Bottling after stage 2 ferment in keg

[Keruso]

it sits under my stairs. Should it be somewhere colder? the barrel is a bit large to get into a fridge.

Leave it at room temperature to carb up

 

[phildo79]

I have never used a PB but I thought the purpose of them was to pour your pints directly from them, hence the co2 cartridge. So with that in mind, you would probably want the beer at your preferred temperature.

 

[Ivan W]

Hi, I should not have assumed you were using a Cornelius keg, they don't have taps. Sounds like you have a keg like the picture below. I don't know your kit instructions but as a guide you normally do 2 weeks fermenting including adding hops, 2 weeks carbonisation at room temperature, 2 weeks conditioning somewhere cooler. You will ferment in your bucket, you can transfer beer when fermentation is finshed to the Keg, adding what's called priming sugar to the keg, within two weeks the yeast will eat the sugar turning that into CO2 for fiz, it will add pressure to the keg too, which allows you to serve but when pressure drops you may need CO2 to serve the beer. Sediment is normal, especially if you add hops during fermentation (called dry hopping). If you are able to put your fermenting bucket somewhere cold (1.5 degrees celsius) after fermentation has finished, for 24 hours or more, it causes all the sediment to drop, but not everyone can do that without the equipment.

Hi, mind if I join in ? I'm not quite so new to this, but am intrigued by those contributors who don't do any secondary fermentation. I always have because I began by bottling all my brew, and without secondary fermentation ll you have is flat beer (?). I now tend to use a PB for secondary fermentation and storage, transferring to mini kegs for easier chilling. Am I right in assuming that it's because Corny kegs use higher pressure CO2 that secondary fermentation is unnecessary ?

 

[phildo79]

I don't think I have ever second fermented my beer. I used to transfer into a second fv just before bottling to help with clarity and minimise trub transfer but that was it. Not sure what the benefits are Vs the hassle of doing it.

 

[Ivan W]

I don't think I have ever second fermented my beer. I used to transfer into a second fv just before bottling to help with clarity and minimise trub transfer but that was it. Not sure what the benefits are Vs the hassle of doing it.

Hi Phildo 79, I too am from NI originally. Is your beer bottle conditioned ? or do you add CO2 as you bottle it ? I am a bit staggered by two or three on this forum saying they don't do secondary fermentation. If you don't condition it one way or another surely you are left with flat beer

 

[antonylj]

Hi Phildo 79, I too am from NI originally. Is your beer bottle conditioned ? or do you add CO2 as you bottle it ? I am a bit staggered by two or three on this forum saying they don't do secondary fermentation. If you don't condition it one way or another surely you are left with flat beer

I think original ales dont have co2. Maybe some like it that way.

I'm partially led to believe it may be best without being carbonated. Better for you maybe.

The sugar added to 2nd phase generates the co2. (( am I correct))

 

[phildo79]

Hi Phildo 79, I too am from NI originally. Is your beer bottle conditioned ? or do you add CO2 as you bottle it ? I am a bit staggered by two or three on this forum saying they don't do secondary fermentation. If you don't condition it one way or another surely you are left with flat beer

I very rarely bottle any more since I moved to kegs. However, the same principles apply when transferring, i.e. you need a clean transfer or you risk getting the dip tube or liquid out post clogged up (that's happened a few times). If I hadn't of come up with a method to trap all the trub / hop debris, then I guess I would still be using a second FV.

When I do bottle, I just add a 1/2 tsp of sugar to carb it. If I was bottling the whole batch though, I would batch prime.

 

[antonylj]

No problem bottling after 2nd ferment in the PB ?

Only asking cos I have a few friends and family that have taken a keen interest in the end product. Therefore, I looks like I will be drawing off about 6 bottles from the PB in a few weeks.

Maybe I could do it now? It could still sit it the individual bottles. Although i assume the co2 is needed to push through the beer from the PB

 

[phildo79]

Never used a PB so couldn't advise with 100% accuracy but if your PB is where your beer is carbing up, ready to be drank straight from the tap, then you will be drawing off carbed beer. That is a whole other issue with a list of potential problems. If you have indeed primed the batch already, I would run them off now. Gravity will allow the beer to flow out, unless I am missing something? Like I said, never used a PB.

 

[antonylj]

Do for future reference, what is being said by many.

1. Ferment.
2. Transfer to barrel and ready to drink or
2a. Transfer to bottles with half teaspoon of sugar in each, then allow min 2 weeks before consuming.

 

[Ivan W]

Hi Phildo and Antony, the picture is beginning to clear for me (just like the beer).
When sugar is added to the bottle and the bottle is capped, it creates a degree of secondary fermentation by mixing with the yeast particles that the beer will still retain. Craft brewers will call it "bottle conditioned" or "cask conditioned" (according to the receptacle). Home brewers seem to call it "carbing up" I have ben referring to it as secondary fermentation but perhaps that is confusing because it doesn't go through a FV twice.
I would suggest Antony that if you are using a PB you still need to add sugar so that it carbs up in the PB. I usually dissolve 100g sugar in 500ml of boiling water and allow to cool. Then add that to the beer as it transfers from FV to PB and if you want some in bottles then bottle it at that stage, and leave both PB and bottles in somewhere around 12 degrees for 1 week and somewhere cooler for 2 weeks before drinking, but the longer the better.

 

[phildo79]

You don't need to wait two weeks before drinking. They will be carbed up in about half that time. However the quality and style of the beer will determine if it's drinkable or not. If it's a kit, allow four weeks from brew day before drinking. I've yet to try a kit beer that was palatable in less time. Non kit beers that you can sometimes get away with opening early tend to be IPA's. The hops can mask the greenness sometimes. Best thing is having a keg or something similar so you can try small samples.

 

[antonylj]

Hi Phildo and Antony, the picture is beginning to clear for me (just like the beer).
When sugar is added to the bottle and the bottle is capped, it creates a degree of secondary fermentation by mixing with the yeast particles that the beer will still retain. Craft brewers will call it "bottle conditioned" or "cask conditioned" (according to the receptacle). Home brewers seem to call it "carbing up" I have ben referring to it as secondary fermentation but perhaps that is confusing because it doesn't go through a FV twice.
I would suggest Antony that if you are using a PB you still need to add sugar so that it carbs up in the PB. I usually dissolve 100g sugar in 500ml of boiling water and allow to cool. Then add that to the beer as it transfers from FV to PB and if you want some in bottles then bottle it at that stage, and leave both PB and bottles in somewhere around 12 degrees for 1 week and somewhere cooler for 2 weeks before drinking, but the longer the better.

Gotcha Ivan. Thanks. I'll siphoned off 6 bottles straight away.

Thanks.