%AA) 15 mins
7g Mosaic (11.82%AA) 15 mins
9g Simcoe (12.2%AA) 10 mins
9g Chinook (13%AA) 10 mins
9g Mosaic (11.82%AA) 10 mins
10g Simcoe (12.2%AA) 5 mins
10g Chinook (13%AA) 5 mins
10g Mosaic (11.82%AA) 5 mins
15g Simcoe (12.2%AA) 0 mins
15g Chinook (13%AA) 0 mins
15g Mosaic (11.82%AA) 0 mins

WLP090

dry hop 3x 40g end of fermentation
 
the most famous New England IPA, Heady Topper, is said to be over 100 IBU but it's apparent smooth bitterness is said to be in part down to their use of CO2 hop extract as the only bittering charge. I know Cloudwater used the same technique for their DIPA v3. there are many other breweries doing the same. I believe malt miller stocks CO2 hop extract. you may also be able to achieve similar effects with first wort hopping.

you should also have a look at this: http://www.mrmalty.com/late_hopping.php

I've used this in a few beers now to great effect. essentially all hops added no earlier than 20 mins from flame out. you use a lot more hops so it's more expensive to produce but the results I've had have been great. loads of juicy hop flavour and smooth bitterness.
 
the most famous New England IPA, Heady Topper, is said to be over 100 IBU but it's apparent smooth bitterness is said to be in part down to their use of CO2 hop extract as the only bittering charge. I know Cloudwater used the same technique for their DIPA v3. there are many other breweries doing the same. I believe malt miller stocks CO2 hop extract. you may also be able to achieve similar effects with first wort hopping.

you should also have a look at this: http://www.mrmalty.com/late_hopping.php

I've used this in a few beers now to great effect. essentially all hops added no earlier than 20 mins from flame out. you use a lot more hops so it's more expensive to produce but the results I've had have been great. loads of juicy hop flavour and smooth bitterness.

just noticed mike77 has suggested the same in his recipe.
 
Well it's been a month and I finally got time to brew. Mash went well, holding the temp perfectly for an hour. After 4 brews I finally hit my target volume, mostly because I saw it was low and added some water from the kettle towards the end of the boil.

Wort tasted pretty good, sweet and bitter with a lot of hip flavour so should be right on the mark.

In the demijohns now with yeast pitched (danstar Windsor) just hope it not too cold in the house for the yeast.

I normally leave my brews in the primary for 2 weeks then bottle it. But I want to dry hop this one so any advice on how and when to do that?

Thanks
 
I usually do about 5 days before kegging

If I'm harvesting yeast I do it in a secondary fermenter if not just straight in the primary. Whole hops I put in a muslin bag and weight them down. Hop pellets I just chuck straight in.
 
I had a go at a NE IPA yesterday. 75% golden promise, 5% wheat malt and 20% flaked oats. 30g warrior at the start of the boil and then 60g citra and 60g mosaic at flameout. Pitched Wyeast 1318 and going to ferment at about 16/17oC. Will dry hop with another 60g citra and 60g mosaic.
 
Wow that's a lot of oats, I went 75% Maris Otter, 10% each crystal and wheat, 5% oats.

Both djs are bubbling away nicely now.
 
I had a go at a NE IPA yesterday. 75% golden promise, 5% wheat malt and 20% flaked oats. 30g warrior at the start of the boil and then 60g citra and 60g mosaic at flameout. Pitched Wyeast 1318 and going to ferment at about 16/17oC. Will dry hop with another 60g citra and 60g mosaic.

A lot of hops 😱
 

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