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When I started doing kits back in April I would bottle as soon as it was done. Now I have a decent stock I leave them in the bucket for a few weeks. I find the beer comes out far clearer when bottling. Some of my first brews that I have kept a bottle or two aside have a bit of a yeast cloud in them. The ones that I've left longer don't.

I also started a Wilko IPA kit today (the Aussie special edition) and am just wondering if someone can suggest whether I add the hops sachet after 4 days as the kit says or wait a bit longer. The 4 days stated in the kit is based on it being in the bucket for a week, if I leave the kit in the bucket for 2 or 3 weeks will this matter?
 
When I started doing kits back in April I would bottle as soon as it was done. Now I have a decent stock I leave them in the bucket for a few weeks. I find the beer comes out far clearer when bottling. Some of my first brews that I have kept a bottle or two aside have a bit of a yeast cloud in them. The ones that I've left longer don't.

I also started a Wilko IPA kit today (the Aussie special edition) and am just wondering if someone can suggest whether I add the hops sachet after 4 days as the kit says or wait a bit longer. The 4 days stated in the kit is based on it being in the bucket for a week, if I leave the kit in the bucket for 2 or 3 weeks will this matter?

Generally you don't want the hops in the bucket more than a week until you know better as you risk some adding some grassy flavour. Some kits have a little teabag that you can fish out after 3-4 days and bin it then put the lid back on and let it finish. If they are loose then you can use a spider or a mesh bag and still give yourself clearing time. Or wait and add the hops 3-4 days before you are planning to bottle.
 
OK, it's been 14 days since I started. Took a gravity reading and it looks like 1018. That seems like it's not done or has stalled. What should I do now?

20201014_182727.jpg
 
I've given it a stir and sealed it up again. I'll measure again in a couple of days. I'll get a better picture then if nothing has changed. If nothing changes, what should I do, add more yeast?
 
Yeah it won't harm...just make sure you sanitise ANYTHING you put in your beer..a syringe/ turkey baster and sample jar make taking a reading a bit easier.
 
Yeah it won't harm...just make sure you sanitise ANYTHING you put in your beer..a syringe/ turkey baster and sample jar make taking a reading a bit easier.
I did. It seemed easier to sanitise the hydrometer than try to sanitise something to scoop liquid out.

Could I put ordinary bread yeast in there? If so, how much?
 
Yeah it is but for me...with my rubbish eyes..I find looking at the test jar easier,can wait til any bubbles dissipate as these can cling to the hydrometer and fuzz up the reading.
 
I normally just lower my sanitised hydrometer into the wort/beer in the FV and take a reading, which seems to be the same as what you are doing. Frankly I found it more of a faff to use a sample jar. Anyway looking at your photo I would say its about 1.012 so its near done or actually done. It is also clear or clearing which backs this up. My advice is to leave it for another two days as your plan, and if the SG reading is the same it's safe to bottle. But if you are unsure about your SG reading post a better picture on here before you proceed.
 
You can pick up a turkey baster and sample jar in wilko very cheap. What temp is the beer at?
 
You can pick up a turkey baster and sample jar in wilko very cheap. What temp is the beer at?
The stick on thermometer suggests 20c-ish. It's on the bench in the utility room, there's a radiator in there (and a dog at night) so it remains at a reasonable 18-22c range, I would guess.
 
That's what I like to keep mine at. Just wanted to check because the yeast will work slower when colder. I'd leave for a day or two and test again with a sample jar. Keep an eye/ear out for bubbles in the airlock. Maybe time in-between so you know if it's slowing down or speeding up.
 
With due respect to @yrhendystu, I tried the Wilko turkey baster route, and the fiddling about involved getting a sample rather than just dunking the hydrometer seemed far more trouble, and gave no added value since I can read my hydrometer as accurately as I want to as it floats in the FV. So I tried it once and then wished I hadn't wasted my money on the sample vessel and baster combo.
 
All bottled (20)
 

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