Its Harris Pure Brew, it works to eliminate Chloramine and Chlorine from your brewing water, which could otherwise react with the yeast during fermentation. It also claims to feed the yeast. I use it to get rid of that 'homebrew taste'. Get it from lovebrewing.co.uk or the homebrew shop.co.uk
Really interesting article! It helps explain why a beer I did recently that had a lot of adjuncts which although converted well to sugars, was difficult to ferment. Probably exacerbated by the recipe using Kevik yeast which is super aggressive.
I've just read about that on behalf of a mate who wants to try a partial mash kit: a Dark Rock Tribute to Batham's Bitter.Its Harris Pure Brew, it works to eliminate Chloramine and Chlorine from your brewing water, which could otherwise react with the yeast during fermentation. It also claims to feed the yeast. I use it to get rid of that 'homebrew taste'. Get it from lovebrewing.co.uk or the homebrew shop.co.uk
It's about £3.75.
Actually I'm not sure what you suggest the issue is with DAP (diammonium phosphate)? Google says it is a source of nitrogen, which is exactly what your quoted article says is required for full fermentation.I use the malt miller repack of this SERVOMYCES | Lallemand Brewing
You use 0.01g per litre, so the repack of 30g lasts for many years.
I'd just double that dose for kviek, although I am unsure what nutrients they actually need over normal beer yeasts.
The problem with using wine nutrients and the usual homebrew nutrients is that they tend to be DAP based which is not what you want for most beers. See this
Use it at double the rate the manufacturers recommend for beer - as seen from this thread, different products are used at different rates. But you want to be generous in this case because you're using kveik in a low-gravity wort, and kveik needs feeding. This article from Escarpment suggests kveiks generally consume around 180ppm FAN (ie a lot) when fermenting a 1.053 wort at 20C.Pick up this old thread. I'm brewing the Cashmere DDH recipe from Malt Miller.
It uses Kveik yeast at 35c so is a strong fermentation. The recipe calls for "Boil additions: 10 mins Yeast Nutrient x 2"
What does that mean? I would usually not use any nutrient so x2 means nothing to me.
The one thing you've got to be careful of is nutrient containing zinc, as the optimum window for zinc is quite narrow and it's easy to overdo zinc. Eg De Nicola & Walker 2018 on lager fermentation "Zinc impacted fermentation performance, with wort zinc levels required for optimal fermentation ranging from 0.48 to 1.07 ppm...Flavor congener profiles appeared to be affected only at high zinc levels of 10 ppm, with elevated concentrations of higher alcohols and some esters (ethyl caproate and isoamyl acetate) observed". Don't get too hung up on those exact numbers, read them as more than 0.05ppm and less than 4.85ppm. Those numbers came from Raffaele De Nicola who had previously done an entire PhD on zinc and yeast funded by Heineken so again looking at lager yeast. From memory ale yeasts prefer a bit more, something like 2-5 ppm?I now use yeast nutrient in all my beers. If it's not necessary, then it doesn't do any harm either.
I asked a similar question.Does anyone have experience on using yeast from previous batches as yeast nutrient? If so, do they have reliable information on dosing rates and risks to be aware of?
As I recycle yeast through overbuilding starters, all my post-fermentation yeast goes down the plug hole, which always brings a tear to my eye as it seems such a waste.
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