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Sorry I couldn't help with your previous post i dont have any experience with this matter. A quick Google and it might of been early stages of mycoderma which sulfiting should have hopefully killed. You should really sulfite the wine soon after fermentation has finished to protect against any...

I move all my brewstuff to the kitchen when it's time to rack etc just do it as carefully as you can and it's best to do it 2-3days before you rack to let the sediment resettle Also graz has it right just leave in primary for at least 2 weeks then rack prime and bottle

A chelating agent will stop dirt from re-sticking and will also keep the minerals from your water in solution

Oh then that should be simply that the tablets are not 100% MBS, tablets are normally made with fillers to make strong substances easier to measure and binders if needed to keep the pill as a pill That is the case for all pills iirc

Sounds good to me. Don't worry about Campden tablets, when you make a wine from fruit you add them before fermentation, once fermentation has completed and before bottling so I really wouldn't worry about adding them once.

How come you left the Sorbate out? The Sorbate Sachet would have contained the metabisulphate needed, if you didn't want the Sorbate and have so far not put any MBS in then go ahead and rack onto 5 crushed Campden tablets, I always Dissolve my sulfites and MBS in a little water for easier mixing

Something you'll have to figure out yourself depends on your water really try 10% to start with

Depends on the situation if there is fruit etc in the fermentation bucket stiring will help extract the juice from said ingredients and stop it from drying out You can also put fruit in straining bag so they can be squeezed daily Stiring daily will also help degas the carbon dioxide produced...

Not sure but I don't think ice lollies ever go off so I don't see why not

Lucky for you I have one in my room right next to me

I get the warnings as well on chrome and firefox I just ignore them and continue(for eckraus) not a problem so far but im not recommending you do that. Use the Internet at your own risk :/ I think personally they must just have some certificate issues

Don't be worried about the gap you really only need to worry about that when bulk aging for months As for degassing they tell you to do it with a spoon several times a day for 4 days etc as most people don't own a drill degassing tool. With the drill tool you dont have to degas for days just...

There should be absolutely no problem with stiring the must everyday as the recipe suggest. Just make sure your hands and spoon etc are cleaned and sanitised and you should be fine Oh and your recipe lists no Pectolase this may not be required but you may want to add some next time to aid in...

Don't forget fermentation will lower the ph slightly

For those of you thinking your refractometer is "off" I refer you to my post from his thread Ps I use a cheap ebay refractometer they work perfectly http://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=65715&page=2 As far as I'm aware brix and plato are close enough that they are exchangeable...

Plus you could always blend them if it its not up to scratch

I use stpp just because it was cheap and didn't fight with the ph too much. Don't get it confused with tsp it is not the same

1 tsp really isn't enough to notice http://www.eckraus.com/4-oz-glycerine-99-5.html?key=1476935248634252415 As you can see from the above link DOSAGE: Use between 1 and 3 tablespoons of Glycerine for each gallon of wine, or between 2 and 8 ounces of Glycerine for each 5 gallons of wine...

Only been a month could always put more sugar in

If you do use oxy/pure sp they both leave a film/residue/mineral deposits if you have water as bad as ours. I would highly recommend using a chelating agent with it