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I’ve just received my FS from the malt Miller - I’m seriously looking forward to using it later this week. Can I ask how you other FS users fill them, from the top or the bottom? I will be transferring my wort from the boiler via a pump.
Mine came yesterday, and i am wondering the same thing. I see Angel Homebrew have the following.
https://www.angelhomebrew.co.uk/en/brew-devil/364-brew-devil-to-fermentasaurus-filling-hose.html
Is it overkill when you can just squirt it straight in? With it, I suppose you could fill the FS with CO2 first and the wort would displace the air via the spunding valve to leave just CO2 above??
 
Thanks, I was wondering about making a hose connection via the barg at the bottom, or maybe looking at having a play with putting a 1 inch ball valve on at some point. I didn’t get the pressure kit - I’ve had a few years away from brewing so didn’t want to over complicate things for my first few brews till I’m back in the swing of things.
 
I’ve just received my FS from the malt Miller - I’m seriously looking forward to using it later this week. Can I ask how you other FS users fill them, from the top or the bottom? I will be transferring my wort from the boiler via a pump.
I just go straight into the top with a length of silicon tube from the kettle tap
 
Bumping this thread as id be interested to hear how everyone is finding the FS, i'm getting some oxidised notes when doing juicy IPA with loads of wheat/oats and hops and the FS seems maybe the easiest way to reduce oxygen. I would probably just use it for these juice bombs and stick with the stainless Brew bucket for everything else.

id be very interested to hear from those who've been using them for a while!
 
Bumping this thread as id be interested to hear how everyone is finding the FS

Last 10 brews been done in an FS. Wouldn't go back to a bucket. Use a "tasty profile" under pressure (10 psi at 10c) for lagers - raising slowly to 14c for d rest. transfer under pressure to corny. My brews have been much better and more consistent since using an FS. You will certainly eliminate oxygen.
 
Last 10 brews been done in an FS. Wouldn't go back to a bucket. Use a "tasty profile" under pressure (10 psi at 10c) for lagers - raising slowly to 14c for d rest. transfer under pressure to corny. My brews have been much better and more consistent since using an FS. You will certainly eliminate oxygen.
I agree, the quality improvement in going to a no O2 exposure during ferment and then a purged Co2 transfer to kegs has made a massive difference in raising the quality of all of my beers. Plus i never see a dark brown NE style beer of mine any more using this equipment. That to me is a win.
 
How useful is the dump valve on these? I noticed on aliexpress there are a couple of versions available without the dump assembly, which looks good from a cheaper and easier to keep clean perspective?
 
All of the above is true. I have done a brew in a bucket and another in a FS , the FS comes out better every time. so much so i am hoping for two new ones for birthday and xmas.

yes their on ali express and the cooling heating coil is also. ive ordered the coil and am going to try and retrofit it into a frementasauraus.
 
How useful is the dump valve on these?

Its not great - don't think about adding dry hops via the bottle for example. But its fine for dumping out yeast and makes saving some yeast for the next brew really easy, although it can take several hours for a compacted yeast cake to work its way through the valve and into the collection bottle.
The dump valve on the fermzilla looks much better
 
Its not great - don't think about adding dry hops via the bottle for example. But its fine for dumping out yeast and makes saving some yeast for the next brew really easy, although it can take several hours for a compacted yeast cake to work its way through the valve and into the collection bottle.
The dump valve on the fermzilla looks much better

Thanks, I just realized I got this thread mixed up with the Fermzilla one but I guess the same applies - the version I've seen without the dump assembly is actually a variant of the Fermzilla:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000344425077.html

Edit actually this one looks like the pressure rated version https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000339926964.html

Haven't seen it from any UK retailers yet, but it could make for a cheap introduction to pressure fermenting if you're happy to go without the dump valve?
 
Its not great - don't think about adding dry hops via the bottle for example. But its fine for dumping out yeast and makes saving some yeast for the next brew really easy, although it can take several hours for a compacted yeast cake to work its way through the valve and into the collection bottle.
The dump valve on the fermzilla looks much better
Not really any need to dry hop through the dump valve, dry hop when there are a couple of points left to go, release the pressure unscrew the top and put them in. The co2 will not move out of the fermentor
close the top and cap the spunding valve.

Thanks, I just realized I got this thread mixed up with the Fermzilla one but I guess the same applies - the version I've seen without the dump assembly is actually a variant of the Fermzilla:

Edit actually this one looks like the pressure rated version https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000339926964.html

Haven't seen it from any UK retailers yet, but it could make for a cheap introduction to pressure fermenting if you're happy to go without the dump valve?

That version pictured in the link is not set up for pressure for a cheap introduction to pressure fermenting this is ideal for the same price, comes complete with pressure kit.
GetAttachmentThumbnail

I use this one with a bigger capacity.
002.JPG

If you already have a Fermentasaurus you can upgrade quite cheaply to this. No dump valve can have a tri clover fitting or bottle connected to it.
GetAttachmentThumbnail
 
Right, i thought the fermzilla was the second genertion FS, but the fermenter King is the FS2 and fermzilla is a spin off - have i got that right?

so reading through this thread and the other one i am not sure whats best.

Foxy- on the other thread you say that you should only really consider getting one if you want to ferment under pressure. i don't intend to that but what appeals is limiting contact with oxygen with a closed system that enables, kegging under pressure and purging dry hops before adding.

How does the plunger work on the FK and what are the draw backs with the butterfly valve? dont all the best stainless conicals have butterfly valves?
 
Right, i thought the fermzilla was the second genertion FS, but the fermenter King is the FS2 and fermzilla is a spin off - have i got that right?

so reading through this thread and the other one i am not sure whats best.

Foxy- on the other thread you say that you should only really consider getting one if you want to ferment under pressure. i don't intend to that but what appeals is limiting contact with oxygen with a closed system that enables, kegging under pressure and purging dry hops before adding.

How does the plunger work on the FK and what are the draw backs with the butterfly valve? dont all the best stainless conicals have butterfly valves?
The butterfly valve will have to be periodically stripped down, not every time but maybe every 3 or 4 brews the plunger system is a simple idea, cleaning is easy, and with the option of the tri clover fitting for dumping the trub is worth while. I prefer the trub not going in the fermenter full stop, but with this method one can allow the trub in the fermenter then dump it into a bucket when or just before pitching the yeast.
As for kegging under pressure then you will need to pressurise the fermenter which you would do at the final stages of fermentation, presuming you brew ales, adding the dry hops just open up the top and put them in just before you cap your spunding valve. The co2 already in the fermenter will not make a rush for the opening when you take off the lid and the air will not make a rush to go in as the pressures are equalised at 1 bar.
I have the snub nose fermenters and when dry hopping have a secondary already with the hops in, the vacating co2 from the primary goes through the secondary and into a blow off tube. Hops and secondary are then sanitary before the transfer. Would be a cheaper option to get the snub nose, even two, providing you can keep the trub out
 
The butterfly valve will have to be periodically stripped down, not every time but maybe every 3 or 4 brews the plunger system is a simple idea, cleaning is easy, and with the option of the tri clover fitting for dumping the trub is worth while. I prefer the trub not going in the fermenter full stop, but with this method one can allow the trub in the fermenter then dump it into a bucket when or just before pitching the yeast.
As for kegging under pressure then you will need to pressurise the fermenter which you would do at the final stages of fermentation, presuming you brew ales, adding the dry hops just open up the top and put them in just before you cap your spunding valve. The co2 already in the fermenter will not make a rush for the opening when you take off the lid and the air will not make a rush to go in as the pressures are equalised at 1 bar.
I have the snub nose fermenters and when dry hopping have a secondary already with the hops in, the vacating co2 from the primary goes through the secondary and into a blow off tube. Hops and secondary are then sanitary before the transfer. Would be a cheaper option to get the snub nose, even two, providing you can keep the trub out

The last point about keeping the trub but also with hop debris.

I have had issues before with blockages just doing a gravity transfer. With the massive amount of dry hops for NEIpas, doesn’t the liquid in port get blocked with hops debris? How do you avoid this? If if hops are in bags or ss cages I imagine a fair amount will still get through?
 
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