Stalled Fermentation?

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Hi Everyone,

Just making my first brew and think I may have also made my first big mistake!

I'm using a Festival brew kit, Razorback IPA, I followed instructions and left the wort to ferment for 5 days before adding dry hop pellets for a further 5 days. I was then supposed to take a hydrometer reading but, as my FV was stored inside a converted under-counter fridge and access was limited, I decided to syphon off into 2nd FV which has a tap before taking the reading. The reading has now stalled at 1010 for 3 days with no sign of activity in the airlock. Instructions say not to bottle until reading settles at 1005 so not sure what to do now.

I think I may have transferred too early and stalled final fermentation?

Is there anything I can do or should I just leave it a bit longer?
 
BorysBrock said:
Hi Everyone,

Just making my first brew and think I may have also made my first big mistake!

I'm using a Festival brew kit, Razorback IPA, I followed instructions and left the wort to ferment for 5 days before adding dry hop pellets for a further 5 days. I was then supposed to take a hydrometer reading but, as my FV was stored inside a converted under-counter fridge and access was limited, I decided to syphon off into 2nd FV which has a tap before taking the reading. The reading has now stalled at 1010 for 3 days with no sign of activity in the airlock. Instructions say not to bottle until reading settles at 1005 so not sure what to do now.

I think I may have transferred too early and stalled final fermentation?

Is there anything I can do or should I just leave it a bit longer?
Click to expand...
Take hydrometer readings on successive days. If the reading is stable for 3 days in a row (still at 1.010) then it should be done. 1.010 is a fairly usual finishing gravity for most ale yeasts (1.005 is quite low but is possible depending on the yeast). What yeast did you use? Leaving it another few days anyway won't hurt.
 
Far more likely is that your beer was finished fermenting after five days and not stalled at all. Plus you did five more days before transferring? I would say everything is fine and it is safe to bottle since you already took three readings and your FG remained at 1.010.
It's useful to know your fermentation temperature in situations like these.
Getting spot-on readings with kits can be done but nothing to worry about here. One example of what may have happened is your actual OG was higher than the kit OG. In this example, 1.010 would be what you'd expect.
 
Thanks Guys,

Not sure exactly what the yeast was David (Heath) as it came with kit.

Fermentation temperature was between 21.5 and 23.5 centigrade David (fromUS). I fitted a temp control unit to a small heater and the fridge and taped the sensor to side of FV to keep temp as constant as possible

Much appreciate your help.

I'd better get back to cleaning my bottles now :-)
 
Your beer has likely finished, and is now ready to bottle over the next day or two.
If I were you you I would reduce your temperature settings next time. 21-23*C is quite high especially if you have temperature control in a brewfridge, so 19-20*C would have been better.
Hope it turns out OK
 
I agree, reaching 1.010 means your fermentation is likely finished, especially if it stays at that level for a couple of days. Personally I take an OG reading, then let fermentation run for 14 days without being disturbed except for dry hopping 3 days before reaching day 14. I check for regularly for airlock activity during the first week and that’s about it. After 14 days fermentation is complete, I don’t even bother checking FG, I just assume the value the manufacturer says the yeast should have reached has been reached, I use a pitching calculator to ensure I pitch enough yeast. I let my kegs or bottles condition for a week, two if you have the patience. I do have a brew fridge so I can keep temperatures under control. After 30 brews I’ve never had a brew that tastes sweet, I’m really happy with the results. I don’t know of any dry yeast that will ferment below 1.010 so it sounds like you’re good to go....
 
Hi Terrym, thanks for your advice.

I set my brewfridge controller to 22.5 with a 1 degree variation each way as beer kit instructions suggested keeping temp between 20 - 25 c. I added the variation so heater/fridge didn't kick in too often, also I placed sensor inside a bubble wrap pocket taped to side of FV to further reduce temp fluctuation. Would you recommend I set controller to 19 degrees or 20 degrees and with less of a temp variation allowance for better results?

Thanks also Keruso, I'm now going to check out what a pitching calculator is :-)
 
BorysBrock said:
I'm now going to check out what a pitching calculator is :-)
Click to expand...
I've been brewing off and on for 50 years and never used one.
If you are doing kits the manufacturer usually supplies the correct amount you need to ferment your beer, except if its an old Muntons produced kit with a miserly 6g which struggled to ferment out anything above about 19 litres, or if you ferment a lager using a kit lager yeast, and wish to ferment at low teens temperatures in which case you are advised to add an extra packet of lager yeast. And if you buy dried yeast separately the packet will tell you what it can and cannot do. And I guess the same goes for liquid yeasts.
 

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