Sparge Technique BIAB

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sunners1

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Hi all,
Peco Boiler BIAB
12.5l mash then 11.5l cold water dunk for a sparge

How does everyone else? What's most effective?
 
I do 18l mash and the put the bag on a colander on top of the boiler and pour 4-6l through the bag.
Then use a small pan lid to squash the bag in to the colander to get the most out of it.
 
I do 18l mash and the put the bag on a colander on top of the boiler and pour 4-6l through the bag.
Then use a small pan lid to squash the bag in to the colander to get the most out of it.
As Punch said "Thats the way to do it"
 
I don't sparge. For me, the whole point of BIAB is to do a full volume mash and save time and effort on sparging. I lose no more than 5% efficiency and my brew day is less messy.
 
13l mash (depending upon grain bill) and 15l at 75° for the sparge. No real hassle to be honest and the results are much better. Higher volume and gravity roughly the same, win win.
 
Approx 30L mash and 2 x 7L batch sparge at a higher than mash temp, in an old fermenting bucket.
acheers.
 
13l mash (depending upon grain bill) and 15l at 75° for the sparge. No real hassle to be honest and the results are much better. Higher volume and gravity roughly the same, win win.

In what way are the results much better? You get an extra couple of gravity points by sparging, but that is easily rectified by using slightly more grain to compensate. Fewer containers to clean and shortens the brew day significantly.
 
In what way are the results much better? You get an extra couple of gravity points by sparging, but that is easily rectified by using slightly more grain to compensate. Fewer containers to clean and shortens the brew day significantly.

I get a few more points but I get a lot more beer as well at that gravity, probably not far off 4-5 liters more.
Otherwise the quality is pretty much the same though it seems it is a little clearer.
More to clean, I don’t agree. The only thing to clean is the fermenter I use catch the wort but that needs to be sanitized anyway, so it’s just an extra rinse.
 
I sparge just to get the maximum out of my brew day. I only have a 30 litre burco boiler. So I normally have to sparge to get another 8-9 litres of wort to top up before the boil. Normally gets me on average 38 500ml bottles
 
I sparge just to get the maximum out of my brew day. I only have a 30 litre burco boiler. So I normally have to sparge to get another 8-9 litres of wort to top up before the boil. Normally gets me on average 38 500ml bottles
+1
I wouldn't fit the full volume plus grains in my 50L pot
 
If size is the issue then a top up with cold water at the end of the boil makes up the difference and speeds up the cooling process.

Brülosophy did a great podcast on this a year or so ago. Well worth a listen.
 
I'll brew 20L (bottled/kegged volume) in a 35L boiler.

No sparge 'cos I don't need the hassle and mess. Or want to spend another hour farting about with it. I'd disagree with those saying they get a drop of just a few points in gravity by not sparging: I don't think you notice any loss of gravity.

I'll brew beer up to about 1.050 using full-boil-volume-mashes, but may have to top up with 2-3L of plain water prior to boil.

If I want to brew above 1.050 (and keep the same volume) I will sparge. So I don't think there is a right or wrong answer; being flexible and adapting for circumstances seems key.

Unless you just love sparging that is?
 
If size is the issue then a top up with cold water at the end of the boil makes up the difference and speeds up the cooling process.

Brülosophy did a great podcast on this a year or so ago. Well worth a listen.
Have you a link I am always willing to try. :?:
 
I certainly experienced a drop in mash efficiency initially went I went no-sparge but since I've increased the amount of stirring at the start, middle and end of my mash my efficiency has gone back to around 75%. It definitely is trickier for a higher gravity beer. But saying that, I've managed 1.060 beers on my Peco with no problems.
 
Have you a link I am always willing to try. :?:

If you have Spotify, or use any other apps for podcasts, you'll find the whole lot of their podcasts on there. If not, then I'd imagine they will be available on their website. All free. I think the no-sparge one was episode 2.
 
If you have Spotify, or use any other apps for podcasts, you'll find the whole lot of their podcasts on there. If not, then I'd imagine they will be available on their website. All free. I think the no-sparge one was episode 2.
I will get a listen. I don't see sparging as a problem. I would normally do it as the wort comes to the boil. I don't think it adds that much time as your sparging at higher temps
 
I'll brew 20L (bottled/kegged volume) in a 35L boiler.

No sparge 'cos I don't need the hassle and mess. Or want to spend another hour farting about with it. I'd disagree with those saying they get a drop of just a few points in gravity by not sparging: I don't think you notice any loss of gravity.

I'll brew beer up to about 1.050 using full-boil-volume-mashes, but may have to top up with 2-3L of plain water prior to boil.

If I want to brew above 1.050 (and keep the same volume) I will sparge. So I don't think there is a right or wrong answer; being flexible and adapting for circumstances seems key.

Unless you just love sparging that is?

Agree, it depends on the circumstances. First came in touch with sparring was when I did an imperial stout 97 OG. Missed it by 03. But an amazing beer, if I say so myself.
 
When I did BIAB, I built a stand and frame, which held a small washing up bowl with the base cut out. I fitted the top of the bag around the bowl and sparged with a jug.
upload_2019-5-19_11-15-45.png

I never measured efficiency numbers, but this should extract more sugar from the grains than a dunk sparge.
 
For a 10L brew, I use a fine grind, mash with 6L water, then dunk into a small bucket with 7L cold water.
Then I squeeze the bag in a stainless collander.
This gets me 86% efficiency.
 

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