graysalchemy
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Double Pipe Chiller
- Thread starter graysalchemy
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Cyclops
Landlord.
Pretty simple Grays, 22mm outer pipe with a 15mm pipe in the middle, then just use the connectors to keep the water on the outside line and the product on the inside or viceversa.
Look up liebig condensors, used to use them in chemistry but can be used the same way to chill wort.
Look up liebig condensors, used to use them in chemistry but can be used the same way to chill wort.
graysalchemy
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Thats what the article was saying they are used in industry but not utilised in home brewing.
Cyclops
Landlord.
good thing about them is that you could have it hanging on a wall out the way, so don't take any space up really and its pretty easy to clean too.
jamesb
Landlord.
It works - I've been using one for years. Stainless inner pipe (3/8") and copper outer (15mm). Just used some 10mm braided pvc pipe with jubilee clips to attach the inners together.
tazuk
Landlord.
love it so simple to build :thumb: 
bobsbeer
Well-Known Member
It looks a lot easier to construct than my counter chiller. The copper pipe was a bugger to get in the hose. Although Aleman came along at the end and suggested filling the hose with water makes it easier. :lol: but this one looks easy to make but is more bulky. I wonder if reducing the inner copper tube would be better for hb use? Reduced flow would cool quicker and the pipe would be full. But less easy to clean.
graysalchemy
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I was wondering whether 10mm would have been more optimal. Also whether each length should be connected to the cold water supply separately in Parallel instead of series so to speak, though you would have to maintain the counterflow in each pipe which would increase the plumbing.
jamesb
Landlord.
I suspect if you connect them in parallel, you'd need to reduce the wort flow to cool it more as there's less time in contact with the cold water.
I have 6 x 1m lengths in series and I can cool 50l from boiling to 20°C in about 15-20 minutes.
EDIT: There was a reason I used 3/8" pipe instead of 10mm but I can't for the life of me remember what it was.
I have 6 x 1m lengths in series and I can cool 50l from boiling to 20°C in about 15-20 minutes.
EDIT: There was a reason I used 3/8" pipe instead of 10mm but I can't for the life of me remember what it was.
graysalchemy
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jamesb said:
I was meaning having the wort in Series but the cold water in parallel that should maximise the the effect of the cold water surely. :thumb:
jamesb
Landlord.
graysalchemy said:
Might work well.
IIRC Wasn't it Big Rab in Scotland who had this setup in copper . . . Ten 2m lengths of 22mm and 15mm inside . . . fixed to his wall . . . worked well with his 210L batches.
The only thing that I wouldn't like about them is the 'plastic' tube joining the segments together.
And yes feeding each section direct from the cold supply will drop the temp much quicker than sequential feeding.
The only thing that I wouldn't like about them is the 'plastic' tube joining the segments together.
And yes feeding each section direct from the cold supply will drop the temp much quicker than sequential feeding.
evanvine
Landlord.
For my "Rab Maxwell" chiller, a similar principle, I've used 15 and 22mm pipes.
Only you stick it in the wort.
I use it for maintaining ferment temp.
But then again I've probably missed the point!
Only you stick it in the wort.
I use it for maintaining ferment temp.
But then again I've probably missed the point!
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very pleased to read all this..
After a few samples one evening i bid on 10x10mm x 500mm SS tubes with a 0.2mm wall with making something very similar in mind tho my failled #1 attempt involved trying to join the 500mm lengths with silicone tube and threading it thru a wide bore 1" id flexible pvc hose, to create a pretty standard-ish looking coil cfc with 2 straight edges.. However i underestimated by a long way the length of wide bore tube needed to arc 180 degrees without kinking
back to the drawing board..
this was recently pointed out to me..
http://jadedbrewing.com/products/jaded- ... hiller-cfc
If im reading the blurb correctly its all copper and has a jacketed length of about 6ft.
so hopefully a circa 5m jacketed length in thinner SS tube may be of similar efficiency.
so looking at joining 10 tubes in such an arrangement needs 20 x jacket ends and feeds.
and as it seems a 15mm jacket appears functional, i would rather spend about £20 on solder capillary fittings than closer to £60 on compression fittings.
could i use common plumbers solder and flux to seal the copper jacket to the SS beer core? or would an epoxy like jbweld be better if using drilled thru solder fittings to seal the jacket to the tube?
After a few samples one evening i bid on 10x10mm x 500mm SS tubes with a 0.2mm wall with making something very similar in mind tho my failled #1 attempt involved trying to join the 500mm lengths with silicone tube and threading it thru a wide bore 1" id flexible pvc hose, to create a pretty standard-ish looking coil cfc with 2 straight edges.. However i underestimated by a long way the length of wide bore tube needed to arc 180 degrees without kinking
back to the drawing board..
this was recently pointed out to me..
http://jadedbrewing.com/products/jaded- ... hiller-cfc
If im reading the blurb correctly its all copper and has a jacketed length of about 6ft.
so hopefully a circa 5m jacketed length in thinner SS tube may be of similar efficiency.
so looking at joining 10 tubes in such an arrangement needs 20 x jacket ends and feeds.
and as it seems a 15mm jacket appears functional, i would rather spend about £20 on solder capillary fittings than closer to £60 on compression fittings.
could i use common plumbers solder and flux to seal the copper jacket to the SS beer core? or would an epoxy like jbweld be better if using drilled thru solder fittings to seal the jacket to the tube?
Jeltz
Landlord.
Looking at that makes me wonder if you could have a 15mm copper pipe connected with push fit elbows sat in a water bath with a drain and a spray bar above and a fan or 2 blowing the pipes so you are getting both the mains water coolness and evaporative cooling.
morethanworts
Landlord.
I knew this all reminded me of something....This in July
...which was a sort of combination of two ideas (straight concentric pipes, but immersion)
...which was a sort of combination of two ideas (straight concentric pipes, but immersion)
oldjiver
Landlord.
Plastic outer pipe, demijohn bored rubber plugs with the inner copper pipe pushed through, perfect seal. Easier than all that metalworkmorethanworts said:
Forget trying to join copper to stainless steel using standard flux, you need a really aggressive flux to work with stainless (The one I use contains 36% Hydrochloric Acid . . . and that is the strength of the acid not the amount in the flux :shock: ).Fil said:
JB Weld would certainly do it, Or I have seen a Loctite Superglue recommended, but can't remember the type number . . . it's not standard super glue that gives way at quite low temperatures.
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