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Old 28-10-2016, 05:22 AM   #11
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Great guide again Terry.
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Old 28-10-2016, 01:40 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by wfr42 View Post
I have found that letting my fv float as I siphon to my bottling bucket is a great trub/yeast filter - in fact I ve ditched my racking kane with trub filter for the last two bottling days.

I put my trug and fv out to the shed to cold crash for 24hrs before bottling.
Keeping a hand (and eye) on the fv as I siphon to my bottling bucket the far end slowly floats up and the the beer flows to the near side quicker then the yeast cake, helping maximise the amount of beer iget into my bottling bucket
Do you know where your syphon tap came from.I can only find the little ones.
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Old 29-10-2016, 06:23 AM   #13
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http://www.brewstore.co.uk/microbrewery-kit-ipa-starter

My LHBS and one of these starter kits.

It looks like the sell them individually http://www.brewstore.co.uk/small-tap-for-siphon
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Old 29-10-2016, 08:52 AM   #14
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Great posting, I did this for the first time last winter and it made an incredible difference to my brews - a real consistent ferment right down to 1010 in most cases. I now almost prefer brewing in winter rather than summer fluctuating room temps, in fact I now stop brewing June-Aug.
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Old 29-10-2016, 09:04 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wfr42 View Post
http://www.brewstore.co.uk/microbrewery-kit-ipa-starter

My LHBS and one of these starter kits.

It looks like the sell them individually http://www.brewstore.co.uk/small-tap-for-siphon
Thanks but I bet that's a small tap.yours looks about 10mm.
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Old 29-10-2016, 11:32 AM   #16
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Good guide Terry. I started out using this method and while I now have a fermentation fridge I still use the water bath when I have more than one brew on the go.
The water does get a bit murky after a while and someone on here suggested using a little Starsan in the water to counteract this. I tried the Starsan and it did help but I found it corroded the metal handle on the fermentor. I'm not sure whether bleach would have the same effect, have you tried it?
starsan wont affect any wild yeast in the water tho....
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Old 29-10-2016, 11:38 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by terrym View Post
Fermenting Ale yeasts prefer a steady temperature to do their job properly, usually in the range 18-21*C. This method describes setting up a simple, cheap and effective water bath in which to place your FV, which can be used in the colder months of the year to give a consistent temperature for your brew. However if your FV has a bottom tap it is not recommended.


[/B]
this looks awesome, i never thought about doing something like this tbh so thank you very much - i imagine its alot more economical to run then a fridge dedicated to a keg !
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Old 29-10-2016, 03:47 PM   #18
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I've just put mine into service again now the house temps have dropped after the summer - brewed an AG beer last Sunday, airlock stopped bubbling a day ago so dropped the hydrometer in today (Sat) and it's down to 1010 already. I'm sure that consistency is down to temp control.
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Old 29-10-2016, 04:01 PM   #19
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Great Guide Terry. I know I'll be directing members here in the coming months when we get the normal 'My brew is too cold'
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Old 17-11-2016, 05:30 PM   #20
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Great Guide Terry. I know I'll be directing members here in the coming months when we get the normal 'My brew is too cold'
I echo the comments about Terry's water bath set up. A great idea that I have used for my first batch from a microbrewery kit. That said, my own problem was not keeping the wort warm, but keeping it cool enough for fermentation. In a spare bedroom with radiators turned almost off, the ambient temperature remained doggedly at 22C inspite of it being mid November. In the end I moved the whole set up - water bath and FV - into the garage and sat inside an old sleeping bag. Temperatures are now in 18-20C range I need.
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