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Old 06-12-2017, 11:36 PM   #1
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Default Ups got it wrong, wonder what will happen? (2)

Not living at home, so today it was mad dash home to start a beer off for the new year. Single can kit so it was just pour sugar and can into fermenter top up to 40 pints bang it into freezer with an 8 watt bulb to heat if required.

In the main the brews end up at around 18 deg C but little low or little high no problem the STC-1000 will either switch on bulb or run freezer and temperature is soon corrected.

However as I carried the brew to garage I swirled it about and the temperature probe was recording 10.5 deg C, no time to play with different heaters I had to just shut the freezer door and leave.

I reckon on 30 hours to warm up, before the yeast starts to work, so not a clue if the yeast will work before any wild yeasts take over, it was after all just tap water.
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Old 07-12-2017, 03:12 PM   #2
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Bump.

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Old 07-12-2017, 03:57 PM   #3
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I got a bit lost on the other thread so read the OP again. I'd be surprised if there's much in your water that would overtake your yeast, the air would be different but that's not an issue from your description. If your tap water is a concern generally then you may want to use bottled.

You might find the yeast start slowly if they had been chilled so maybe a quick swirl and see if you get activity.


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Old 07-12-2017, 04:10 PM   #4
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My tap water is currently about 15-16*C (it was about 19*C in the middle of summer). I live in SE England. If wort at 10.5*C and allowing for some boiling water in there to get the LME mobile, suggests to me tap water at about 7-8*Cish. Not sure where ericmark is located but this sounds too low. So if that's correct the 10.5*C is a spurious reading and/or the temperature probe is misreading, or the temperature probe is measuring FV wall and not actual wort temperature, something OP doesn't explain.
That aside I'm sure brew will be fine, assuming temperature readings used to control brew are accurate.
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Old 07-12-2017, 04:21 PM   #5
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I can only cross fingers, my mother has Alzheimer's and I am forced to live with her, the brewing fridge/freezer is at home, so I had a window of opportunity while she was in day care to get a brew started.

In my hurry I did not check temperature as filling the fermenter, last time I did one it was Summer and I had got use to using as little hot water as I could, it was not until I came to put the sensor on the side of the fermenter I saw how cold, had I had enough time I would have swapped heaters I use a 18W underfloor demo tile in fridge, but it was time to go, so just left with 8W CFL bulb, I know that can maintain the temperature, but until I got home and used an on line calculator I had not realised it would take 30 hours to heat up, I did once try to lager a kit beer, it was a total failure, I got the lager yeast but forgot I was using tap water, so before the correct yeast got going some other yeast got hold, so not worried about 5 or 6 hours to reach temperature, but 30 is stretching it a bit.

I suppose once the yeast kicks in it will heat up anyway, I aim for 19.5 deg C for first few days, and I know even in winter the freezer motor often kicks in at start, wish I had the energy meter connected so I would know.

So thanks to all who answered it is nice to know likely no problem, had I been home I would have at least changed the bulb for a larger one.
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Old 07-12-2017, 04:44 PM   #6
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I don't use any temperature control as I don't have a brew fridge. The last kit I made was over a week ago and the temperature at pitching was about 20C. I put the fv in a builder's trug insulated with a thick beach towel wrapped between the trug and fv. At night time, after the heating is off in the house, I am sure that the temperature drops dramatically. My last brew took about 30 hours before any krausen appeared and has dropped from 1.056 to 1.015 in 10 days. It seems to be ok so I'm sure yours will be.
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Old 07-12-2017, 04:47 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ericmark View Post
had I been home I would have at least changed the bulb for a larger one.
that ask,s another question,How many home brewers
to do this
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Old 07-12-2017, 05:14 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by connor7932 View Post
that ask,s another question,How many home brewers
to do this
That depends on if you're making "Light Ale"!!
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Old 07-12-2017, 07:42 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ericmark View Post
Not living at home, so today it was mad dash home to start a beer off for the new year. Single can kit so it was just pour sugar and can into fermenter top up to 40 pints bang it into freezer with an 8 watt bulb to heat if required.

In the main the brews end up at around 18 deg C but little low or little high no problem the STC-1000 will either switch on bulb or run freezer and temperature is soon corrected.

However as I carried the brew to garage I swirled it about and the temperature probe was recording 10.5 deg C, no time to play with different heaters I had to just shut the freezer door and leave.

I reckon on 30 hours to warm up, before the yeast starts to work, so not a clue if the yeast will work before any wild yeasts take over, it was after all just tap water.
As it warmed up for a period today / yesterday, I would guess that you will be fine with the warm-up period and the amount of yeast you pitched, by cell count, will swamp almost anything and everything, which is why brewing started in the first instance.
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Old 07-12-2017, 11:38 PM   #10
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I will say again - "Worry ye not!"

As the OP mentioned Wild Yeasts, maybe I should have posted the following to point out why:

Wild yeasts.

"Any organism that has not intentionally been introduced to a beer by the brewer is considered a spoilage organism. Thus, the principal form of wild yeast contamination in beer is from rogue strains of Saccharomyces cerevisiae. These spoil beer through ester or phenolic off-flavor production (POF), formation of haze or sediment, or superattenuation, leading to overcarbonation and diminished body. In Saccharomyces and other yeasts, POF is caused by decarboxylation of p-coumaric acid and ferulic acid to 4-vinylphenol and 4-vinylguaiacol, respectively, a property engendered by the POF1 gene. These compounds give beer an unusual medicinal or spicy clove aroma and are atypical for most beers, though they are considered a marker trait of German wheat beers and some Belgian ales, as the yeasts used in these beers are POF positive.

Brettanomyces yeasts (teleomorph Dekkera), including Brettanomyces bruxellensis, Brettanomyces custersii, and Brettanomyces anomalus, are nefarious contaminants of most beers and other alcoholic beverages, though their presence is often encouraged in other types of beer. These yeasts spoil beer through the production of the highly volatile phenolic compounds 4-ethylguaiacol and 4-ethylphenol, lending the aroma of bandages, sweat, and smoke. A number of other metabolites, including copious acetate production in the presence of oxygen, result in a wide range of off-flavors produced by these yeasts. In spite of its reputation, Brettanomyces is a desired component of certain beers, particularly Belgian lambic and fruit beers, in which its beta-glycosidase activity enhances fruit aroma. In a bygone age, Brettanomyces character was even considered an indispensable element of proper English stock beers, and it was first described for English beer, giving this yeast its name.

A large number of other non-Saccharomyces yeasts are capable of growth in beer, but their spoilage potential is limited under optimal storage conditions, due to the combined factors of oxygen limitation, ethanol toxicity, and competition with Saccharomyces. These include Pichia anomala, Pichia fermentans, Pichia membranifaciens, Pichia guilliermondii, Candida tropicalis, Candida boidinii, Candida sake, and Candida parapsilosis; Candida guilliermondii, Candida glabrata, Candida valida, Saccharomyces unisporus, Torulaspora delbrueckii, and Issatchenkia orientalis; and Kluyveromyces marxianus, Debaryomyces hansenii, Zygosaccharomyces bailii, Zygosaccharomyces bisporus, Schizosaccharomyces pombe, and Kloeckera apiculata. Most of these yeasts spoil beer through the production of off-flavors (especially organic acids and POF), haze, sediment, or surface films. Like AAB, these yeasts are common throughout breweries, especially in unwashed sampling ports and on other surfaces contacting beer. They are opportunistic contaminants, causing spoilage when conditions are favorable, but are generally not an issue in modern brewing practices, due to improved oxygen control. These yeasts are more of an issue in barrel-fermented beers, where oxygen ingress stimulates their growth, hence the need to limit the headspace during barrel maturation."


As it is - I reiterate "Worry ye not." It should all come good in a few days!
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