Rajas reward stuck

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LeftyOtool

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I started Rajas Reward 9 days ago and followed the instructions to the letter. The airlock bubbled constantly for about 4 days but then stopped. I've just taken a reading at its 1020. After 8-10 days it should be between 1008-1010. It does say in the instructions that it can take 15 days to ferment fully. Anyone else made this ale?
 
Yep had the same I tried all tips patience first then a gentle stir then small amount of sugar and water to activate yeast all a waste of time after 5 or 6 weeks in fv still at 1020 I bottled turned out fine but didn't think much of it ok but i wasnt happy just a plain beer ***** kit if u ask me
 
Yep had the same I tried all tips patience first then a gentle stir then small amount of sugar and water to activate yeast all a waste of time after 5 or 6 weeks in fv still at 1020 I bottled turned out fine but didn't think much of it ok but i wasnt happy just a plain beer ***** kit if u ask me
That's a shame, i'll give it to the neighbours if it turns out to be **** :cool:
 
My RR got down to 1.016 after three weeks; after four weeks, it had got to 1.015 for an ABV of 3.7%. It tasted OK but I was disappointed.
 
I had a bottle last night and was rather underwhelmed. I moved the fermenting barrel to a spare room and forgot about it, I popped in for something else a week later and it had started bubbling again. Took a reading and it was down around 1012. I left it another few days and bottled it. Tried it last night and I think it's just very average. I won't bother with this one again.
 
I had a similar experience with Raja's Reward. In the fermenter for two weeks but still at 1.020. Barrelled it anyway and left it for a week or so. Then eventually tried it and was very disappointed, quite a dull beer really. It was okay, but for a premium kit, it was just rather ordinary. I wouldn't do that one again.
 
I have this beer in the FV and have had for nearly 3 weeks now. Mine got stuck at 1.020 but also had/has a very strong yeasty taste. I tried adding more sugar, more yeast, yeast nutrients and nothing. I was looking for more advice or tips on how I can fix this but now I've found this thread I'm gonna barrel it and leave it and forget about it. Pain in the **** and waste of time. Give me the space for the Razorback IPA athumb..
Did yours all have a yeasty taste? If so, how did it taste after a few weeks conditioning?
 
...has a very strong yeasty taste. I tried adding more sugar, more yeast, yeast nutrients and nothing.
Did yours all have a yeasty taste? If so, how did it taste after a few weeks conditioning?
Mine didn't have the yeasty taste, it was okay quality wise but just lacked any real character, a very plain and almost boring beer. I have almost finished drinking the last of it now, so it wasn't horrible, but I definitely wouldn't make it again. It did improve slightly after a few weeks, but not enough to alter my conclusion. It might be better if it's radically "pimped up" with additional hops or something, but it's was supposed to be premium kit and did come with it's own hops to dry hop with, so really you shouldn't have to spend more on it, like maybe you would with a budget or standard kit.

I wonder if the yeasty flavour is down to the additional yeast that you added into the beer, but which hasn't continued to ferment.
 
I wonder if the yeasty flavour is down to the additional yeast that you added into the beer, but which hasn't continued to ferment.
It was yeasty tasting before I added the extra yeast. It didn’t make it more yeasty, it just took away the sweetness.
 
So what I was thinking was cold crashing this stuck, yeasty wort, hopefully to make the yeast settle and sink. Then transferring it to a secondary with more fermentables and a new yeast packet. Is this a really dumb idea or do I stand some sort of success with it? I don't want to have to bin it, but also don't want to waste the time as I've got another kit ready to go. Has anyone ever done this?? :confused.:
 
So what I was thinking was cold crashing this stuck, yeasty wort, hopefully to make the yeast settle and sink. Then transferring it to a secondary with more fermentables and a new yeast packet.
Personally, I would just go with the cold crash and then keg or bottle it. It really isn't worth investing the time and effort into doing much more with it IMHO.
 
So what I was thinking was cold crashing this stuck, yeasty wort, hopefully to make the yeast settle and sink. Then transferring it to a secondary with more fermentables and a new yeast packet. Is this a really dumb idea or do I stand some sort of success with it? I don't want to have to bin it, but also don't want to waste the time as I've got another kit ready to go. Has anyone ever done this?? :confused.:
I bottled at 1020 after a few weeks it was drinkable
 
I have this kit waiting to brew for the first time but all the negativity here is putting me off. I've never been one for pimping kits as I just don't feel I have the experience but with this one, it seems like there's not a lot to lose. I have made Razorback IPA and Youngs American IPA with great success in the past. So, I had a look to see what hops are supplied with these kits then checked out the info on Brewer's Friend to see what these hops are considered best for. The hops supplied with the RB and Youngs kits (Simcoe, Chinook, Centennial, Summit) contain hops best suited for American IPA. The hops supplied with Raja's Reward (Goldings, Fuggles) seem to be better suited for ales and bitters. I'm no expert but I think I'll look into using different hops for the Raja and see what results I get. Has anyone else tried this? Am I wasting my time/money?
 
I have this kit waiting to brew for the first time but all the negativity here is putting me off. I've never been one for pimping kits as I just don't feel I have the experience but with this one, it seems like there's not a lot to lose. I have made Razorback IPA and Youngs American IPA with great success in the past. So, I had a look to see what hops are supplied with these kits then checked out the info on Brewer's Friend to see what these hops are considered best for. The hops supplied with the RB and Youngs kits (Simcoe, Chinook, Centennial, Summit) contain hops best suited for American IPA. The hops supplied with Raja's Reward (Goldings, Fuggles) seem to be better suited for ales and bitters. I'm no expert but I think I'll look into using different hops for the Raja and see what results I get. Has anyone else tried this? Am I wasting my time/money?
Maybe Raja's Reward is a kit designed to replicate English IPAs not Amercian IPAs. Think Worthington White Shield not Punk.
There are so many hops out there to choose from, and your taste will be unique to everyone else's, and then how much of a hop head are you? For American type hops my usual go to is Cascade US but I also use Summit for bittering and Amarillo as a late hop but both can be overdone. So my shout would be either do it as it is or go for 50-100g Cascade US as a dry hop.
 

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