Youngs American IPA brew.

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Andybiker

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Hi all,

Can someone help me with my second brew please?
I've just finished an Evil Dog IPA which I had a few bottles of last weekend. Whilst it's ok it still has a slightly plasticky homebrew aftertaste.

First question is what could have caused this?

I've currently got a youngs American IPA on the go in the FV. Initial Gravity was 1059 and after 12 days it's currently at 1010.

However I did have some issues with the Krauzen going into the Airlock so made a slight modification (see below images)

20191103_224441.jpg

I've just tested gravity 12 days in and its 1010 but still very cloudy and very bitter (although the bitterness is fine)

I did initially use boiled water in my modified airlock but found a small dead fly so replaced with vodka. The airlock was only out for a matter of seconds.
Do you think this is likely to have caused infection?

I have yet to add the hops.

Thanks in advance.

20191114_220239.jpg
 
You're over thinking it pal!
Bang the hops in, give it another 3 days, cold crash for at least 48hrs, then bottle/keg 2 weeks warm, 2 weeks cold minimum! Drink or leave longer baring in mind dry hop profile will diminish the longer it's left! There's a sweet spot the fun is finding it!
 
This kit can take a long time to finish fermenting. I suggest you leave it until the SG has reached 1.008 or even lower and that might be nearer three weeks rather than two. And when its finished fermenting you can then add the hops. In short don't be tempted to rush it.
Your exploits with the airlock are unlikely to have caused an infection or made your beer any more bitter than it actually is which is, in fact if I remember correctly, quite bitter as beers go, and perhaps not to everyone's taste. Further, beer in the FV can be very different to a mature beer properly conditioned.
So certainly don't give up yet and in the meantime read what others thought of this kit and what they did with it here
https://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/threads/youngs-american-ipa.45221/
(and yes, that's correct, over 1000 posts on this kit beer in this thread alone)
 
One thing regarding cold crashing (which I've never done before) do I add the hops, then immediately cold crash for a couple of days then still in the FV bring back up to room temp and bottle, leave bottles in secondary (in warm room for a couple of weeks) then move bottles to garage or something?
This is what I did with the Evil Dog ( except the cold crash bit)

Cheers.
 
I my experience that kit can take a month to hit fg. Test it in another few days if it's dropped any more I'd consider the dry hop for around four days then cold crash it if you like
I never warm it back up for bottling just keep the bottles at room temp for a week or so then bung em in the shed. It's a great kit though!
 
Follow the advice of terrym and Clint, they know what they are doing!!

I also found the Youngs kits to take 3-4 weeks to finish fermenting. I leave most kits for 2 weeks, dry hop for 1 week then bottle but the Youngs ones take 3+ instead of 2.
 
One of my favourite beer kits, got one ready to brew at home. Not quite sure what you lot are doing to need it to ferment for 4 weeks though! Whenever I've done it the yeast rips through it (20 degrees in a brew fridge) but I give it two weeks anyway before adding the hops. After adding them I go 2 days at fermenting temperature, then set the fridge to cold and bottle / keg 24 hours after that. It is very bitter as observed.
 
So @Graz what fg do you hit - like many others mine went off strong but pretty much staggered over the finishing line.
 
So @Graz what fg do you hit - like many others mine went off strong but pretty much staggered over the finishing line.

Whilst I don't have an exact figure, as I rarely write these things down, I do remember the first time I made this being quite surprised as to just how low it did go! But on tasting I could tell why.

I guess as I usually prime in the bottle or barrel I've never been that worried about a brew being a point or so higher than expected just so long as it hasn't stuck at 1.020 or something daft like that (Muntons!). Probably should pay more attention now I'm starting to use Cornies.
 
Whilst I don't have an exact figure, as I rarely write these things down, I do remember the first time I made this being quite surprised as to just how low it did go! But on tasting I could tell why.

I guess as I usually prime in the bottle or barrel I've never been that worried about a brew being a point or so higher than expected just so long as it hasn't stuck at 1.020 or something daft like that (Muntons!). Probably should pay more attention now I'm starting to use Cornies.

Think you are safer in the cornies.
 
Hi guys,

Tested the other day and it seemed to still be around 1010. I put my brew belt on it as it went a bit cold.

It then went a bit warm tbh at around 28c for a couple of days but airlock started to bubble again.

Checked today and seems to still be at 1010.

Should I add hops now or shall I leave longer without belt and see if it drops further?

Cheers.
 
Hi guys,

Tested the other day and it seemed to still be around 1010. I put my brew belt on it as it went a bit cold.

It then went a bit warm tbh at around 28c for a couple of days but airlock started to bubble again.

Checked today and seems to still be at 1010.

Should I add hops now or shall I leave longer without belt and see if it drops further?

Cheers.
There was a similar post about this kit and SG today and my reply is here. In short get the hops in....
https://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/threads/youngs-american-ipa.45221/page-55#post-855366
 
Thanks mate. I guess I should wait for it to cool a little first. Maybe down to 22 or so.
 
Hi guys.

For my next brew I'm going to get another FV and batch prime.

Couple of questions tho.

For this brew how much of the supplied priming sugar do I add to my 500ml bottles and how much should I add to the bucket when batch priming?

I know there are batch priming calculators but i dont know how much Co2 I need.

Thanks
 
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