Not an STC-1000

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looks like the first one I bought. Instructions and ALL paperwork is in Chinese.
Which aint too bad if youve wired one up before, but as a newbee it was a nightmare.
Finally got it working with a heater only...it lasted 3 months and now doesn't do a thing....

So ive gone for the " official " stc 1000 since..
 
hairybiker said:
Since it is a UK supplier you can count on a years warranty.
Click to expand...

Little known fact: Under EU law (we have a lot to thank the EU for, believe it or not) you are entitled to a "reasonable" warranty. So for a premium-priced wood-burning stove, think, what, 10 or 20 years? Regardless of what the manufacturer or retailer says.

For this product, I'd have thought 3 years was reasonable, but a look at previous court settlements would give a better idea.
 
The issue with the official one is that its rated at 10a so not really suitable for controlling an element. Which is why this one rated at 30a is interesting, however its pointless if they have a reputation for dying. Warranties are all well and good but trying to get a retailer to comply with EU legislation can take more trouble than the £10ish this thing costs.

Anyone else experienced the same as PD?
 
Well I'm no sparky so my calculations might be totally wrong but distant memories from O'level physics are W=IV so I=W/V

The element is 2.4kw so wouldn't that means that the that the ampage would be 2400/230 or 10.4 I would want there to be some tolerance built in to allow for drops in voltage.
 
Well my mains supply is 240V, measured with a known good MM (Fluke calibrated one).
I doubt yours will be different.

2400/240=10.
I have had no issues with running my kettle element from a 10A stc1000.
But YMMV.
 
I have bought a 12V version of this for the boat. Inside the boards are plugged together and the relay board shows the outlines of two different relay types. Mine was 10A so was the smaller of the two options. Therefore if this one states 30A I expect it has the larger relay soldered in.
Although it only has one pair of contacts you can select heat or cooling mode in the menu. Works my 12V fridge a treat. :thumb:
Menu structure is totally different to the STC 1000 and took a bit to get used to.
Graham
 
hairybiker said:
Well my mains supply is 240V, measured with a known good MM (Fluke calibrated one).
I doubt yours will be different.

2400/240=10.
I have had no issues with running my kettle element from a 10A stc1000.
But YMMV.
Click to expand...
I'm probably being over cautious, but I like things to run well with in their limits rather than at the edge. The "standard" changed from 240V to 230V nearly 20 years ago and my understanding was that, although nothing would happen rapidly, as transformers reached the end of their lifespan they would be replaces with 230V ones.

I haven't tested my mains supply but even if it was 240V today, sods law dictates that the day before I did my next brew the electricity company would have changed the transformer!

EDIT: Besides which I've the plans of a shiny upgrade with 3kw, bobbling around in the back of my head.........
 
Jeltz said:
Anyone else experienced the same as PD?
Click to expand...

Hi All
My experience is the opposite. I have an MF Refrigeration recirc cooler. Last November, its control unit died on me - the unit in question being a rather expensive Carel model. I replaced it with one of these WillHi units for a fraction of the price (5amp version, iirc).

The MF recirc jobby is hooked-up to a cooling pod to chill my beer, and is in use 4 or 5 days a week, once or twice a day. The temp controller is doing a great job. It keeps the fridge on until the coolant reservoir drops to the set temperature, then cycles the fridge on and off as the coolant gains then loses a couple of degrees. I had to lower the set temp during the hot weather, which it dealt with no prob.

I think they're the dog's oblate spheroids, and plan to use the 30 amp version to control my HLT :)
Cheers, Chris
 
They didn't, and won't change the mains voltage or transformers. All they did was declare the nominal voltage as 230 and widened the tolerances stuff has to work at ( -6%, +10% iirc) so it would work in any EU country.

Your mains will never be spot on 240 anyway. Depends on length from substation, local loading, etc.
 

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