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Old 25-11-2017, 11:58 PM   #1
Aarondapastyman
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Default Mash in the Oven?

Main man @MyQul mentioned doing a mash in the oven to me recently. Just wondering if I put the pot and oven in at 65 degrees until it hits temp and then add grains or add grains, stir etc then raise to temp?

Hoping to brew tomorrow and it sounds much easier to mash in the oven than stove top for a 5L brew!!
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Old 26-11-2017, 12:29 AM   #2
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heat the strike liquor in a pan on top of the stove it will take a lot less time.. I would suggest a strike temp of 71c as you will bring the temp down a bit when you add the room temp grains. ( an off the boil kettle and jug of cold water can be used to fine tune the temp if needed post mash in but if 66-68C i would leave as is .

Then once mashed in pop it in the oven, but i would strongly urge you to temp test the oven way in advance to avoid cooking your brew

Another alternative for smaller volume stove top brews is the Blue Peter Tortoise treatment, Bang you mash in a big box with packing beans to insulate it.. Good insulation will hold an optimum mash temp perfectly well, and is by far the easiest method to employ too.

regardless enjoy the brew and results,,
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Old 26-11-2017, 02:17 AM   #3
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This is my Mash Tun. It's made from a 32 litre Cool Box, a few odds and ends of piping and a garden tap. It all comes to pieces for cleaning and it took me about two hours to knock it up.

Pre-warmed with Strike Water it only loses a couple of degrees during a one-hour Mash; and I can still use it to transport freezer stuff back from the supermarket!
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Old 26-11-2017, 08:15 AM   #4
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Yeah I think it might work as a way to maintain temp.. not sure about heating the water.
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Old 26-11-2017, 09:13 AM   #5
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I mash in the oven.

I do BIAB and my 12L pot will just fit in the oven, so I heat things up on top (72C before doughing-in usually gives me a 66C mash temp) and at the same time put the oven on min. Then I turn the oven off and put the mash pot in there, taking it out halfway through for a stir. Works a treat keeping the mash temp up for smaller volumes brews.
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Old 26-11-2017, 09:21 AM   #6
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I normally Dough in, then put the pot in oven and leave it their for an hour. Darrelm turns the oven of. I leave it on. Both would work.

As for hitting your mash temp Fils suggestion of a jug of both hot and cold water is great, but I usually use the strike temp calc from jims which I usually find fairly accurate. But having a jug of cold and hot too just in case is a good idea

http://www.jimsbeerkit.co.uk/calc.html
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Old 26-11-2017, 10:05 AM   #7
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Seeing as I've posted an answer to your original question, I hope that gives me liscence to go off topic a bit (C'mon this is THBF, it never takes long for a thread to wander off topic, thne get lost in the woods )

So you're making a 5L stove topper tommorow? You're making 5L so you want 5L of beer right? With small batches it always seems you end up losing loads of beer to trub and only end up with 3.5L of actual beer. Here's what I do;

Even though I'm aiming for 5L, calculate the recipe for 6L (although I normally make 10L matches so calculate the reciepe for 12L). But when I come to brew it I brew it to 5L. So I end up with 5L of slightly stronger wort in the FV.
I no-chill so normally put the stronger 5L of wort into 5L a 'no-chill FV' cover it with cling film and leave it to overnight to cool. The next day I get a second FV and decant/carefully pour the wort from the no chill FV into the actually FV, leaving behind all that break material and hop debris that robs me of beer.
I'll then have about 4L of stronger/concentrated wort in the FV. I then top up the FV to 5L with water and pitch the yeast.
In this way when it comes to packaging time I get almost the 5L of beer I'm aiming for and as a Brucey Bonus, very clean yeast to harvest as all the break material has been thrown down the bog.

If your not no-chilling and are cooling the pot in the sink, you'll need to do it this way: After the boil has finished. Sit the pot on the side for 30 - 40mins. The break materiel will then sink to the bottom of the pot. Decant the hot wort off the break material and into your FV. Then chill the wort in the FV, in the sink as normal.
I've tried cooling the wort down to pitching temp and then attempting to let the break material sink to the bottom, but it doesnt work. It takes hours for the break material to compact to the bottom at pitching temp. When the wort is very hot the break material can sink to the bottom easier because of the higher viscosity of the wort at higher temps
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Old 26-11-2017, 10:44 AM   #8
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BTW, I was interested in the system so I checked my oven (a gas one) and the lowest temperature on the control knob is 120 degrees!

Ah well, that's life eh!
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AG Low ABV Pale Ale (19/11/17)

Carbonating/Conditioning
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Old 26-11-2017, 10:47 AM   #9
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Thanks for the link to strike calc M...
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Old 26-11-2017, 10:52 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dutto View Post
BTW, I was interested in the system so I checked my oven (a gas one) and the lowest temperature on the control knob is 120 degrees!

Ah well, that's life eh!
Is that F or C. If it's C it sounds like you could use your oven for roasting whole boar
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