Almost Phenolic Harsh Astringent Taste

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I apologise in advance as this will be a fairly lengthy post. I hope someone can give me some pointers as I'm tearing my hair out here and in truth I am on the verge of giving up.......anyone want to buy some shiny shiny?? :lol:

I started brewing AG around 5 years ago in second hand plastic kit. I made great beer.....I brew pales and bitters.
My water is quite high in alkalinity and I used to use a Salifert test kit with an appropriate amount of CRS to get this below 25ppm. I also added 1tsp of gypsum to both the mash and boil per 20 litres of beer brewed.

I upgraded my set up to stainless and my first brews went well, but then I've developed a problem that I just can't fathom.
The beers that I was making started coming out with a very harsh twang to them.....almost phenolic, not quite astringent, verging on metallic :(
I must have dumped 3 or 4 batches, which is never very good for the soul......I then had a bit of break following the birth of my son.

First batch ended up being dumped again due to the reasons above.
I sent a water sample to Murphys for them to analyse, which they duly did and they sent me some recommendations depending on the beer style that I wanted to brew.
The CRS addition they quote for pales and bitters is very close to what I used to calculate out from the Salifert tests. They also give me an addition of DWB of 23g for 40 litre brew length.

Since I got the water test from Murphys I have made three batches.
The first two were great and I thought, at last I had cracked it and had something that would work consistently well for me.
The two batches were pale ales; 5.2% and 5.6% ABV with a grain bill of mainly pale malt, munich malt and a little bit of caragold in the lower gravity beer.

My latest brew is a bitter....94% pale MO, 2% wheat malt, 2% pale crystal and 2% crystal.
I mashed overnight with 2.5 litres of liquor per kg of grain at 66 degrees and I hit my expected OG of 1048 for 40 litres of wort.
I can't remember the hop schedule off the top of my head, but the IBU level was 36 from a mixture of fuggles and goldings.....fresh, unopened packs from our friend Rob.
Yeast was Stones brewery that I'd ordered from Brewlab.....they did the step up for 40 litres of wort and there were no off smells on decanting the beer from it prior to pitching.

So, I go to check my brew last night.....it is sat in a large water bath kept at 20 degrees to be met with the almost phenolic harsh astringent taste :doh:
I knew it was there as soon as I cracked the fermenter lid :cry:

Some other information that may be of help in solving my problem.
I batch sparge and the grain is monitored so that the bed is never more than 74 degrees.
The two good brews were made with dried yeast.....US05 and Nottingham.
I do not use any chlorine based cleaners for anything; if I can't get it clean enough using hot water and elbow grease I will sometimes use a little bit of oxi clean and copious rinsing.
To sanitise; I use either Perbac diluted 1ml per 100ml of water or Starsan at 1.5ml per litre of water.
Since upgrading my system I use a plate chiller rather than an immersion cooler.
I have checked my fermeter several times for scratches that may be harbouring something nasty, but it is sound.
I aerate well prior to pitching and I always bring the yeast I'm using up to temperature.

Please ask if there is anything else you would like to know and I will happily post it up.

Again, I am sorry for the long and detailed post; but I really am at my wits end here as it looks like I'm going to have to throw away my 40 litres of Christmas beer.
 
Just to add to the above.
I will continue with the batch and put it in to a couple of corny kegs to see how it pans out.
I was going to bottle around half of it, but I don't see the point in all that effort just to have 40 odd bottles to empty out and the end of it.
I will bottle some of it though and would be prepared to post a few out if it would help someone identify what is wrong.
Thanks again.
 
Hi man, I can feel your pain from here! Don't give up though; I'm sure the forum will see you through.

The one thing you didn't mention is dechlorination of your water. Do you use Campden tabs or anything?
 
I'm by no means an expert but I often consult this page from How to Brew to try to identify unusual flavours. It does talk about some of the flavours you mention, astringent, phenolic, metallic.
 
Ceejay said:
Hi man, I can feel your pain from here! Don't give up though; I'm sure the forum will see you through.

The one thing you didn't mention is dechlorination of your water. Do you use Campden tabs or anything?

Yes I do Ceejay, 1 crushed tablet per 25 litres of liquor.

I will have a look at that link, thanks Stevie.
 
I've had a similar problem.

I have stopped using chlorine based cleaners and have started using a new fermenter as I was worried my old one was harboring nasties in the tap fitting.

Both brews have been fine since.

Hope that helps!
 
You mentioned water treatment , have you tested your mash ph ? i had problems until i reduce my ph by using lactic acid and have great results since , I had murphy's too but they recommend totally different to information of many many other info . Just saying you need to test your mash ph and it wants to be around 5.2/5.4 Mine used to be around 6.2 now 5.4 and happy with results.
 
I looked at the link Stevie and there is a line in there about steeping grains too long giving astringent flavours. The two beers that worked well were both mashed overnight, but had no crystal in the recipe. Maybe there is something in this?? :wha:
There was also mention of the really bitter trub having the potential to cause a problem if it drops back in to the beer.....mine just usually clings to the side and I've never considered it a problem.

I've checked the beer again tonight.
Last night it was sat at 1019, which I thought was surprising at 10 days in the fermenter....so I roused and increased the temp slightly in the water bath. I've taken a sample tonight and the temp of the wort is 22.6 degrees, which I am a little concerned about.....but the gravity has dropped to 1015. Hopefully I can get it down to 1010 so it's not too sweet.
The flavour issue is still there, but I think it has diminished somewhat.
I'm going to see it through.....hopefully it's some fermentation by-products that I have a particularly low taste threshold for and they will not be apparent once I'm down to FG and can get the beer in to secondaries for a week or so.
I am not hopeful though :nah:
 
From what you've said, I can't see a thing you're doing wrong - I had this once and it was due to how I was using the hops (I had to painfully reduce batch size to go through method of elimination). Probably a red herring, but what is your hop schedule?
 
pittsy said:
You mentioned water treatment , have you tested your mash ph ? i had problems until i reduce my ph by using lactic acid and have great results since , I had murphy's too but they recommend totally different to information of many many other info . Just saying you need to test your mash ph and it wants to be around 5.2/5.4 Mine used to be around 6.2 now 5.4 and happy with results.
Hi Pittsy,

Just wondering what you use to check your mash PH, and when in the mash do you test it?

Thanks,

Joe
 
At what point have you binned your batches?

I've had a couple of beers that were awful in the primary, with harsh bitterness and astringent-like, I was panicking, but they turned out well after a few weeks of maturing and the yeast dropping out, I believe some yeasts can provide off-flavours early on, that disappear with time.

Do you use any finings?

Definitely check mash pH as too high can cause astringency (I wouldn't have thought this would be a prob though with your water treatments).
 
joe1002 said:
pittsy said:
You mentioned water treatment , have you tested your mash ph ? i had problems until i reduce my ph by using lactic acid and have great results since , I had murphy's too but they recommend totally different to information of many many other info . Just saying you need to test your mash ph and it wants to be around 5.2/5.4 Mine used to be around 6.2 now 5.4 and happy with results.
Hi Pittsy,

Just wondering what you use to check your mash PH, and when in the mash do you test it?

Thanks,

Joe
Hi just a cheap digital ph meter , around £20 off ebay .
You need to let the mash do it's thing for 20 mins (at sacc rest not protein rest etc) then take a sample and let it cool to 20c ish and then take a reading
 
pittsy said:
joe1002 said:
pittsy said:
You mentioned water treatment , have you tested your mash ph ? i had problems until i reduce my ph by using lactic acid and have great results since , I had murphy's too but they recommend totally different to information of many many other info . Just saying you need to test your mash ph and it wants to be around 5.2/5.4 Mine used to be around 6.2 now 5.4 and happy with results.
Hi Pittsy,

Just wondering what you use to check your mash PH, and when in the mash do you test it?

Thanks,

Joe
Hi just a cheap digital ph meter , around £20 off ebay .
You need to let the mash do it's thing for 20 mins (at sacc rest not protein rest etc) then take a sample and let it cool to 20c ish and then take a reading
Thanks :thumb:
 
Thanks for the further responses.
I don't usually check mash pH, but I have a pH meter and will do so on my next brew....probably in to the New Year now.

I've not really considered it was necessary; as by using the CRS to reduce the alkalinity to an appropriate level, I should be in the ballpark. We'll see on that I guess.
Also, the two previous brews I did were fine and there was no crystal in these recipes.....darker malts lower pH IIRC??

The other thing that has crossed my mind, is my sparging technique. I'm confident that the grain bed doesn't get too hot but I remember thinking during the run-off that the wort looked a lot clearer towards the end of each batch sparge than at the beginning.
I do jug the first runnings back....usually about 10 litres or so......until there is no husk or other bits comming through and the liquid is relatively clear. Maybe I need to be more thorough in this and get a clearer wort prior to starting to collect for the boiler??

If I am putting somewhat cloudy wort in the boiler, I guess I'm boiling up things that I shouldn't be......tannis maybe?? :wha:
I need to get the big text books out later and do some reading I think.

Thanks again.
 
Further update.
Gravity down to 1010 last night and I've racked it in to two secondaries. The taste and smell are not good :doh:
I've still got the very harsh phenolic compounds.

This yeast I'm using is a strange one. It is acting quite a lot like US05/WLP001.....thick, creamy krausen that doesn't seem to want to drop out. The fermenter has a bottom tap, so I dropped the beer out from under the head of yeast and I've added some finings adjunct. It's in the conservatory now which is pretty cold at this time of year, so hopefully it will clear down and I can asses it further.

I collected the beery/yeast/trub in to a 2 litre bottle....really just to have a go at it as it's something I've never done.
The layers wouldn't separate out properly even with an hour in the fridge at 4 degrees, the plastic bottle has also gotten rock hard....so I guess that fermentation of the small amount of beer in there was still going on. I had to take it outside to release the pressure and dispose of it down the drain.
I don't think the old Stones' brewery yeast is going to get another opportunity at my place :nono:

I also got out my text books last night and there is some interesting information provided by Fix. I need to read it again, as I was pretty tired.....but the basic jist is that there are metabolic pathways that the yeast can use to produce aromatic alcohols (phenolic compounds) during fermentation.
I couldn't find any information (yet) on how to limit/prevent these.......I will post again once I have had a more in depth read and understand it in a bit more detail.

My own feeling though is that it is something that is happening during the mash and/or sparge....probably alkalinity and pH issues and I will be concentrating on this when I brew again in the New Year.

Still not hopeful regarding this batch, but I'm going to leave it a week or two and put some in to bottles so I can try and get a more experienced view on what might be going wrong.
 
One thought about brewery yeast is that because it mutates a little with each use (which is fine up to about 10 times) it adapts itself to the brewery conditions (e.g. amount of aeration, presence of minerals, process, type of fermenter etc...)

If the yeast is not used to your brewery conditions, it may act up and not ferment the way you would want it to.
 
I've considered something along those lines adomant.
But I would have thought that Brewlab would be stepping up starters from tiny cultures of good health.
 
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