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I use newcastle brown ale bottles as in my opinion they are some of the strongest bottles out there. However they are clear but thats usually not an issure as i store them in the garage.

I use 15mm but, if you've got a 22mm set-up use that. you can always adjust flow with the ball valves. Only question would be have you got 22mm pipes to connect to it with? I know all mine are 15mm I/D

that would help, but you need to keep the ice topped up. a good way of doing it is to keep 500ml bottles of water frozen and change them before you go to work, when you come home and before you go to bed to maintain a steadyish temperature

yeast is a funny thing, as long as you don't add too much (2tsps) you won't get a real yeasty flavour. However, if you've added some it will start but may take longer as it multiplies experientially. i would recommend 1tsp for a 20L batch. need to get mine on shortly! probs tomorrow!

don't put extra yeast in at the mo, may give off flavours that you don't want. What do the instructions say on the packet about final gravity? how much sugar did you add to the wort in the beginning? What temperature are you fermenting at? Have you calibrated your hydrometer? it will have a...

24 does sound a little high. i would take it down to 18-20 preferably. :thumb:

Also you should always calibrate your hydrometer with your test jar. And you take that reading for 1.000. It's safe to bottle I would say. Take normal water not boiled and see what you get tomorrow. If it's the same as boiled your hydrometer is slightly out. Make sure you keep a note of it for...

Yes, I would use beer enhancer, half dme and brown sugar if I recall correctly

They work ok, used then in the past. Mine flared out at the bottom too.

Anyone else had the same problem as me, the pid ssr output is 8vdc and pitiful current. I had to put an interposing relay to switch the ssr at 240vac. Bit annoying as I had to wait for the relay to come from America.

Are you sure you have mixed everything together properly? Whereby never usually goes that wrong. Maybe giving it a good stir for 5 full minutes then taking another OG reading. Failing that if you want it 1042 you will have to add more fermentables. Use beer enhancer if you do as it won't make...

I emailed them asking about it and here is the response: Hello John. The beer is hopped with Amarillo and Centennial and all hops going in during the last 20 mins (no bittering hops) then a big dry hop of the same. The malts in the beer are Munich as base malt then Aromatic, Biscuit, Special B...

moving any fermented liquid will cause some more co2 to escape. best to move it and leave it 24hours for everything to settle then rack. don't worry about it mate. :thumb:

think you can only post pics after 15 posts, post another post then try

Another popular one is Burton Ale yeast

A larger yeast is designed to ferment a lower temperatures for longer, from about 5 - 12degrees C. You will see a krausen and it may last the whole duation of the fermentation. I usually ferment my largers at 10 degrees for 1 week then drop it down gradually to 2 degrees (or as low as i can...

i use one of these for a HLT and have 2 elements, just to heat the water up quicker. works a treat. i use a PID to control 2 ssr.

After it's fully fermented, transfer into secondary fv, then leave in the cool for a week per every 10 gravity points it dropped. So if it went from 1045 to 1010, leave in the cool to condition for 3.5 weeks. After rack it again then bottle with sugar Nd bring into warm for 2 weeks. After the...

+1 for matty! the hole family goes ape at me, they make me boil outside now which takes ages!