The Mixed Fermentation Thread

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Looking good!

Out of interest, how much aged hop did u use last time? Why would you say that that's too much?

According to my notes I used 70g of aged hops. I cant remember where I worked this out but I have a feeling it was less. Can't be sure though. As i have not developed any acidity after 6 months I thought I may need less hops. First time using the yeast though so I really have no idea.
 
According to my notes I used 70g of aged hops. I cant remember where I worked this out but I have a feeling it was less. Can't be sure though. As i have not developed any acidity after 6 months I thought I may need less hops. First time using the yeast though so I really have no idea.
Ah, thanks for that. The Michael Tonsmeire recipe I was looking at adapting (https://www.themadfermentationist.com/2012/09/stolen-microbes-lambic-with-3-fonteinen.html) uses a similar amount of aged hops. From what you say, I might consider scaling back to ~50g
 
For my first ever lambic I followed the recipe in Brewing Classic Styles which suggested 80g of aged hops. But this was far too much, they actually added a lot of bitterness even though they were well aged (about 3 year old I think). The next couple of batches I dropped it to 50g which seemed a better amount.
 
I thought mine added some bitterness too but it was hard to tell. The Bible recipe for a Flanders red is 20 IBU. I would of thought this is too high so I am going for 15g in my next batch. Can always boil more later. Also reading if you make a starter the bugs will grow much faster.
 
I've got some dregs from d lambic dreg megamix I brewed last year, plus a Brett lambicus ready to pitch, so hopefully that'll go off nicely.

Never fermented with aged hops in my mixed ferments though, only small amounts of fresh, so a little unsure how much to wang in (esp. as I don't even know what the 'aged hops' I bought a couple of years ago are...)
 
Drinking a Flanders red-ish tonight. This was pale DME and maltodextrin with steeped crystal malt, fermented with Brett Lambicus and Lacto Brevis. It’s very sour and a little one dimensional but not bad at all. I’ve got a few bottles which I added red grape concentrate, need to try one of those.
 

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Tested my golden sour and oude bruin the other day, the golden was down a bit from 1.018 to 1.014 since March, tastes nicely sour and some good funk in the background, but that's still a very high FG for something brewed last december. It has tiny bubbles when you look closely and a pellical is slowly forming as of the last month. This was fermented with Opshaug kveik and Roeselare.

The oude bruin is tatsing much better than in March, decently sour and the funk is more of the fruity and earthy style which is more my thing than farmyard, however it's still sitting stable at 1.014, it was 1.020 when the assorted bugs went in, a mix of dregs and a commercial brett blend. Surely it can't be safe to bottle a sour at 1.014, can it?
 
Bottled my 6 month old Bretted Porter (Claussenii) last weekend, giving the Oak chunks that had sat in it, a rinse off and dry ready for the next brew.

Today I brewed a Stock Ale that'll be secondaried with the Bretty Oak for 6-12 months.

Mild Malt 71%
Maris Otter 12.5%
Aromatic Malt 12.5%
Smoked Malt 3%
Flaked Barley 1%

Hopped at 90,60, 30 and 0 minutes with 4x25g of First Gold to 70 IBUs.

I'm giving it an initial ferment with MJ Liberty Bell, which will take it to around 5% before the brett gets to work in a corny keg.
 
Brewed this afternoon.
Flanders Red V2

4kg Maris Otter
300g Munich
400g crystal rye 90l
150g crystal
250g wheat
125g unmalted wheat
100g maltodextrin
100g melanoidin

15g aged hops

Roeslare surry made into a 1l starter. Took 36 hours to show signs on activity. Will be pitching all of it and some planterum capsules at the same time.
This will be a raw beer but i heated the wort up to 90c to make sure its fully pasteurised.
Will rack it into a fermonster after a couple of weeks so i can see whats going on.
 
I’m currently culturing up some bottle dregs from some ‘Orford Quay’ by Little Earth Project. I emailed them to see what yeast they used,

‘Orford Quay was primary fermented with lab Belle Saison yeast then secondary fermented in the barrel with our mixed culture so there will be a mix of yeasts in the bottle’

I’d like to brew a full 5 gallon batch and use the same yeast but I don’t want to age it in a plastic FV, is bottling after the usual two weeks an option or am I likely to experience a cupboard full of potential bottle bombs?

Cheers
 
I’m currently culturing up some bottle dregs from some ‘Orford Quay’ by Little Earth Project. I emailed them to see what yeast they used,

‘Orford Quay was primary fermented with lab Belle Saison yeast then secondary fermented in the barrel with our mixed culture so there will be a mix of yeasts in the bottle’

I’d like to brew a full 5 gallon batch and use the same yeast but I don’t want to age it in a plastic FV, is bottling after the usual two weeks an option or am I likely to experience a cupboard full of potential bottle bombs?

Cheers
Bombs. Get a glass carboy.
 
I’m currently culturing up some bottle dregs from some ‘Orford Quay’ by Little Earth Project. I emailed them to see what yeast they used,

‘Orford Quay was primary fermented with lab Belle Saison yeast then secondary fermented in the barrel with our mixed culture so there will be a mix of yeasts in the bottle’

I’d like to brew a full 5 gallon batch and use the same yeast but I don’t want to age it in a plastic FV, is bottling after the usual two weeks an option or am I likely to experience a cupboard full of potential bottle bombs?

Cheers
As @IainM says: we're likely talking bomb-central!

BUT, it does depend on the SG at bottling time. Every gravity point will contribute ~0.5 volumes of CO2, so if you bottle at 1.004 FG, that's 4 points, which (provided all the gravity comes from fermentable sugars) will be fermented by the bugs and release ~2 volumes of CO2.

This is pretty risky though and the 'natural' FG of your beer (even with Brett and LAB) might be a fair bit over 1.000, so undercarbing is an issue.

I'd definitely advise against it and recommend some glass carboys! :)
 
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Got a vial of WLP650 Brett Bruxellensis in a recent brewuk "lucky dip" yeast order, total Brett newbie so not really got a clue what to do with it :laugh8:

Keen to give it a go though, any tips or recipe suggestions?
 
Got a vial of WLP650 Brett Bruxellensis in a recent brewuk "lucky dip" yeast order, total Brett newbie so not really got a clue what to do with it :laugh8:

Keen to give it a go though, any tips or recipe suggestions?
If it were me then it'd be an Orval clone for sure. It's a simple recipe (pilsner, medium crystal malt, table sugar, noble hops for flavour, aroma and dry hop) ferment as normal with WLP510 then pitch the 650, wait a month or so and bottle acheers.
 
If it were me then it'd be an Orval clone for sure. It's a simple recipe (pilsner, medium crystal malt, table sugar, noble hops for flavour, aroma and dry hop) ferment as normal with WLP510 then pitch the 650, wait a month or so and bottle acheers.

Ah thanks, not had an Orval in years but I seem to recall I enjoyed it :beer1:

May have to get some pilsner malt in as I only have a sack of maris otter and various crystal atm, but I did also get a pack of WLP550 (the Achouffe strain I think) which I could probably use as an alternative to 510 if not going for an accurate clone?
 
Ah thanks, not had an Orval in years but I seem to recall I enjoyed it :beer1:

May have to get some pilsner malt in as I only have a sack of maris otter and various crystal atm, but I did also get a pack of WLP550 (the Achouffe strain I think) which I could probably use as an alternative to 510 if not going for an accurate clone?
There's a view amongst beer historians that when they started brewing Orval in the 1930s, they were trying to replicate English Stock Ales of the time, so using what you have wouldn't be too out of place.
 

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