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I like your thinking but am not convinced it's the way to go. You'd be better off controlling your temperature via, in an ideal (homebrew) world, building a brew fridge and then choosing your yeast to suit the flavour profile you're after.

I'd give it another 12hrs just to be sure.

I made a gasket from silicon tubing (i.e. a short length thereof) that fit snuggly over the 10mm copper tube and snuggly inside the hose. I then used a jubilee clip to ensure the whole sandwich was water-tight.

Wasn't trying to scare you but rather let less experienced brewers on here make their own informed decision about whether to rehydrate or not.

If it was out of date or had been stored incorrectly this wouldn't have helped but the same could probably be said for the kit yeast. Yes but I have never 'proofed' my rehydrated yeast.

Kit instructions are written to make their preparation as simple as possible. Pitching dry will generally work but it far from best practice and will not give you the best results. When pitching dry, 50% will die on first contact with your wort as the yeast cannot distinguish nor therefore...

Did you re-hydrate your yeast before pitching? I ask as pitching dry will kill half of it upon contact meaning you'll have significantly under-pitched thereby making a stuck brew more likely. Bottom line: Re-hydrate dry yeast.

No but 'Graham's Water Treatment Calculator' aims for between 200ppm and 370ppm depending on Pale Ale style, i.e. sweet, dry or Burton.

Well, I'm stumped. I can only assume (a) your mash didn't convert any sugars or (b) your hydrometer is broken. Sorry, no idea.

I'm really confused. What approx weight of grain did you mash?

If you used spray malt it's not all grain. That said, an OG of 1.010 is worryingly low... is that pre or post boil? Either way, if it's correct, you're in trouble. How long did you mash for and at what temp?

The sediment is the yeast that has fermented in the bottle and dropped out of suspension.

Yes. As you compress it the cross-section diameter increases so it'll easily fit over 15mm copper pipe. p.s. you can buy just the braid on eBay so no need to butcher a connector.

I use a mash tun rather than BIAB. Good luck on your first AG.

Saturday's impending brew will be #19. You won't look back. There are a few good recipe's for Hoegaarden in the Recipe section. Pitty's your man if you want to brew with wheat.

It could have fermented out or you may have killed the yeast. Either is salvageable though the effects of the high early temperature might not be.

You'd need to increase the amount of bittering hops used as the utilisation will suffer at the higher SG but otherwise sounds OK. Will the ice be sufficiently 'clean'? No reason it shouldn't be, just asking.

Hops left too long in the FV (when dry hopping) can impart a grassy taste. However, you're only talking about a few and they'll have been boiled to death anyway. In short, I wouldn't worry about it. At the same time, if you're concerned, you could easily fish them out. Again, I wouldn't be too...

In that case I'd say your brew is in real trouble. The early stages are the most sensitive to temperature and 37degC is way way too high. It's likely to have a strong taste of solvents from the fusel alcohols created at the higher fermenting temp. These are also rumoured to contribute to...

Could be. How much colder are we talking about? If it was significant it could certainly have cleared faster and is much more likely (IMO) than any variation there may have been in water treatment.