Brewing kits

Discussion in 'Beer Kit Brewing Discussion.' started by Rich27, Sep 4, 2019.

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  1. Oct 10, 2019 #41

    the_quick

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    Does it say what yeast it uses? I think most ale yeast work most comfortable at around 20. They will work at 18 but just slower. I used to worry a lot about fermentation and such. Now I just leave it in the corner and forget about it for 2 weeks - I haven't had a beer that didn't ferment in that time and it gave yeast time to clean after itself.
    Time is your friend here
     
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  2. Oct 10, 2019 #42

    kelper

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    The only way to tell what's happening is to measure the SG. But the blanket is a good idea and maybe insulation under the FV if the floor is cold and a good heat conductor such as tiles or stone.
     
  3. Oct 10, 2019 #43

    terrym

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    At 18 *C your yeast is beginning to get down to its lower limit. However it will probably still work it will just take longer thats all.
    You are also likely to have a small leak between the FV and its lid which allows CO2 to bypass the airlock. Your lid may look leak tight but it probably isnt. What I sometimes do is to place four strips of cling film over the rim of the FV and then replace the lid. Then stand back and watch the airlock start bubbling again after a while. But the moral of the tale is don't rely on your airlock.
    Long term I suggest you look at some form of heating for your beers during winter to maintain a steady temerature of 19/20ish*C. Faffing about with blankets is not really a solution because it does nothing when the FV drops below about 16*C and the yeast goes to sleep. Brew belts, brew pads and a water bath like below all work. I use the bath.
    https://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/threads/how-to-set-up-a-water-bath-for-your-fv.66407/
    And in the meantime try to get some heat around your beer but leave it alone for 10 days plus with the lid on to do its stuff before you start taking readings.
     
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  4. Oct 10, 2019 #44

    Rich27

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    Thanks for the ideas chaps.

    I've put a layer of polystyrene under the FV although the floor isn't overly cold as the carpet is quite lush anyway.

    I'm pretty certain there's no leaks in the lid as it's a bugger to get off when you want to. You really have to dig your finger nails in and yank really hard to get it to budge.

    I've heard of people using those reptile mats under their FV to keep the wort warm but not sure how effective they are with such large volumes of liquid.
     
  5. Oct 10, 2019 #45

    Skittlersteve

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    I had the same problem with a Range MYO American ipa, so bad i split into 2 f/vs for 2 days! When I merged them again it carried on fermenting for a day, then stopped,!! Moved it to warmer room, still no joy, then added another pack of yeast & it started again, after 3 weeks it was like soup! I bottled it & it tastes ok! (can't believe it's not infected) 2 weeks later its still only half clear! Moving to cool place tomorrow! It better be good after all this!! Cheers
     
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  6. Oct 10, 2019 #46

    dad_of_jon

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    Dextrose (aka glucose) is a monosaccharide. Sucrose e.g. sugar is a disaccharide ( glucose + fructose ) so they do get processed by yeast differently. Inverting sugar has broken down the disaccharide in two monosaccharides. Anyways table sugar is treated differently by the yeast compared with brewing sugar ( dextrose) whether or not you can discern the difference is your call. athumb..
     
  7. Oct 10, 2019 #47

    Rich27

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    I'm not very optimistic now after hearing that.

    Can you remember what yeast it uses? I'm certain the packet in my kit just said 'American IPA Yeast.' I put the hops in from the start with mine and added 50g of Cascade but wouldn't have thought that would affect it.

    I may get a heat mat for mine and see if that makes a difference.
     
  8. Oct 13, 2019 #48

    Rich27

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    An update on this saga.

    This is a strange one. I bought a small, low wattage reptile heat mat like I said I may try and sure enough, I placed it under the FV, in a gap I made between the polystyrene and the bottom of the FV and it brought my wort over 24hrs up to 22c and kept it there perfectly.

    Today (which is 7 days since I started the brew), I took a hydro reading and according to my ebay hydro it has already fermented out to 1006. The other odd thing is the colour as you can see from the photo. It's like a greenish yellow. I'm guessing it may be like that because I put the hops in right from the start along with an extra 50g of cascade pellets. It smells and tastes fine with obviously quite a big hop punch and slightly bitter but, no off flavours or odours.

    When I opened the lid to check there's still a thick krausen on top. Is this normal? Surely that colour can't be right?

    Any input much appreciated.
     

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  9. Oct 14, 2019 #49

    Skittlersteve

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    Yes, that's almost the same colour as mine was! After two weeks in bottling barrell, 2 weeks in bottles in the warm & a few days in the cool it is nearly clear! I cant believe how pale it is (lives up to it's name) Had to try one(as you do) & its quite strong, not an unpleasant taste but i think a few more weeks & it will be fine! Trued to upload pic, but it says "file toi large"!!
     
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  10. Oct 14, 2019 #50

    Rich27

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    I'm not sure what to do with it as my cheap ebay hydrometer says the gravity is now down to 1006 after just one week but can I trust it?

    I'm thinking, surely it must be contaminated being that colour but I was very anal with the sanitizing unless the tap I fitted to my FV has caused it but, it doesn't smell or taste off.

    Could the hops being put in at the start and extra hops cause the odd colour? It actually looks like one of those Mexican beers like Corona etc.
     
  11. Oct 14, 2019 #51

    Skittlersteve

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    Yes exactly that colour! To be sure, leave it anither week befire bottling or do as I did, transfer to another bucket & put it simewhere cold to clear it more,!
     
  12. Oct 14, 2019 #52

    kelper

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    Test your hydrometer in water; if it doesn't read 1.000 then the paper has slipped in the glass.
     
  13. Oct 14, 2019 #53

    Skittlersteve

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    Mine is OK but I forgot to take og!! DOH!!!
     
  14. Oct 14, 2019 #54

    Rich27

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    Yeah I tried this when I did the original brew and it had slipped slightly so tapped it gently on the worktop until it re-calibrated.

    I still can't believe it's fermented down from 1045 to 1006 in 7 days and it's this odd yellow/green colour. Maybe I didn't stir it enough at the start and all the malt etc is stuck at the bottom of the FV?

    The photo of the beer on the side of the box does look very yellow TBH
     
  15. Oct 14, 2019 #55

    Skittlersteve

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    Possible, but as I say "if it tastes ok! Then it's OK"! Lol
     
  16. Oct 14, 2019 #56

    kelper

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    So it could have slipped again. You need a new hydrometer - they are not expensive. The paper should not be loose.
     
  17. Oct 14, 2019 #57

    Rich27

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    I checked it in water before taking the reading from the beer but I think I will treat myself to a decent one from the local home brew shop instead of ebay tat.
     
  18. Oct 14, 2019 #58

    Rich27

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    I'm toying with the idea of giving it a stir in case all the important stuff is at the bottom but, I fear it may do more harm than good.
     
  19. Oct 14, 2019 #59

    Skittlersteve

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    Mine was like that! It has eventually cleared, but if you stir, it may take forever!
     
  20. Oct 14, 2019 #60

    Rich27

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    Yeah true
     

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