RoomWithABrew
Landlord.
Well said if your beer can't clear in that time it never will!!
Cold Crash ?
- Thread starter Motorhomebrew
- Start date
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It may indeed not be necessary, but it's a valid approach, at least.
Cheshire Cat
Landlord.
There’s opinion and there’s fact don’t confuse them.
trummy
Regular.
I would agree with DC - after brewing my bottles are pushed near the kitchen rad a couple of days then into the garage or pulled away from the rad. In the summer and the chilly now they take their chance. I do not use a 2ndry, a friend does but in back to back tasting no discernible difference. I do use a Ritche filter bag on syphoning. ('Keep it simple stupid' is the motto I adhere to.)
The yeast can make a difference some pack down near solid, others are like the old Shipstones that just like floating - I try to brew the solid brews as the motorhome can give the bottles a bit of a shake
The yeast can make a difference some pack down near solid, others are like the old Shipstones that just like floating - I try to brew the solid brews as the motorhome can give the bottles a bit of a shake
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I haven't been brewing for 50 years but it only took me a couple of years to find the benefits of the cold crash or cold conditioning. I go for the -1 C everything drops out leaving a clearer beer for kegging or bottling. Fining isn't needed which can strip colour and more importantly flavour. If I didn't have the fridge then yes I would be waiting for the beer to clear. Good thing about the home brew and speeding up the clearing process it can be consumed fresher.
AJA
Landlord.
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Lots of replies ruling out the cold crash. I've found it's very helpful with big dry hop quantities, where a non cold crashed beer could clog the lines. I can see it would also be helpful where the yeast is somewhat reluctant to flocculate.
moderate order
Active Member
My first home brew was very cloudy, so this time I'm cold-crashing (I built a fermenting fridge in the mean time). I've got it set to 2c, which results in vessel temps between 1.8 and 2.5.
From those who think CC is a good idea:
Is this low enough?
How long should I keep it at this temperature to acheive the desired result?
From those who think CC is a good idea:
Is this low enough?
How long should I keep it at this temperature to acheive the desired result?
moderate order
Active Member
great, thanks. Its been ~1.5 days since it reached 2c, so I'll probably keg it tonight
Er …. how do you know it’s “cloudy” if you’ve not transferred it into kegs?
Also, how long has this brew been fermenting?
Personally, I use the 2+2+2 system and rely on “Gravity + Time” to clear brews.
The system has worked over many years and I’m in no hurry to spend money to clear a brew!
:hat:
Also, how long has this brew been fermenting?
Personally, I use the 2+2+2 system and rely on “Gravity + Time” to clear brews.
The system has worked over many years and I’m in no hurry to spend money to clear a brew!
:hat:
moderate order
Active Member
This is my 2nd brew, the first one was very cloudy, so I'm trying CC this time.
Also when I extracted samples to measure the SG. Obviously this doesn't rule out just adding time, but that's not what I'm trying atm. I had already started the CC when I found this thread and posted.
For me personally, the experimentation is part of the appeal of home-brewing.
I applaud experimentation, so why not experiment with leaving it alone and see if it clears without Cold Crashing?
:hat:
:hat:
moderate order
Active Member
perfectly reasonable, but too late now. Next brew perhaps
moderate order
Active Member
the process as a newbie went something like:
have cloudy beer
google how to get clear beer
read results that suggest finings or CC
pick one.
have cloudy beer
google how to get clear beer
read results that suggest finings or CC
pick one.
Same here. I must admit, I tried finings and ended up with my cloudiest beer yet.
Cold crashing has given me good results, as has leaving it for gravity to do. Both valid methods, so don't be put off!
Hi, just wondering if you have added anything to aid clearing during brewing...such as Irish moss/protofloc during the boil? I've only CCed when making a larger brew, but only did it because it seemed like a good idea at the time. Unless I overcarb a bottle resulting in yeast getting into suspension when pouring, I typically have clear beer after a couple of weeks conditioning. Hope your brew turns out well
moderate order
Active Member
This is a kit brew, so no.Hi, just wondering if you have added anything to aid clearing during brewing...such as Irish moss/protofloc during the boil? I've only CCed when making a larger brew, but only did it because it seemed like a good idea at the time. Unless I overcarb a bottle resulting in yeast getting into suspension when pouring, I typically have clear beer after a couple of weeks conditioning. Hope your brew turns out well
If I'm being honest, another part of the point of trying CC after the fermentation was that it was easy to do; the vessel is already in a fridge, so I just had to lower the set temperature.
I'm going to re-use the same fridge as a kegerator when the brew is finished (the wife is yet to be pursuaded of the need for 2 beer fridges). Because I only have 1 beer fridge, if I want to have a constant supply of beer, then I'll need to brew the next one without the use of a fridge. So a CC will be out of the question anyway.
It's been about a year since I brewed from kit, and yep I can't recall having anything to add to help clear them. Someone may be able to suggest something, especially if you're going to lose the ability to CC. The brews I did with kits did take longer than my AG brews to clear, so you should be fine with longer conditioning time. However, if you are setting up a kegorater, does that mean you are putting your beer under pressure....I'm sure that will help with clearing? Again, someone else can help with that. Sorry, I'm just a bottler
The mistake you have made is that you asked first. In my experience, buy fridge first, then there's not much can be done other than keep it.
That said, I am now banned from "just nipping out to get something" as my wife is getting annoyed at the number of fridges and freezers I have come home with
I agree, but please remember that the people who sell kits are desperate for you to buy another one!
This is why they promise stupid times for Fermentation and statements like “Ready to drink in 5 days!” i.e. It won’t kill you!
Never forget:
“Patience is a virtue for brewing!”
I’m sorry but I agree with your wife for the following reasons:
- Drinking cold beer is an acquired affectation that became possible only when they invented fridges!
- Cold beer has been adopted by breweries in order to sell **** beer. The colder the better for dulling the sense of taste!
- Before the invention and adoption of refrigeration, a “good pub” was one that kept its cellar temperature a few degrees below “ambient”. Summer or winter it meant the beer was served at optimum temperature. (This was when we measured in Fahrenheit.)
- At the moment I have 20 litres of Cerveza fermenting, 10 litres of Ruby Red Ale and 20 litres of Lager drinkable, 20 litres of IPA and 22 litres of Red Wine conditioning and 10 litres of Rosé Wine ready to drink. I have only ONE BrewFridge!
“Plan ahead and enjoy the
journey that is Home Brewing!”
:hat:
journey that is Home Brewing!”
:hat:
