Search results

It's the metal model, which I bought when I first started out all grain brewing. Capacity is around 27L and the heating element is approx. 1.7kW. Hop filter included. It's done around 10-15 brews and then I got the stainless bug. In very good, clean condition. £75. I don't want to risk...

if you've just transferred the beer from the fermenter and primed it, you shouldn't need the C02 for now. i'd weigh the cylinder to verify that it's not empty and if it contains gas then its either the cylinder valve or the valve on the keg that's faulty

you could go q max cutters or starrett hole cutters. typical tap size is 1/2" bsp for which you'd need a 21mm hole. you could make washers from silicone sheet. for heating elements the hole sizes vary depending on the element.

i usually find that for most brews primary fermentation is complete within a week. secondary fermentation probably accounts for the remaining time

as long as you managed to control the temperature during fermentation then it should be OK.

hi, i'll take the insulated pot if you still have it? collection from Leeds no problem. cheers jk

have a look at the bombay ipa recipe posted on jbk by scarer. well worth brewing

i suggest getting one or two recipe books. the Graham Wheeler book 'Brew Your Own British Real Ale' has recipes which attempt to achieve beers in the style of a variety of commercial examples and would be a good starting point. another book you might consider is 'Real Ales For The Homebrewer' by...

the books you've bought are great books but are now a little dated; Dave Line was a true pioneer and inspired many home brewers to try all grain brewing. in my experience the quality of beers produced using this method cannot be matched with kits or extract; the downside is the extra...

i brew to achieve 25L of packaged beer and have a 100L HLT, 50L MT and a 70L boiler; loads of spare capacity but my pots are around half full which kind of feels safer to me than filling them closer to the brim. of course I can brew larger batches if I wish but then I don't get to...

I would have expected to see signs of fermentation by now. Did you re-hydrate the yeast before pitching?

here's one approach http://uk-homebrew.tripod.com/id45.html

have a look on the malt miller website. wide range of whitelab yeasts and instructions for preparing a starter. hope it goes well

i'm quoting from instructions for the cooper's australian lager which brianc says are the same as the european lager. no mention of lower temperature for a lager yeast

coopers seem to recommend a fermentation temperature range of 21-27C, for optimum results. if you can achieve this then I'd go ahead. obviously the fermenting wort will achieve a temperature which is a few degrees above the ambient air temperature in your kitchen and your kitchen will be cooler...

3.5-4g / litre dextrose (or sugar) for priming, 2 weeks at 18-20C then a further two weeks in a cooler place and then try it. it should improve if you leave it longer.

i'd rack off the clear beer, batch prime and add some more yeast then bottle. hope it turns out well.

check out john palmer's advice http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter11-4.html

try this guy http://powellbrewing.co.uk/index.php?route=common/home

can't say for sure but it seems unlikely you'll find a hbs open in manchester today. what do you need?