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Ninja7

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Hello there been a reader on hear and used all your info for last 3 years . Done many kits no probs with the guides and info on hear .

Just after christmas i done a brewfern strong blonde with cultured duvel yeast starters . All went to plan bottled and largering now in cold .

A week after putting down the blonde i done another brewferm but the tripple and with the chimay wyeast smack pack also with starter .
The starting gravity was 180 and took nearly 4 weeks to fement at 23 temp and finished at 110 then cold crashed for week just like the duvel blonde then batched primed 160g sugar just the same as for the duvel.
2 weeks later the 1 pet bottle i always use to see how hard is still swished in not hard .
The rest of the 30 clear swing top bottles only got a tiny bit of yeast at bottm . They dont seam to be carbing up . The room is set at 22 and iv few nights put up higher still no luck . Tried gentle shake all bottles nothing .
Do i leave one more week or do i confess iv had my first fail and yeast has giv up and pour all bottles in a bucket and add a packet mango jacks m41 dry yeast i got laying around .
Thanks sorry long post .
 
I've only done one Belgian but it took way longer than 2 weeks to carbonate. I was also worried about the test PET bottles, was advised to wait as this was normal.

Now a couple of months on it pours a nice thick, white head...
 
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Any heavy beer will take a long time to carb up, and of course letting it sit with four weeks will remove even more yeast. I had the same with Imperial Stouts (which is even more difficult due to the dark malts). That is why I always a little bit of bottling yeast.

However, how soft are your bottles? Do you feel there is a difference with just being filled?
 
Hello thanks for replys .
Sorry got it wrong they have now been carbing up 3 weeks tomorrow .
All bottles are glass part from one pet . The pet and other bottles have a tiny tiny ring of yeast round edge at bottom but nothing like the 1000s of other bottles done in past where whole bottom is yeast. The pet bottle is as the day i filled it , still pushed in and not hard at all. Wot made me think the yeast must died off being a 1080ish drink ..
The duvel blonde bottles and the test pet bottle carbed up around start 2nd week they also was a 1080 sg and out the duvel bottle yeast coltured .
 
Hello thanks for replys .
Sorry got it wrong they have now been carbing up 3 weeks tomorrow .
All bottles are glass part from one pet . The pet and other bottles have a tiny tiny ring of yeast round edge at bottom but nothing like the 1000s of other bottles done in past where whole bottom is yeast. The pet bottle is as the day i filled it , still pushed in and not hard at all. Wot made me think the yeast must died off being a 1080ish drink ..
The duvel blonde bottles and the test pet bottle carbed up around start 2nd week they also was a 1080 sg and out the duvel bottle yeast coltured .
They will definitely carb up, it just might take a while. With a strong brew it is a good idea to add new yeast when you bottle it. But a 1080 brew shouldn't kill all the yeast, especially one that is adapted to high gravity, like the Duvel strain.
 
I've been skeptical about cold crashing before the bottles are carbonated, dropping the yeast out.
I don't cold crash and just use "time" to clear the beer.
Also, unlike what some others have mentioned, golden/light colored, high ABV beer carbs within a week or so for me. It's the dark, high ABV beers that take a very long time in my experience.
I think keeping them warm and patience is the best route.
 
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