I've mentioned this on a few threads and thought it might be useful to write it up in the how to section, but this is how I manage my BIAB technique to include wort recirculation and standard sparging (as opposed to squeezing or dunk sparging).
It takes a bit longer than standard biabing, but the advantages are good efficiency, no squeezing, less trub from the grain bag and overall clearer wort. Whether that translates into better beer, I couldn't tell you. But I like what I make.
It uses the same equipment as most will be using for standard home brew scale batches (up to about 20L) but obviously can scale up and down with your equipment:
- 33L pot with tap, hop filter and false bottom (tap and false bottom are the important features)
- grain bag
- the usual other brewing paraphernalia
I'm assuming you'll have all your grain etc weighed out.
I use biabcalculator.com to calculate all water volumes, plus a bit of guesswork.
1: heat mash water
To about 72-75c. I don't have any temp control as I use gas, so I just measure this with a thermometer. My false bottom is in the pan at this stage. It's a circular cake rack, which keeps the bag off the hop filter. Take off the heat. Put bag in.
2: dough in
I scoop out the grain from whatever it's all in, and sort of chop it with a paddle to break up any balls. Stir it well once all the grain is in to ensure an even temperature. Check temp is whatever you're mashing at (67c if in doubt or the recipe doesn't specify). If I have to adjust I use the kettle or cold tap water rather than put it back on the gas.
3. Mash
When I'm happy I have the right temp, I just put the lid on the pot and cover the whole thing with a double duvet. Rustic, but the mash doesn't drop a degree.
Leave for however long the mash needs. I might give it a stir halfway but usually I don't bother now.
4. Drain the wort
This is where things start to differ from typical biab. At this point, with the grain bag still in, I open the tap on the pot and drain all the wort into an fv.
5. Recirculate
Leaving the tap open, and using a second fv to catch the wort, I pour (with a jug for big batches, or just tip from fv for smaller batches) the wort back into the pot, over the grain. This process filters the grain trub from the wort, which runs back out into the second fv again.
6. Sparge
I usually just heat sparge water using the kettle (cup of tea kettle, not brew kettle!) and the cooker while the mash is on. Get it to 80c. Again leaving the tap open on the pot I just slowly pour over the sparge water, letting it run into the fv.
Once this is done, close the tap, and lift out the grain bag. Don't tip up the pot to get the last bits of wort out, as any remaining grainy bits will come through the tap.
I don't now squeeze it or faff about, let it drain off (but don't use any remaining wort that comes out unless it look clear). Just dispose of the grains. Take out the false bottom if it's not integrated into your pot.
Your fv should now have lovely clear wort with minimal trub.
7. Boil
Clean the pot, add the wort back in, bring to the boil. Add your hops etc and boil as required.
The rest is then as you'd expect...chill as you would, add yeast...etc.
I'll try and take some photos next brew day, as a picture is worth a thousand words, and I've probably written more than that already.
Hope it helps someone!
It takes a bit longer than standard biabing, but the advantages are good efficiency, no squeezing, less trub from the grain bag and overall clearer wort. Whether that translates into better beer, I couldn't tell you. But I like what I make.
It uses the same equipment as most will be using for standard home brew scale batches (up to about 20L) but obviously can scale up and down with your equipment:
- 33L pot with tap, hop filter and false bottom (tap and false bottom are the important features)
- grain bag
- the usual other brewing paraphernalia
I'm assuming you'll have all your grain etc weighed out.
I use biabcalculator.com to calculate all water volumes, plus a bit of guesswork.
1: heat mash water
To about 72-75c. I don't have any temp control as I use gas, so I just measure this with a thermometer. My false bottom is in the pan at this stage. It's a circular cake rack, which keeps the bag off the hop filter. Take off the heat. Put bag in.
2: dough in
I scoop out the grain from whatever it's all in, and sort of chop it with a paddle to break up any balls. Stir it well once all the grain is in to ensure an even temperature. Check temp is whatever you're mashing at (67c if in doubt or the recipe doesn't specify). If I have to adjust I use the kettle or cold tap water rather than put it back on the gas.
3. Mash
When I'm happy I have the right temp, I just put the lid on the pot and cover the whole thing with a double duvet. Rustic, but the mash doesn't drop a degree.
Leave for however long the mash needs. I might give it a stir halfway but usually I don't bother now.
4. Drain the wort
This is where things start to differ from typical biab. At this point, with the grain bag still in, I open the tap on the pot and drain all the wort into an fv.
5. Recirculate
Leaving the tap open, and using a second fv to catch the wort, I pour (with a jug for big batches, or just tip from fv for smaller batches) the wort back into the pot, over the grain. This process filters the grain trub from the wort, which runs back out into the second fv again.
6. Sparge
I usually just heat sparge water using the kettle (cup of tea kettle, not brew kettle!) and the cooker while the mash is on. Get it to 80c. Again leaving the tap open on the pot I just slowly pour over the sparge water, letting it run into the fv.
Once this is done, close the tap, and lift out the grain bag. Don't tip up the pot to get the last bits of wort out, as any remaining grainy bits will come through the tap.
I don't now squeeze it or faff about, let it drain off (but don't use any remaining wort that comes out unless it look clear). Just dispose of the grains. Take out the false bottom if it's not integrated into your pot.
Your fv should now have lovely clear wort with minimal trub.
7. Boil
Clean the pot, add the wort back in, bring to the boil. Add your hops etc and boil as required.
The rest is then as you'd expect...chill as you would, add yeast...etc.
I'll try and take some photos next brew day, as a picture is worth a thousand words, and I've probably written more than that already.
Hope it helps someone!
