Priming sugar questions.

shop deals on amazon
Advertise with us
Shop deals on ebay
The Homebrew Forum

Help Support The Homebrew Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
RexBanner

RexBanner

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2016
Messages
100
Reaction score
29
Location
NULL
Eyup all.
So last night i batch primed 23L of bitter while in the FV.
I used brewing sugar, however i spread sugar i to the batch and stirred it in. Rather than stiring it into water and pouring it in.

Should this still carbonate over the next few weeks?
 
RexBanner said:
Eyup all.
So last night i batch primed 23L of bitter while in the FV.
I used brewing sugar, however i spread sugar i to the batch and stirred it in. Rather than stiring it into water and pouring it in.

Should this still carbonate over the next few weeks?
Click to expand...

How much did you use out of interest ?
 
RexBanner said:
i spread sugar i to the batch and stirred it in. Rather than stiring it into water and pouring it in.

Should this still carbonate over the next few weeks?
Click to expand...

It should be fine , but be aware that your bottles might not carbonate evenly. Some might be a little more fizzy than others.

Another downside is that your chosen method requires more mixing, which can potentially add unwanted oxygen to the beer, as well as knocking some of the existing C02 out of solution. Priming sugar calcs are based on an assumed number of volumes of C02 already in the beer, so you may also end up with a lower level of carbonation than intended.

A better method would be to rack your beer from the fermentor onto the sugar solution, into a bottling bucket, taking care not to splash. Remember when making your sugar solution, boil and allow to cool before mixing it in.


There's nothing wrong with the way you did it, and your beer will likely be fine. You may find that you have problems with consistency, that's all.
 
If you packaged your beer soon after batch priming then it will be OK.
Your biggest problem imo is that you have probably stirred up the yeast at the bottom of the FV possibly undoing the last few days of settlement, and this will have carried over into your bottles/PB etc.
 
terrym said:
If you packaged your beer soon after batch priming then it will be OK.
Your biggest problem imo is that you have probably stirred up the yeast at the bottom of the FV possibly undoing the last few days of settlement, and this will have carried over into your bottles/PB etc.
Click to expand...

To be honest every bottle looked ok except for the last 3, they looked extremely sedimenty (is that even a word?). The responses ive had give me some optomism though :)
 
RexBanner said:
To be honest every bottle looked ok except for the last 3, they looked extremely sedimenty (is that even a word?). The responses ive had give me some optomism though :)
Click to expand...

Next time use a bit of muslin cloth/bag to filter it, I haven't done this yet but plan to!

I was thinking about getting the white cloths that have the red edges and boiling them for about 10 mins ( to steralise and to remove and ink\dye that could bleed from the fabric) and then cover 1 end of the syphon so as to hold back the smeg!
 
Personal91 said:
Next time use a bit of muslin cloth/bag to filter it, I haven't done this yet but plan to!



I was thinking about getting the white cloths that have the red edges and boiling them for about 10 mins ( to steralise and to remove and ink\dye that could bleed from the fabric) and then cover 1 end of the syphon so as to hold back the smeg!
Click to expand...



You definitely do not want smeg in your brew. :lol:


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Personal91 said:
Next time use a bit of muslin cloth/bag to filter it, I haven't done this yet but plan to!

I was thinking about getting the white cloths that have the red edges and boiling them for about 10 mins ( to steralise and to remove and ink\dye that could bleed from the fabric) and then cover 1 end of the syphon so as to hold back the smeg!
Click to expand...
I wouldn't have thought muslin would be any good at filtering out yeast cells which individually are low micron size. The holes in muslin are relatively coarse, although you might be lucky and filter out a plug of yeast . Muslin is however good for retaining hop particles from disintegrated pellets.
 
Skip the muslin. Just cold crash for 24hrs before bottling day, transfer from FV to bottling bucket and prime. A bottling bucket with a bottling wand attachment will make life 100% easier.
 
Batch priming is inconsistent IMO, some gushers, some flat, some just right. I use a big syringe now, so each bottle gets exactly the correct amount, it doesn't take that long.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I like the syringe idea.
One last thing if I may, heres a pic of a bottle held yp to the light after 24hrs. Is this just the natural setteling part of this? As their seems to be an "oil slick" as it where.

20170116_224231.jpg
 

Similar threads

W
Priming Sugar /Dextrose Sugar confusion
Replies
8
Views
527
MashBag
MashBag
Frisp
In Keg Natural Carbonation and Conditioning
Replies
17
Views
1K
hoppyscotty
hoppyscotty
earthwormgaz
Priming sugar 50g
Replies
16
Views
1K
foxy
foxy
Keruso
Keg or bottle my 1st Stout
Replies
11
Views
397
The-Engineer-That-Brews
The-Engineer-That-Brews
T
Pressure Barrel Priming
Replies
2
Views
488
.Tom.
T

Latest posts

Back
Top