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Hi Pete, long time. Looks like the new administration has removed edit facilities. Even with my new hub cap false bottom I slowly build up the flow rate and don't start the recirc for at least 10 min after mash in. I'd have to measure but think flow rate would be about 1.5l/m maximum.

I keep trying to make golden and hoppy ales but am struggling with the 'hoppy'. I'd love it to be like punk ipa.

It did actually as it turned out to be more worn than I expected and haf to replace piston and glass cylinder with parts from angram but you can pick up used working ones on ebay for 30-40quid. Oh I had to buy a check valve for 22 quid and some john guest fittings.

Thats a beautiful looking Keezer, don't think mine would be allowed in the living room so I've remoted it to my downstairs loo.

Link to setting cheap REX-C100's from china with PT100 probe http://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/showpost.php?p=147632&postcount=12

I can also send you 'pdf' of manuals and info I got from some guy in Australia on settings. His manual for the 'proper' ie. not chinese copy showed how to access the setup but the values didn't match my unit (eg, his manual said 1100 for Pt100 but I found what worked by trial and...

The instructions with the PID aren't quite correct or complete. I got some better instructions after hunting around on the forum, think I've got a link to it somewhere but to select PT100 with the cheap chinese 'REX C100' I think you need to set the 'LCk' value to '1000' to allow changes...

Truly a thing of beauty. Looks expensive to fabricate but I like it better than my recently retired 10mm x10m in hosepipe effort. Loving my salvaged DHW HX from my dead combi boiler now though.

Dj the chiller is jusk like the plate chillers you can buy, needed a bit of fettling to get it connected up with pipes

Cant remember how this thing works now false bottom cooler, pinched from my deceased combi boiler DHW heat exchanger now looks like this

Hello, it's been a while. First brew since last August. Made some modifications. A new 'false bottom' made from a stainless steel truck hub cap found by a road.

Just my 2 penneth, I counterflow chill directly into FVs (not conical) and ferment on the cold break. Beer is OK. My FVs are not sealed/airlocked and if I delay kegging/bottling at end of ferment they quickly go sour (lost some brews due to bad planning) . Result is a fair amount of suspended...

Hi Pete, Long time... Not done much (successful :oops: ) brewing for a while myself but up for some more Malt if you're going to Murphys in next couple of months. I got a GP 20/12 from Norm last year after the old twin GP (don't remember number) pump fractured in the big freeze, Jan 12...

In theory, 2-4 days. Better to use more than one bottle as there's sometimes very little yeast in them. I started a FV of about 25L with a bottle of 'Proper Job' yeast on Sunday afternoon and I'd started it off on Friday night with bottled wort from my previous brew. Another day would have been...

Cheers, I've dropped him an email to see what he's got.

Went to do first brew after the cold snap and found the Totton GP pump leaking when I went to draw liquor. :wha: So, I pulled it apart and found the right hand end fractured by frost. Araldited the broken part over night. put back together, failed again. So, as the pump has 2 separate...

2 metres should do it, think thats about what mine is, it's all I could fit in the kettle.

Use your campden tablet but, if you're using a chlorine based sanitiser, it's very likely to be the culprit. Rinse, rinse and rinse again. The tiniest amount of chlorine knackers a brew.

They are suspiciously similar to the domestic hot water heat exchangers found in combi boilers. I keep thinking about posting on freecycle asking for an old boiler but worried what I might get :rofl: . Would take some serious de-scaling and cleaning. Plumbing it in could be a challenge too. My...