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I've brewed for 12 years living in both a very hot flat and an old cold house never using a fridge. As others have said most styles can be done by using the temperature of the seasons to help Summer brewing - I have done high temp (22-28c) wheat beers and saisons taking advantage of what...

I agree with what others have said regarding wheat beer and carbonation levels. If you are determined to go the keg route though in the pubs I worked in the kegs of wheat beer (namely erdinger) were always stored upside down. It was only when the keg came to be connected it was turned the...

You want to mash thicker than 3L/kg I think, mine were done at 2.5L/kg and I've read in some places that this is considered thin for a barley wine. You'll have lots of space in a 50L mash tun, my 9kg ones have been done on something around 30L.

I do this for all my strong beers. On my system 9kg grain bill get me 3ish gallons of barley wine/ imperial stout first runnings and 4gallons of 1.040ish second runnings. Not done it in a while but next time I may "cap the mash" and add 1kg of grain in with my sparge water to make the second...

I've used this with good effect in the past to help carbonate strong beers that have been in secondary for a few months. I also have a barley wine in secondary that will receive a packet of this in the bottling bucket when it comes round to that; but thank you you've reminded me to order some...

You won't get any bittering from the hops with dry hopping you need the heat of boiling to extract that. The risk of dry hopping for long periods is that you can get vegetal green grassy type flavours in your beer. By now the hops will have added their aroma so yes you can either bottle or put...

I would mash the grains and use the hops if they've been sealed or stored well but I wouldn't trust liquid yeast that old. I would also make a darker beer like a porter or stout where I am requiring the hops mainly for bittering and the darker grains are more likely to mask a slight off flavour...

I've only ever used Maris Otter as a base and have made stouts, porters, IPA's, belgians, ambers, bitters and barley wines and never had a problem or failed to replicate a style because of the malt. They should be used as soon as possible but i've made beer from stuff that's more than a year old...

The grains you talk of throwing out are used in such small quantities that i cannot see the issue in using old grains. Even in a meagre 3kg grist with for example 100g of chocolate malt it only works out at 3.33% of the grist will it really make such a negative difference to the beers 96+% of...

I use my pale ales to make the batter whenever I do homemade fish fingers. I use darker ones in pie fillings and stews and I made a smoked maple syrup beer last year from the starting point of "A beer I want to cook a ham in". Also used reclaimed yeast for bread making but that wasn't great, the...

I do all grain and have 2 books. I have one notepad that I use for planning recipes and approaches and work out hop additions and scrible any idea down. I also use it to write down everything on brewday like actual temps or if i struggle with something incase I need to recall it later. It looks...

Yes definitely be on the cautious side with flavourings in beer. From experience it's easy to ruin a batch by going over the top. However, if you don't add enough you'll still get a nice wheat beer you'll just know to up the leaves a bit next time.

Just wait until you have gallons and gallons knocking around and people come over and you can almost give them a full wine / beer menu. My main tip for you if you're just starting out and all excited is to buy a cheap notepad and WRITE EVERYTHING DOWN! when I was first starting out I made a...

The few (admitedly cheap) kits I did before switching to all grain all had the same familiar "twang". This was irradicated overnight when I switched to AG and i've not had it since

What styles were you pitching into and how did these vary? were the mash temps the same? The attenuation could be down to these factors rather than the yeast.

My guess is that it is impossible to know and adapt applying your hop oil to recipes. Is there any information on the label and is it meant for brewing? All hops that brewers use usually come with a percentage of alpha acid on them and it is this that adds the bitterness to beer when boiled in...

I bought a plastic handled demi john brush. It wasn't the best bit of kit and the plastic handle snapped off leaving the twisted metal wire shaft. This turned it into the best demi john cleaner as now I fit it into my Bosch cordless drill fill the DJ up with warm water and some bicarb. less 2...

Munich. Used in pale ales and IPA's 1kg in the place of 1kg of maris otter in a 5G batch adds greater depth of flavour and maltiness to help balance the hops. I've bought enough in to do a pale ale that's just 95% munich and 5% wheat malt to see if this is too far or will be even better. It's...

Munich will add a greater depth of malt flavour and give your beer a better malty backbone for the hops to work off. I replace a kilo of maris otter (23L batch) with 1kg munich in every light beer I do now and have noticed the improvement. I am going to do an all munich IPA as my next brew to...

I think it does oxidise but with wine adding campden tablets to supress the yeast also somehow help prevent oxidation. I never de gas my wines I just leave them in the demi-johns for longer and all the gas finds it own way out.