Ace electric boilers?

Discussion in 'General Beer Brewing Equipment Discussion' started by winstonia, Jun 17, 2015.

  1. Mar 21, 2017 #621

    BeerCat

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    Done another brew today and the system worked perfectly. I had to take my pump apart again the other night as it got clogged so decided to add the y strainer on again. This time i added a tap before it and 18" of pipe and worked a treat. Absolutely no problems at all. Celebrating now with a beer. [​IMG]
     

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  2. Mar 22, 2017 #622

    Bigcol49

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    Hi BeerCat,
    Have you worked out why your pump is getting clogged?
    I conditioned the grain for the first run of the "system" and had absolutely no problems with the pump. Conditioning is supposed prevent the grain hulls from getting torn up in the mill (or at least reduce the tearing), thereby making a better filter bed.
    I also underlet the grain, which meant I could put the unmilled flaked barley in first to build a filter bed (I was brewing a milk stout).
    I followed your advice and didn't install the Y-filter. Why do you think it works fine now that it's been repositioned?
    I was expecting lots of pump problems, but everything went smoothly.
    I've modded the ACE to connect up the 900W element. I'm going to put a voltage regulator into the circuit to make the 900W element adjustable - once the full boil is achieved I'll dial down the 900W element to get a decent rolling boil.
     
  3. Mar 23, 2017 #623

    BeerCat

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    Hi Col. I was bored so took the pump apart again to check what was inside it. It was not blocked but there were a few biys in there and its a real pita to clean. Took me ages to get it back together. I didn't realise the spindle had been turned after a few beers.
    This time there were no bubbles building up in the pipe which i have always had before. I think having all those parts so closely together caused them (restricted the flow) and this time the motor did not labour at all. Was also much easier to clean the filter just by running water through. I will let you know how my next run goes but its looking promising.
    With the PID you don't need a voltage regulator as you can control it from the unit. Go to the "run" function you can adjust it for manual and automatic. Then you can dial in the power amount on the main screen. Its a really cool function. Hope you can follow my explanation. Feel free to ask if you don't.
     
  4. Apr 12, 2017 #624

    stringybob

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    Just ordered one of these - the current one with the grain bag, false bottom and 3 heat settings. The last few pages on this thread seem to be dedicated to adapting the boilers with pumps etc. which I have no intention of doing. Just after feedback from anyone using this as a simple BIAB as I am intending on doing? Any tips, anything you would change?
    I will mash full volume to get 25lt pre-boil. Do I need to set the thermometer during the mash so the heating element kicks in to maintain the heat or do the insulated walls maintain the heat well enough?
    After I chuck out the grains I was intending on using the bag again for the hops in the boil (I know it has a filter but I have done this with my current stock pot which works fine with pellets).
     
  5. Apr 13, 2017 #625

    BeerCat

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    It should maintain temps pretty well if you wrap it up. Stir halfway through and add a little heat if needed. I found the bag was a pita to clean so never used it for hops Would be handy to have 2. You could mash without the bag and clean up before boiling. That avoids the bottom plate getting scorched and burned beer. Happened to me more than once and can also cause a cut out during the boil.
     
  6. Oct 26, 2017 #626

    BeerCat

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    I have looked for replacement washers for my ace boiler and cant find any. Not sure exactly what size i should be looking for either but its around a 19mm hole. Its a flat rubber washer i am after which goes on a 1/2" NPT thread but the hole is larger. I have tried the round washers but they leak. Only a little but not suitable for this particular pot.
     
  7. Oct 26, 2017 #627

    Bigcol49

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    Hi!
    Have you tried cutting washers from cheap silicon cake "tins"? I've used them and they produce a perfect seal.
     
  8. Oct 27, 2017 #628

    donchiquon

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    Try these:

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B0...6_SY340_QL65&keywords=sourcingmap+30+x+19+x+3

    :)


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  9. Oct 28, 2017 #629

    BeerCat

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    @BigCol Sorry thought i had already replied. Something i should get and keep on hand. I have not tried to make anything like that yet so maybe it will take me back to the good old days of making balsa models. Thanks
    @donchiquon Thanks for the link. Ordered a pack.
     
  10. Nov 18, 2017 #630

    robjmills

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    dumb question probably - but it seems to have 2 power switches, 900 and 2500. What should I use??
     
  11. Nov 19, 2017 #631

    nigelnorris

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    2500 is for quickly heating water pre-mash, and for quickly getting up to boil post-mash, though the 1600 setting is probably better for maintaining the boil. The 900 setting is for making small adjustments to the temperature, during the mash for example a little heat is better than cranking it up and burning the grain.
     
  12. Nov 21, 2017 #632

    slark

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    I bought one about 6 months ago, only a 12l but, so far it's been very good. SS quality is excellent
    Thermostatic control works perfectly to keep sparge water at 77 degrees.
     
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  13. Nov 21, 2017 #633

    BeerCat

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  14. Dec 4, 2017 #634

    BeerCat

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    Very stupidly threw away the false bottom with the grains!:doh: Gutted! Anyway i need some ideas for a replacement and i will also need one for my buffalo boiler as well. Cheers.
     
  15. Dec 4, 2017 #635

    Bigcol49

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  16. Dec 4, 2017 #636

    donchiquon

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    I had a similarly expensive quote from the ACE suppliers and decided to use it as an excuse to buy another of the (earlier) £99 ACEs as an HLT. Not a bad price for a replacement false bottom and HLT.


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  17. Dec 4, 2017 #637

    BeerCat

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    Thanks for the link Col. They do a 20" square bit for £26, Thats 304 stainless which i presume is the one. How could it be cut? Would it need a torch? My mate has a garage so i could ask him.
    Don your right they are cheap but none in stock. I already have a 40l though so that may end up as the mashtun, the ace a hlt and get a 70l pot. Anyway i could of done without that, i got sidetracked and forgot to take it out of the bin bag.
     
  18. Dec 4, 2017 #638

    Bigcol49

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  19. Dec 5, 2017 #639

    BeerCat

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    Nice one Colin. I reckon i could get away with 300 x 400 and cut it with a hacksaw or maybe get a dremmel. A piece siphon tube around the outside might work and half a dozen large bolts to stand it on.
    Just came across this even cheaper stuff https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2mm-Hole...d=151867053221&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

    This sounds a bit carry on but could someone measure their false bottom for me, and the hole size? :mrgreen:
     
  20. Dec 5, 2017 #640

    Bigcol49

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    Hi BeerCat,
    The ACE false bottom is 280mm diameter, so you will get one from a 300x300 sheet. The holes are 2mm on a 4mm pitch, so very close to the aluminium. The legs are 70mm tall, but that's not so critical. If I were making a false bottom I would add a leg in the centre - wet grain weighs a lot.
    The aluminium cuts easy enough with a hacksaw; I would try it with a jigsaw fitted with a fine metal blade.
    One further tip - don't throw the baby out with the bath water :whistle:
    PS One US site says this about aluminium pans for boiling wort:
    "Simply boiling a batch of wort will not remove enough metal from your aluminum pot to get into your beer and cause metallic off flavours, particularly if you build up a passive oxide layer inside the pot first. For new pots, this is easily achieved by either boiling the pot full of water for 30 mins to one hour, or by putting it in your oven for 10 mins at 350 F."
     
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