Bottling high FG beers

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jayk34

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Since moving to AG, I have been getting high FG finishes. They have definitely finished as I have taken readings and it has stayed the same for several days.

I had a thought this morning whilst waiting for my eggs to boil in the hob for breakfast to test the new Thermometer that I bought for all grain brewing and found the issue. It is actually 4°C out (too low) and actually compared it to my old digital one I was using previously which is almost spot on in boiling water. So when I think I have been mashing at 67-68°C, in actual fact it's been in the range 71-72°C probably. So the issue is probably unfermentabke sugars based on high mash temperatures ?

My most recent one was the GH dry stout. It hasn't been in the FV for 2 weeks yet and I will be leaving it there until at least the 2 weeks are up but the gravity reading had been sitting at 1.018 from Sunday (OG 1.054). I have it a gentle stir this morning with sanitised long spoon and will leave it until the weekend to check again.

Now, to my question. If the beer had definitely finished fermenting by having same reading at the weekend and I bottle it with half teaspoon of sugar to carbonate, will the yeast only ferment the addition making it safe to bottle ?

I should add that I did order PET bottles for this scenario but was interested to know if in fact it would be safe in glass in this case ?

Thanks
 
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Sounds like you have it sussed already re temps, but if they are unfermentable then the yeast wont consume them in bottles. You will be fine. I ****** up my first AG and finished a stout at 1.030. Bottled it with no issues
 
Sounds like you have it sussed already re temps, but if they are unfermentable then the yeast wont consume them in bottles. You will be fine. I ****** up my first AG and finished a stout at 1.030. Bottled it with no issues
Thanks. That's what I was hoping for. Angry with myself for assuming the new thermometer was accurate. Will also have to calibrate my inkbird as well now.
 
Thanks. That's what I was hoping for. Angry with myself for assuming the new thermometer was accurate. Will also have to calibrate my inkbird as well now.
When mine was stuck, I roused it, heated it up, even pitched some turbo yeast.... If those sugars arent moving, they arent moving.
 
Thank you for asking this question.

I have just bottled a doppelbock that finished high after reading the same for the best part of a week and I have had the same concern.

I did the rousing and upping of temperature thing too.

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When mine was stuck, I roused it, heated it up, even pitched some turbo yeast.... If those sugars arent moving, they arent moving.
I had also bought some amylase enzyme to convert some non fermentables after reading some posts but have decided against it as the is no way to stop it (other than high heat) once it gets going in the fv.
 
I would be careful where you store the bottles, temperature has a lot to do with gushers & bottle bombs: mine get stored in the garage, which is fine in a cold winter, but as temps start to rise in summer this will re-activate any yeast and can result in exploding bottles.

I had a brew go wrong recently and bottled at FG1025, it still continued fermenting very slowly in the bottles but I drank the batch quickly so it wasn't an issue.

Suggest sampling them regularly and once you get a hint of a problem, store them somewhere cool and/or drink the rest of them within a few weeks.
 
I would be careful where you store the bottles, temperature has a lot to do with gushers & bottle bombs: mine get stored in the garage, which is fine in a cold winter, but as temps start to rise in summer this will re-activate any yeast and can result in exploding bottles.

I had a brew go wrong recently and bottled at FG1025, it still continued fermenting very slowly in the bottles but I drank the batch quickly so it wasn't an issue.

Suggest sampling them regularly and once you get a hint of a problem, store them somewhere cool and/or drink the rest of them within a few weeks.

The standard advice seems to be conditioning for two weeks in the warm. Is this actually necessary once you have carbonation, or once you can see there is pressure in the bottles can/should they be moved somewhere cooler?
 
The standard advice seems to be conditioning for two weeks in the warm. Is this actually necessary once you have carbonation, or once you can see there is pressure in the bottles can/should they be moved somewhere cooler?

The 2 weeks in the warm is to carbonate, so move once you are happy with the carbonation.
 

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