I have made an all grain Bass brew. I think its just about stopped fermenting now. In the liquid I have a lot of suspended stuff like grain bits. Does anyone know what i could use for straining it before bottling?? :
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Straining grain beer
- Thread starter chassyp
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phettebs
Landlord.
Are you sure it's grain and not yeast/trub? It's not too common to get grain into the BK let alone the FV unless you have a malfunction of some sort or faulty mashtun design.
Did you vorlauf (recirculate) before transferring from mash tun to brew kettle? This is the point you'd want to strain out any grain pieces. If some did make it into the BK, I'd have expected the transfer from there to the FV to leave any grain behind.
Did you vorlauf (recirculate) before transferring from mash tun to brew kettle? This is the point you'd want to strain out any grain pieces. If some did make it into the BK, I'd have expected the transfer from there to the FV to leave any grain behind.
will_raymo2000
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chassyp said:Na Its grain particles I`m afraid. :
Maybe you need to look at your sparging technique and maybe a manifold redesign? There shouldn't really be any grain particles by the fermenting stage as they should all be filtered out in the sparging stage or by the hop bed in the boiler.
Have you tried any finings? Not sure they'd work in larger particles but worth a punt
battwave
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I agree with your previous two posters. You should be looking to lose any grain or husk at the end of the mash in the re-circulation process, and any hops seeds and other bits in the hot break and post-boil re-circulation. If you aim for the wort going into your fermenter being as clear as bright as the final product you hope for, you won't go too far wrong.
It may sound painful, but once you've achieved it, it becomes second-nature on brew-day.
It may sound painful, but once you've achieved it, it becomes second-nature on brew-day.
Many thanks for those replies. Being on a budget I use a fine seive and small watering can to sparge. Obviously not fine enough. I looked at the sparging equipment but the price put mo off a bit. I guess I may try and make sommet. I`ll give the wifes tights a go with this brew. : :thumb:
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Chassyp, there's a superb guide to building an affordable mashtun in the link below. It's what I used to build mine, which cost me just over £20.
http://www.donosborn.com/homebrew/mashtun.htm
There is also a good Youtube video by the same guy showing how to mash and sparge with this equipment:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JMHLqnWCNjE
http://www.donosborn.com/homebrew/mashtun.htm
There is also a good Youtube video by the same guy showing how to mash and sparge with this equipment:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JMHLqnWCNjE
battwave
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chassyp said:Many thanks for those replies. Being on a budget I use a fine seive and small watering can to sparge. Obviously not fine enough. I looked at the sparging equipment but the price put mo off a bit. I guess I may try and make sommet. I`ll give the wifes tights a go with this brew. :
chassyp - you should look to your bed as the filter. I do use as sieve, but it's only to stop grains blocking up the holes in my sparging bucket. Worth looking at the links the previous poster provided.
Springer
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All good stuff above, a very simple and effective "sieve" can be made with four bits of copper tube with hacksaw cuts half way through every half inch, four elbows and a tee piece ? :? No need to solder it together 
Should have found a picture, they are worth a thousand words someone once said.
As said, its the grain bed that should do the work.
s
Should have found a picture, they are worth a thousand words someone once said. As said, its the grain bed that should do the work.
s
First of all, I hope you don't mean a dispensing tap like can be fitted to Cornies.
Anyway, I just ran 3" or so of 10mm syphon tubing through the wall of my coolbox. I attached the braided cable to the inside part with a hose clip and plugged the syphon tap into the outside end.
You can (just about) see the result here.
Anyway, I just ran 3" or so of 10mm syphon tubing through the wall of my coolbox. I attached the braided cable to the inside part with a hose clip and plugged the syphon tap into the outside end.
You can (just about) see the result here.
I got mine from here:
http://www.homebrewcentregy.com/Syphoni ... pment.html
http://www.homebrewcentregy.com/Syphoni ... pment.html
Springer
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:?chassyp said:
Most people ? make the hole bigger on the outside skin, remove a bit of insulation and only attach, the tap ? tank connector to the inside wall
Normal way is to use a tank connector drilled or filed so that a 15 or 22mm pipe can be pushed through it, inside use "whatever" to attach the strainer, outside use a simple plumbing ball valve, from BES or one of your local sheds if you don't mind paying through the nose. :lol:
S
Mark1964
Landlord.
After we boil we use a sieve when transferring wort to the fermenter that way any bits of grain get caught
BarnsleyBrewer
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You need to revise your mashing technique and re-design your filter systems....
The hop bed filter should've stopped most of it getting in..... :hmm:
Do you return the first few litres back into the tun and boiler?
BB
The hop bed filter should've stopped most of it getting in..... :hmm:
Do you return the first few litres back into the tun and boiler?
BB
