Best pump for recirculation?

[Quernon]

I have an old Burco laundry boiler which I use for my BIAB brewing. I've found that the temperature in the vessel can vary drastically from one place to another. When I give it a stir the thermometer reading often changes by +/- 5°C or more. Obviously this is no good for my mashing efficiency or consistency.

I'd like to add a recirculation pump of some sort to help with this but have been finding it difficult to know what to go for. It doesn't need to pump a large volume of water nor does it need to be high pressure but it does need to be able to withstand 70+°C and be food safe. Any recommendations?

The other thing is whether it has to be hooked up to the tap and pump back into the top of the vessel or if there is some kind of submersible pump that could sit in the kettle and do the same job? The second option would be simpler if it's possible!

Thanks in advance.

 

[Fil]

submersible pump? the lil brown solar pumps are submersible.. but my limited understanding is that when submersed the pumps rely on the liquid to provide cooling so a lil more googling on that subject may be prudent?

And as long as you dont apply any active heat post striking the mash!! sitting a plastic pump near, on, or by an active heat element is asking for trouble..

Magnetically coupled pumps are the top shelf options and the lil brown solar pump isnt one of those, but if bought from the UK solar projects web site, they are covered for brewing under the shops warranties!!
Mine must be close to ten years old now and while it can be temperamental (sometimes needs a knock or even a head pull and impeller nudge to get going) still pumps tho..

DC powered pumps can be controlled with a simple dial up/down dc voltage regulator, i use a tattoo gun psu bought via ebay for less than a tenner tho both the lil brown solar pump and any mag-coupled pump can be throttled back with a valve on the output.

AC pumps generally cost more and if not magnetically coupled can require a bypass valve system feeding excess output back to the input port to reduce the output flow if needed.

 

[Bigcol49]

Hi!
The magnetic drive pumps are best: the flow out of the pump can be restricted without damaging the pump and you don't need to change the input voltage.
If you are prepared to wait for a few weeks there is a good buy from Aliexpress for about £50 inc. delivery. It's mains voltage.
The pump that I use is available from Brew Builder - it's a great pump but you'll need a 3 amp 12 volt power source,

 

[Quernon]

Thanks both, I thought the idea of a submersible pump might be a bit risky.

The next questions are how to hook it up to my boiler! I've uploaded a photo of the tap. It's not actually my boiler (mine isn't as green) but it's the best I can find on the internet. It's a very odd and rounded thread which I don't think it's really feasible to screw anything on to. Is there a better solution than a jubilee clip or two? I'll try to upload a more useful photo when I get home later but my mind is like a sieve these days.

 

[Smileyr8]

I use a solar pump you can use LED Driver to get down to the voltage required.

One problem with this is that it needs priming (getting the liquid to the pump). Once the mash is complete I remove it.

 

[Bigcol49]

It's a very odd and rounded thread

Hi!
You may be able to get a silicon tube onto the tap and fix with a jubilee clip.
The solution that I chose on my 40 litre Buffalo was to remove the tap and replace with a standard ball valve. On my HLT, another tea urn, I left the original tap in place and added a ball valve after cutting a new hole.
Looking at your photo, I would suggest the latter solution.

 

[Fil]

As said above a permanent connection (threaded and sealed) is probably not the best idea just in case of a blockage etc..

camlocks @ circa £5 a termination are expensive but a handy and easy option..

cheaper quick disconnect options are out there terminatng each tube with 2-3" of 15mm copper tube and using speedfit disconnects is one option, they should suffer 20x + uses before the orings start to fail and leak..

one handy bit of info is 1/2" bsp/ntp pipe threads are compatible with the m22? thread used on 15mm compression plumbers pipe fittings

and while pvc tube may be a lot cheaper that the thick walled silicone tube its not a suitable material for easy friction fits over tube ends and gets damaged(softens and looses transparency) with heat over 60c iirc..

 

[Quernon]

Hi!
You may be able to get a silicon tube onto the tap and fix with a jubilee clip.
The solution that I chose on my 40 litre Buffalo was to remove the tap and replace with a standard ball valve. On my HLT, another tea urn, I left the original tap in place and added a ball valve after cutting a new hole.
Looking at your photo, I would suggest the latter solution.

Thanks. How would you recommend making the new hole? I've heard a few people recommend the Q-Max Cutters but imagine that would be quite tricky to pull off on this boiler as it's twin walled.

I've ordered a pump and will try silicon hose and jubillee clip first of all and then see how I get on from there.

 

[BeerCat]

Thanks. How would you recommend making the new hole? I've heard a few people recommend the Q-Max Cutters but imagine that would be quite tricky to pull off on this boiler as it's twin walled.

I've ordered a pump and will try silicon hose and jubillee clip first of all and then see how I get on from there.

Mine is held on with a jubilee clip and extra pipe and has worked the last 18months. I have a doubled skinned boiler I would like to make holes in and am presuming it's possible with a little care. Hopefully someone else will know.

 

[Fil]

 

[Fil]

whoops of the 10 pics above pics 8 n 9 are in the wrong order..

 

[Bigcol49]

I've heard a few people recommend the Q-Max Cutters but imagine that would be quite tricky to pull off on this boiler as it's twin walled.

Hi!
The way to do it, according to other sites, is to use a hole saw on the outer skin to cut a hole exactly the same size as the cutting bit, drill a pilot hole in the inner skin and then operate the QMax from the inside (the cutting bit on the outside but biting into the inner skin) to cut the hole in the inner skin.