Kegmenter - Dry Hopping and Measuring Gravity

The Homebrew Forum

Help Support The Homebrew Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Dry hop - You would need to depressurise (very important), then remove the lid. Add hops, put lid back on, purge and top up CO2. I don't think there is an off the shelf way to use a hop bong on these, but someone has probably come up with a way.

Measuring gravity - take a sample via the diptube or use a floating hydrometer. Latter may prove more difficult in terms of signal if you plan to ferment inside a fridge but is quite probably doable.

I looked at these, but went with an all-rounder in the end. I use a temperature probe and it was easier to drill into the all rounder plastic lid than the stainless kegmenter lid (although I have the right bits) for the thermowell.

In hindsight as I don't generally dry hop I should have got the Kegmenter as it will last.
 
That's probably the answer for the dry hops. I thought about putting the dry hops in a purged, spare corny then transferring the beer to that for a few days before transferring to the keg it will be served from.
The first problem with that is that I don't have a spare corny. If I did there is a risk of the hops blocking the dip tube or liquid out post. I'd use a filter on the dip tube in the kegmenter.
For gravity readings I though about a Tilt or similar but start reading too many posts about reliability problems.
I guess if I am opening the kegmenter to add dry hops I could open it to take a sample for a gravity reading. Taking a sample via the dip tube would prevent me putting it back after taking the reading.
 
Why would you put the gravity sample back into the fermenter?

Edit - Sorry that reads a bit dismissive, not intended.

Gravity sample is for tasting, and no matter how good your sanitation is you're running the risk of introducing contaminants or oxygen. I don't think it's worth it for 100ml of beer.
 
Why would you put the gravity sample back into the fermenter?

Edit - Sorry that reads a bit dismissive, not intended.

Gravity sample is for tasting, and no matter how good your sanitation is you're running the risk of introducing contaminants or oxygen. I don't think it's worth it for 100ml of beer.
I measure the gravity, pour most of it back and then have a sip. This has never caused a problem.
 
That's probably the answer for the dry hops. I thought about putting the dry hops in a purged, spare corny then transferring the beer to that for a few days before transferring to the keg it will be served from.
The first problem with that is that I don't have a spare corny. If I did there is a risk of the hops blocking the dip tube or liquid out post. I'd use a filter on the dip tube in the kegmenter.
For gravity readings I though about a Tilt or similar but start reading too many posts about reliability problems.
I guess if I am opening the kegmenter to add dry hops I could open it to take a sample for a gravity reading. Taking a sample via the dip tube would prevent me putting it back after taking the reading.
I do this when dry hopping with my fermzilla. Works better than dropping hops in. Ideally you need two kegs, one to hop and cold crash and then transfer into a serving and carbonation keg. I use a floating dip tube on the dry hop keg to avoid blockages. Or you can use a stainless steel hop tube or hop bag.
 
I do this when dry hopping with my fermzilla. Works better than dropping hops in. Ideally you need two kegs, one to hop and cold crash and then transfer into a serving and carbonation keg. I use a floating dip tube on the dry hop keg to avoid blockages. Or you can use a stainless steel hop tube or hop bag.
I think that is the route to go. I'll have to out for a second hand corny if I do get a kegmenter.
I might not bother with the fg. The wort will be fermented if I have left it long enough and does it really matter what the ABV is?
 
If I was to buy one of these
https://brewkegtap.co.uk/collection...9l-stainless-uni-tank-pressurisable-fermenter
so that I can brew hoppy beers without risk of oxidation and do closed transfers to my keg how would I dry hop and how would I check the SG?
Well according to Peter Wolfes Thesis on dry hopping, dry hopping introduces oxygen into the beer and suggests carrying out dry hopping on day 3 while the fermentation is still active.
The downside to this 'could' be losing hop aroma through it getting scrubbed during fermentation but I don't know if there is any scientific evidence of this.
Get a picnic tap to take samples from the liquid post to check the SG.
 
Well according to Peter Wolfes Thesis on dry hopping, dry hopping introduces oxygen into the beer and suggests carrying out dry hopping on day 3 while the fermentation is still active.
The downside to this 'could' be losing hop aroma through it getting scrubbed during fermentation but I don't know if there is any scientific evidence of this.
Get a picnic tap to take samples from the liquid post to check the SG.
How does that help avoid the introduction of oxygen on day 3 when dry hopping?
 
Maybe get an all-rounder or Apollo instead, use the money saved for a Pill & RAPT temp controller or iSpindel, Nautilus relay and ink bird. As for dry hopping, just ferment under a small amount of pressure pre-dry hop (around 5psi), de-pressurise and open the lid and chuck them in, purge with some CO2 after, you could also run CO2 through the liquid out so it comes out of the floating dip tube whilst you have the lid cracked if you're paranoid about O2 ingress. Or get yourself a hop bong but, TBA, it's probably not wort it.
 
Maybe get an all-rounder or Apollo instead, use the money saved for a Pill & RAPT temp controller or iSpindel, Nautilus relay and ink bird. As for dry hopping, just ferment under a small amount of pressure pre-dry hop (around 5psi), de-pressurise and open the lid and chuck them in, purge with some CO2 after, you could also run CO2 through the liquid out so it comes out of the floating dip tube whilst you have the lid cracked if you're paranoid about O2 ingress. Or get yourself a hop bong but, TBA, it's probably not wort it.
The kegmenter is a good choice for me because it will fit in my fermenting fridge, is easy to move and will last a longer than a plastic fermenter.
I'm not paranoid about oxidisation so de-pressurising and opening the lid is the way to go.

I have a party tap so can use that to take a sample to check the gravity (and have a taste for QA purposes).

I've just got to hope that Santa is generous.
 
Yeast will still be active and take up the oxygen.
Not quite right, yeast, once it goes into anaerobic mode does not return to taking up oxygen. Would be good if it did, it would erase all the worries about oxygen-free bottling and kegging.
How does that help avoid the introduction of oxygen on day 3 when dry hopping?
As long as fermentation is still active the CO2 will scrub any oxygen out of the fermenter. Yes, you can open up the fermenter without worrying about oxygen entering the fermenter as long as fermentation is still going. Ideally, if you want oxygen free then drink directly from the Kegmentor, that is what it is designed for.
Or as stripeyjoe suggested get a PET fermenter and save some money, I would guess you could buy a lifetimes supply of PET for that money.
 
Not quite right, yeast, once it goes into anaerobic mode does not return to taking up oxygen. Would be good if it did, it would erase all the worries about oxygen-free bottling and kegging.

As long as fermentation is still active the CO2 will scrub any oxygen out of the fermenter. Yes, you can open up the fermenter without worrying about oxygen entering the fermenter as long as fermentation is still going. Ideally, if you want oxygen free then drink directly from the Kegmentor, that is what it is designed for.
Or as stripeyjoe suggested get a PET fermenter and save some money, I would guess you could buy a lifetimes supply of PET for that money.
OK, so dry hop during active fermentation and use my party tap for samples
 

Latest posts

Back
Top