Best place for PID thermometer in electric mash kettle?

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Galena

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I am in the process of building an electric BIAB system in a 56 litre pot.
I will be using a malt basket, a 2.5kw heater element and will re-circulate the mash with an electric pump, there will be a bi metal strip thermometer a little above the drain tap.
I will be controlling the temperature with an Inkbird iPB 16-s and am wondering the beat place to site thermostat, currently thinking of having a T piece just before the recirculation goes back in the top of the mash, but could equally go just after the drain tap or for that matter in the kettle itself.
Does anyone with experience of such systems have any strong opinions on the best place to site the Inkbird thermometer as it controls the power of the heater?
 
Here go: Pumps and PIDs :thumbsup:

You are creating a "one-pot" system (RIMS). I actually use my Grainfather system as an emulated "BIAB" setup (full-boil-length-mash and no-sparge). The "malt-tube" is only a rigid "bag".
 
Here go: Pumps and PIDs :thumbsup:

You are creating a "one-pot" system (RIMS). I actually use my Grainfather system as an emulated "BIAB" setup (full-boil-length-mash and no-sparge). The "malt-tube" is only a rigid "bag".
Many thanks for that, I nearly contradicted you until I read to the end wink... so B and D in a one pot RIMS are pretty much the same, fortunately easy to place a T piece in both locations and try them both.
 
I am in the process of building an electric BIAB system in a 56 litre pot.
I will be using a malt basket, a 2.5kw heater element and will re-circulate the mash with an electric pump, there will be a bi metal strip thermometer a little above the drain tap.
I will be controlling the temperature with an Inkbird iPB 16-s and am wondering the beat place to site thermostat, currently thinking of having a T piece just before the recirculation goes back in the top of the mash, but could equally go just after the drain tap or for that matter in the kettle itself.
Does anyone with experience of such systems have any strong opinions on the best place to site the Inkbird thermometer as it controls the power of the heater?
I thought a bimetallic strip was just a on-off contacter.
 
You may be better off replacing the bimetalic thermometer with the inkbird probe also 2.5kw isn't a lot for that lot size.

If the probe isn't in the pot you could get local overheating.


Aamcle
 
You may be better off replacing the bimetalic thermometer with the inkbird probe also 2.5kw isn't a lot for that lot size.

If the probe isn't in the pot you could get local overheating.


Aamcle
No it isn't a lot of heat but I am going off somebody elses design so I believe it will work, may just be a bit slower coming up to temperature. I have considered putting the Inkbird probe in that spot and there is always the option to swap it out.
 
... I have considered putting the Inkbird probe in that spot and there is always the option to swap it out.
Having the probe in the pipework, not the main vessel, is fine. You are recirculating through the pipework so what can be the problem? The position will always be a compromise, just go with whatever you are most comfortable with. If you position the probe in the main vessel, it can tell lies like the probes in these one-pot systems. But folk who own one-pot systems may believe anything the system tells them. I am an owner of a one-pot system (Grainfather), but it seems I'm not so deluded by what it tries to tell me.
 
If you position the probe in the main vessel, it can tell lies like the probes in these one-pot systems.
I currently use a Klarstein Fullhorn which has a probe in the bottom of the vessel, it certainly tells lies. I reckon in the pipework will be fine and I can keep an eye on the thermometer in the vessel to check in the mash, I also have a very accurate probe thermometer I currently dangle in the mash so can check a third spot if necessary. So I believe you
 
Unless you can calibrate the probe it will be a lie, I had a recirculating BIAB for some years there was a temperature difference of about 1DegC between the point where the wort left the kettle and the point at which it was returned to the top of the mash by that I mean the end of the hose.
It's going to be the same or worse for any one pot (kettle rims) system.

ATB
 
Unless you can calibrate the probe it will be a lie, I had a recirculating BIAB for some years there was a temperature difference of about 1DegC between the point where the wort left the kettle and the point at which it was returned to the top of the mash by that I mean the end of the hose.
It's going to be the same or worse for any one pot (kettle rims) system.

ATB
Cheers for your input, it is appreciated.
I will of course calibrate the probe, as I said I have the fixed thermometer in the mash, the PID and an accurate probe I dangle in the mash and whilst I am sure you are correct about the 1Deg difference I have plenty of scope and positioning to get it the best I can, of course it is a compromise it's just about being as consistent a temperature as I can get and sure to be better than the Klarstein.
Not sure if 1 deg needs worrying about too much it is I assume a matter of the water going in from the recirculation being at or slightly above mash temperature without scorching the wort at the bottom of the kettle, but I can move the PID probe to another location if necessary.
 

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