My coupler is stuck on the nipple!

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cheeseyfeet

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Hi all, I have a problem!

Can anyone share methods of releasing couplers from hex nipples?

My hlt valve is connected to the coupler in the pot using a hex nipple but it's locked tight. I can get a spanner on the hex nut part of the nipple on the outside of the pot, but the coupler inside is smooth so there's nothing to get purchase on.

I've tried an adjustable spanner on the inside of the coupler as I don't care about the internal threads at this point but it's still a no go.

Any ideas?

Cheers!

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Hi!
Have you tried gripping the outside of the coupler with this type of spanner?

image.jpeg
 
is it a SS thru the deck fitting?? if so it may well have lugs inside the barrel you can bodge a tool to wedge in ;)

If its a tank connector like
71736.jpg
and pump pliers cant get a grip, you can cold chissel knock the flange round with a hammer while keeping the external nut stable with a spanner
 
before resulting to hammer n chissel (and gentle controlled taps)
you could try a deep spray of wd40 on the thread and locking nut and let it soak in overnight, and then try a few 'quick jerk' undo's with a long spanner with good leverage

remember to deep clean the kettle valve n fittings if you do oil up. AND....

NEXT TIME dont forget a ptfe wrap while its damn useful to help seal its also a lubricant in tape form ;)
 
the links dont work for me but the 'full_socket' element of the url is a bit of a clue, pump pliers are what you need ;)

unlike brass you cant apply that extra lil OOmph or torque into a SS to SS threaded fitting, SS against SS can lock, and when the threads get that tight any ptfe used is shredded. probably not the case here im sure while im no metallurgist i think it may take a bit more torque to sieze SS, you dint have a 4ft lever on the spanner when you tightened up did you ;)

if its a case of lining up h/w like ensuring a valve lever is on top, one way is finger tight thread the fittings in situe and count the full revolutions it takes to tighten up, and remember the count.

Then wrap a good amount of ptfe tightly on the male thread and proceed to fit again counting the full revolutions, and as long as the count remains below the initial finger tight count your ok, due to the tape mass your probably lining the tap up 5 or more revolutions short of the limit with a good seal ;)
you may need an extra spacing m20 washer, it all depends, when it comes to a redo, 1 redo is probably par for the course, strip off all used ptfe before applying more anew.
 
the links dont work for me but the 'full_socket' element of the url is a bit of a clue, pump pliers are what you need ;)

unlike brass you cant apply that extra lil OOmph or torque into a SS to SS threaded fitting, SS against SS can lock, and when the threads get that tight any ptfe used is shredded. probably not the case here im sure while im no metallurgist i think it may take a bit more torque to sieze SS, you dint have a 4ft lever on the spanner when you tightened up did you ;)

if its a case of lining up h/w like ensuring a valve lever is on top, one way is finger tight thread the fittings in situe and count the full revolutions it takes to tighten up, and remember the count.

Then wrap a good amount of ptfe tightly on the male thread and proceed to fit again counting the full revolutions, and as long as the count remains below the initial finger tight count your ok, due to the tape mass your probably lining the tap up 5 or more revolutions short of the limit with a good seal ;)
you may need an extra spacing m20 washer, it all depends, when it comes to a redo, 1 redo is probably par for the course, strip off all used ptfe before applying more anew.



Thanks Fil - excellent tips!

I did apply a fair amount of force as I've put up with a slow drip for ages and wanted all leaks sorted in my rebuild, not a four foot lever in sight but the full force of my generously proportioned weight!


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Well after an hour of swearing and sweating with my new pliers I eventually got the coupler off!

Anyone know a good way to clean wd40 fully from a stainless pot?

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where there is a will ;)

very hot water (hotter than taps can supply) and soda crystals lift all sorts of grease and oil from things, its great for cleaning extractor fan grease traps for example..

if using soaps and detergents really rinse and re-rinse over a few days to remove the clinging head killers..
 
You might get it of with pump pliers just depends how strong your hand grip is, stilson's are what you want, failing being able to move it you might need to apply some heat in the shape of a blow lamp (extreme cases only)
 
You might get it of with pump pliers just depends how strong your hand grip is, stilson's are what you want, failing being able to move it you might need to apply some heat in the shape of a blow lamp (extreme cases only)
Thanks, the water pump pliers did the trick after quite a while of trying.

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