Baby Burco f33l boiler Help

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Pete21

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Hi, I have looked through the forum post and sort of got the answer but I'm not 100% sure (I don't want to screw this up). I want to bypass the trip out on the boiler , however electrics are not my forte , do I remove the brownish wire completely and put the blue one in it's place on the element, any help will be welcome, I can get more pics if need be. thanks
 
I used Baby Burcos for decades. Never let me down unless I used seeded hops, which clogged the element. Why do you want to modify it?
 
I used Baby Burcos for decades. Never let me down unless I used seeded hops, which clogged the element. Why do you want to modify it?
I need to remove the heat sensor to stop it tripping out at 91c degrees so I can get a rolling boil, someone gifted me the burco and it has a 27lt capacity so it's all good for my brews,(once I get my ass in motion) PS An Ankoù I used some more of those aramis hops with goldings in an IPA, very nice,
 
Sounds great. I'll give it a try. What was the rest of the recipe?
it was a kit , bull dog premier ipa with 25grm of aramis in a tea bag boied for 10 minutes after 5 days in the fv bag and all and then 25grm of goldings and 25grm of aramis in a tea bag boiled for 10 minutes just before I bottled it, it has a really nice sharp hoppy taste
 
All i did on my boiler was to move the temp sensor from the bottom plate. It still trips out if left on without any water in it but maintains a rolling boil. I cant see the sensor on yours though.
unfortunately there is no movable sensor, thanks
 
from those pics i cant even see a temp cutout switch.
all i can see is the power inlet socket and a switch, wired in to the element in the centre. If that is the case, you shouldnt need to do anything else.
 
from those pics i cant even see a temp cutout switch.
all i can see is the power inlet socket and a switch, wired in to the element in the centre. If that is the case, you shouldnt need to do anything else.
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do these help
 
There is a circuit diagram here with wiring colours - https://www.hygienesuppliesdirect.com/files/static/burcomanual.pdf

The wire colours may be different - but the Earth will ALWAYS be Green/Yellow.
UK live is BROWN

UK Neural is BLUE

Switching is usually on the Live, as well as thermal cut outs. Neutrals are usually commoned and not switched.....but not always.

A switched live is usually red or orange. Heating element wires can be anything.
If this is what you are looking at then the thermal cut out is integral to the heating element, and you would need to connect to the element itself rather than the spade connector.
burco-washboiler-hot-water-heater-element-3000w-3kw-with-nut-and-gasket-[2]-173-p.jpg

Probably the inside of a choccy block with screw terminals may work, but that area gets very hot - so soldering or most plastics are unsuitable.
High temperature wire should be used (the type sold for immersion heaters), and now you have removed the temperature safety feature - you should really fit another one rated at about 120°C to allow for boiling but cut out if run dry. This will not be easy.
Any modifications you do are at your own risk.
 
There is a circuit diagram here with wiring colours - https://www.hygienesuppliesdirect.com/files/static/burcomanual.pdf

The wire colours may be different - but the Earth will ALWAYS be Green/Yellow.
UK live is BROWN

UK Neural is BLUE

Switching is usually on the Live, as well as thermal cut outs. Neutrals are usually commoned and not switched.....but not always.

A switched live is usually red or orange. Heating element wires can be anything.
If this is what you are looking at then the thermal cut out is integral to the heating element, and you would need to connect to the element itself rather than the spade connector.
burco-washboiler-hot-water-heater-element-3000w-3kw-with-nut-and-gasket-[2]-173-p.jpg

Probably the inside of a choccy block with screw terminals may work, but that area gets very hot - so soldering or most plastics are unsuitable.
High temperature wire should be used (the type sold for immersion heaters), and now you have removed the temperature safety feature - you should really fit another one rated at about 120°C to allow for boiling but cut out if run dry. This will not be easy.
Any modifications you do are at your own risk.
So it looks like the easiest option is to drill the kettle and fit an extra element that is pid controlled to get the rolling boil temp then? (boy it's hot here)
 
View attachment 19876 View attachment 19877 Hi, I have looked through the forum post and sort of got the answer but I'm not 100% sure (I don't want to screw this up). I want to bypass the trip out on the boiler , however electrics are not my forte , do I remove the brownish wire completely and put the blue one in it's place on the element, any help will be welcome, I can get more pics if need be. thanks
I have the same boiler, it can maintain a boil no problem and has only tripped once?
Has it happened a lot?
 
I have the same boiler, it can maintain a boil no problem and has only tripped once?
Has it happened a lot?
it gets to 91 to 94 degrees and the thermostat kicks in and it stops boiling (the boil is a simmering boil) then once the temp drops it will start to heat up again and so on, to brew I need a rolling boil for an hour (or so I have read)
 
it gets to 91 to 94 degrees and the thermostat kicks in and it stops boiling (the boil is a simmering boil) then once the temp drops it will start to heat up again and so on, to brew I need a rolling boil for an hour (or so I have read)
Is there a lot of crud on the bottom plate? Is your wort cloudy? That will often stop it boiling.
 
It says in the destructions that any build up on the element may cause it to trip early. You may just have an over zealous cut-out. You could try replacing that with a new one and see if it reaches a boil. Probably safer in the long run.
 
Is there a lot of crud on the bottom plate? Is your wort cloudy? That will often stop it boiling.
the boiler was gifted to me, it has not been used for beer yet as I am cleaning it and getting it ready to use, the heating element is clean and heats the water up ok (the pictures are of the underneath of the boiler that houses the electrics and does not come into contact with liquids), it is the thermostat trip out that I want to bypass, the thermostat is not broken in fact it is doing it's job as it was meant to. as I explained I want to bypass this so I get a continuous rolling boil,
 
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