Fermzilla 30L All rounder ?

SteveB. said:

I won't be making any wheat beers just ales or IPA of about 6% so will try a 28l batch next. Hopefully the krausen will stay lower than the gas out. If it gets too high then I'll increase the pressure with the spunding valve. I always connect the gas out of the AR to the beer out of a corny keg and the spunding valve to the gas in post. That ensures there's enough pressure for closed transfer and purges the keg of air. In fact enough gas is produced by the yeast to pressurise two kegs
Thanks for the help guys

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fgoulding said:

I have 2 All Rounders and I love them.

Here are some of my lessons learned:

1. If you buy the small filter, make sure you get the Kegland one, as some of the Chinese copies don't have the small eyelet on them which is needed to attach it to the ball/dip tube.

2. I recommend using food grade lube for the lid as it's a bugger to get off. You can pop it off with CO2 but that's such a pain.

3. The collar around the lid can also be a bugger to release but you can buy a cheap rubber lasso gadget to remove it.

4. Buy another carbonation cap, either a yellow or metal one, for the liquid post and then use a red one on the All Rounder to signify gas. It can be difficult tell liquid from gas during fermentation and having 2 red caps is the problem.

5. The tape that marks litres/gallons is inaccurate. If you care, then measure the liquid level yourself and use a marker on the All Rounder. But remember that when your wort is under pressure, the measurements will fluctuate.

6. Fermenting between 10psi and 15psi will naturally carbonate your beer. You can also harvest CO2 for free if you have multiple kegs. If you use a Float or Tilt check what pressure it can handle or it could do pop.

7. A spunding valve with a pressure gauge (I use the version 2 from Kegland) is a must and remember to tweak it during fermentation. And make sure that the spunding valve is the right way around (arrow pointing away from the carbonation cap) otherwise it will suck rather than blow!

8. You can add a tube from the spunding valve to a bottle of water if you want to see active fermentation. But the it's not necessary and the novelty soon wears off.

9. You can add a heat belt to control temps (a pad won't work due to the shape).

10. The metal stand keeps the AR stable but works better when the wider opening is facing up. That also reduces the head room needed in a fridge.

11. If head room in a fridge is an issue, you can ditch the metal stand and use a piece of plastic tubing as a stand to get an inch or two lower.

12. To test for pressure leaks, fill the AR with CO2 and place it upside down in a bucket to check for bubbles.

13. Only ever hand tighten the carbonation caps and never use a screwdriver to open the lid, as you'll break it or compromise the seal.

14. Kegland sell a harness for the AR which secures it to it's stand to make lifting the two much easier. I didn't buy one at first but then regretted it because having one makes it much easier to move them into a fermentation fridge.

15. I bought all the Fermzilla AR parts on Kegland's Aliexpress site (sorry local brew shops) because they are so much cheaper.

16. The T-Piece is great for adding finings under pressure if you want clear beer.

17. I use magnets and hop bags for dry-hopping rather (which some people frown upon) rather than open the difficult to remove lid. And you can slide the bag slowly down the side and under the wort without having to add weights inside.

I think that's it!

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SouthDowns said:

Super useful thread. Good to hear experience of all rounder users

I now have an all-rounder on its way from BKT. The main reason for purchase is to try to extend the life of my NEIPAs in keg by closed transfer. I am happy with how they taste fresh but find that fades faster than I can drink em. I also wanted a 2nd fermenter to try to make a lager (I also have SS Brewtech Brewbucket). I looked at the snub nose, the fermzilla and the fermenter king gen 3, but the ease of cleaning and simplicity of this decided it for me.

My thought process is to ferment my NEIPA under gravity until I dry hop (by quick addition though the top while there is still active fermentation); then allow to pressurise to 10-12 psi until fermentation is complete; cold crash and then close transfer to keg. Is this a reasonable first approach?

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SouthDowns said:

Thanks for the suggestion on the quick purge with CO2 after dry hoppin fgoulding. I will be able to do that so will look to incorporate that in my process. I am also going to add a thermowell through the lid so I can keep an eye on and control fermentation temperature.

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Mash Monster said:

HI I too have fitted thermowells to both my AR’s it was a real PITA to do and caused me no end of problems
You might want to consider buying extra lids just in case of accidents. Just saying good luck

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Mash Monster said:

I found the trick is to fit the fitting upside down with the nut on the outside it seems to work for me

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gingerneil said:

Anyone recommend the best place to buy an all rounder, including pressure kit ?

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gingerneil said:

Anyone recommend the best place to buy an all rounder, including pressure kit ?

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SouthDowns said:

Anyone recommend the best place to buy an all rounder, including pressure kit ?

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Davegase said:

I usually ferment from start to finish in the one vessel, in my case the fermzilla. I usually dry hop through the top which is why my next purchase would probably be the AR or snub-nosed !
I've started using this calculator here is the link.
https://drhansbrewery.com/beercarbonationcalculator/The link includes a video.
It seems to work very well for me.
My last brew was an Irish stout kit beer.
Irish stout started 29th of May with mangrove jack's number 2(1.4 kg) beer enhancer.
Made up to 22.5 l with the 2L of hubbard's still water and 2 l of chase spring ASDA still water
The rest was 14.9 l r o water.
Boiled 4l and chilled the rest to 3 degrees C.
Og 1.049 pitch two packs of M42 to at 23 deg C @4pm
31st May @ 7pm 23 deg C, 1.015 ,14psi Dry hopped.
Repressurised to 17psi.
6th June fg 1.009 @21c-24psi,
Abv 5.4 started Cold crash.
I hope that is some help to you
But no doubt there will be many points of view.

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