Building a new boiler...

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AdeDunn

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So, as I posted elsewhere, my ACE packed up. I did actual try to replace the terminal crimp to fix it, however the screw turned to powder as I tried...

So, my new boiler build is now well under way, using my old stainless steel 33 litre stockpot, a 2.4kw element from brewbuilder, the tap off my ACE, a small pickup pipe and some fitting I had already.

Drilled 2 pilot holes, then cut 1 x 20 mm hole for the tap, and 1 x 40 mm for the element, using Q-Max punches. The 40 mm was a beast to cut, but the 20 mm went through like a hot knife through butter...

Anyway, plan is to put a stainless steel pan scourer on the pick-up pipe to act as a hop and trub filter, can't be any worst than my old bazooka...

IMG_20180517_204950.jpg

I used the elbow because it turned out I'd made the hole for the tap a tiny bit too high, with the elbow on though the pick-up tube sits right on the bottom of the stock pot, so very little dead space. ;)

IMG_20180517_204439.jpg

It's not quite finished just yet, but definitely well on the way. Leak tested it in the bath and no sign of any leaks. Obviously it'll need a leak test whilst hot too with metal expanding when hot.

Still to do:-

Cut a 20 mm hole in the lid, to take the return from my recirculation pump.

Rig up a false bottom (I have an IKEA spatter guard, a 33 mm pizza tray and a load of 70 mm marine grade stainless steel M6 nuts and bolts to act as feet. Need to figure out if the spatter guard will do the job on it's own, as if it will that will free up the pizza tray to act as a sparge plate on top of the grain. As I want to re-circulate, and probably ultimately temperature mash, a false bottom is a must to keep the bag away from the element.

I'll be doing re-circulating BIAB still, already bought a BIAB bag from Maltmiller for this. As to control (including temperature for mashing), I'll post more details about this soon...

On the bright side, my stock pot actually has a slightly higher volume than my ACE did. Be nice to finally use it for more than just heating up my sparge water again...:thumb:
 
A little more work done on this today.

First up, I fitted some legs to the pizza tray, to make a false bottom.

IMG_20180518_143305.jpg

As you can see, it's not really big enough. I can't actually find any that aren't either too small or too big to fit though. At least it'll keep the bag from touching the element.

IMG_20180518_142118.jpg

Much bigger bag than I'm used to.

Cut a 20 mm hole in the lid, and fitted the parts for the return from the recirculation pump:-

IMG_20180518_142152.jpg

Then slapped the pump on to see how it looked. Return hose is a bit long, but I don't want to cut it as then if I need a longer return down the line I have to buy more hose... lol

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I now have it plugged in and heating up, so I can run a hot test for leaks, and give the pump and pipework a bit of a clean through.
 
Looking like a great build and with a direct-to-the-wall element connection you should have no problems hooking it up to either a PID unit or a constant-power box like the one I built. Best of all with builds like this if anything goes wrong replacement parts are cheaply available and easy to fit.

PS. I'd replace that ball valve with a 3-piece. There's a void in a ball valve that's impossible to get to without a valve you can take apart. Google around for ball valve infection for some horror stories...
 
That's my thinking too. For the short term I'll be getting the loan of a full on brewing control panel for the purposes of testing, but I'm going to use the time this gives me to put my own controller together.

The ball valve is a 2 piece, the font part unscrews to expose the ball itself and the back of the valve, so it's actually pretty easy to clean. I took it apart whilst fitting it, and it's spotless inside. ;) Not sure I'd get an infection from a ball valve that gets boiling wort passed through it for 15 minutes anyway (I fit a sort of cooling whirlpool set up for the last 15 minutes of the boil, same time as I add the wort chiller, and run the pump to kill any bugs living in there. I then continue to run this whilst cooling the wort, it MASSIVELY speeds up cooling to about 15-20 minutes max), but I don't even like them getting dirty. :laugh8: I should imagine it's a far bigger problem though if you aren't using a pump during some part of the boil, or not pumping via the ball valve. :thumb: Not saying I won't ever upgrade to a 3-piece, just that that might be about the same time I get a bigger stock pot... I plan to get a single pot system at some point in the near future, but my thinking is to use the 33 litre as a HLT for sparge water heating, a larger (say a 50L) for very occasionally making either larger batches, or batches with big grain bills, and the system for my regular brew days. The bag I have is sold as suitable for up to a 100 litre boiler... lol

Now I have the tools, and have had a go, I'm much happier doing another, larger boiler.

The one thing I am not very happy with to be honest is the diameter of the false bottom. I'd much rather have one closer to the sides of the pan, with some sort of gasket filling a tiny gap. It'll do for now though.
 
Just to note, after hot leak testing and cleaning.

With no tipping, after emptying the boiler using the tap I had 400 mls of water left in the boiler. With a just a quick tip, I had 40 mls of water left in the boiler. So the pick up tube definitely does it's job. I reckon if I can get the hang of whirlpooling, I might even be able to get away with using pellet hops again, maybe....
 
Hi!
Have you tried a pressure cooker gasket? My false bottom is too big to run the gasket around the edge but it works fine laid on top. Try perforated aluminium - you could cut it to fit exactly in your vessel.

Gap is nearly 2cms I estimate, so pressure cooker gasket won't work sadly, need something a fair bit thicker. I did actually buy an Ikea spatter guard, which is a fair bit bigger than the pizza tray, but it isn't rigid enough to act as a false bottom. Stupid thing is, the tray was SUPPOSED to be 33cms (same size as the spatter guard) going by the listing title, they pulled the usual trick of putting the actual (32cm...) diameter in much smaller text lower down in the description. I may give in though and attach it to the pizza tray or something. For the area I'd need to make a false bottom, the perforated aluminium route is more than I want to spend on a false bottom for something that hopefully will only be used for a few months. ;) I did find 35cm pizza trays, however they're carbon steel NOT stainless, so would likely corrode rather quickly.

Looking to do some thing similar to this so il be keeping an eye on this project

My one bit of advice would be, use a larger stock pot. 33 litres may seem like a lot, but it really isn't when it comes to brewing. 40 litres would be better, 50 litres ideal, giving more room for grain, true full volume mashing and also a comfortable and vigorous boil. Some recipes there's just no way to get more than 18 litres without a lot of tricks, like adding water during the boil, sparging, diluting in the FV and the like.
 
Hi @AdeDunn
Could you simply lay the spatter guard on the pizza tray for BIAB mashing?
400 x 400 perforated aluminium on eBay £10, free postage.
However, if only for a stop-gap solution, the spatter guard would work.
 
Yeah, I think I probably will do just that. I'll need to remove the little handle I fitted to the pizza tray, but I usually use butchers string tied to the false bottom to remove it anyway (back in my ACE). I've already estimated that some 3/4" silicone hose, split down the middle, should fit perfectly onto the spatter guard as a gasket, 1/2" hose leaves about a 3mm gap around the outside when I tested it, and my maths suggests that 3/4" has a wall thickness exactly 3mm thicker than the 1/2" stuff.
 
I've already estimated that some 3/4" silicone hose, split down the middle, should fit perfectly onto the spatter guard as a gasket, 1/2" hose leaves about a 3mm gap around the outside when I tested it, and my maths suggests that 3/4" has a wall thickness exactly 3mm thicker than the 1/2" stuff.

Let us know if it works. I bought a gasket for mine but it wont stay on. I do get a bit of grain seep around the side but it still holds the grain bed still when sparging so a big improvement.
 
Let us know if it works. I bought a gasket for mine but it wont stay on. I do get a bit of grain seep around the side but it still holds the grain bed still when sparging so a big improvement.

Yeah, I found the same when I tried to make a gasket for my ACE. To have it tight enough to do the job meant it would pop straight off when trying to fit the false bottom...

I did some experimentation though, and may have found a way...

First up, putting the spatter guard on top of the false bottom is going to be a bit pointless, I'd rather have the small handle on the false bottom to be honest:-

IMG_20180520_113155.jpg

Still a very large gap around it to fill, so I may as well just find a way to fill the gap around the pizza tray, and have my little handle to hold it by. ;)

Then, I started having a play with some pieces of 1/2" silicone hose I had, cutting a section out then wedging them between the false bottom and the boiler:-

IMG_20180520_121255.jpg

A Eureka moment! Well, almost... Except for the fact I don't currently have enough hose to do it properly, and would still need to find a way to get it to stay put... I looked into silicones (food safe, high temperature etc) however they're not recommended for use on un-primed ferrous metals.... I'm going to look into the reasons for this some more though, as it could be it just doesn't stick very well (same with plastics, hence I use Gold Label in my other hobby.).
 
Right, I've emailed the suppliers of Gold Label asking them the max temperature it can stand, and if it is ok at a pH between 5 and 6. Reason been, silicone won't adhere to steel unless you prime the steel first, Gold Label sticks to pretty near anything.. I've even used it to attach polycarbonate sheet to glass before now.

Also, I've now added insulation to the boiler, including to the base.

IMG_20180520_142526.jpg

IMG_20180520_141127.jpg

IMG_20180520_141158.jpg
 
Just a quick update as had a reply to my email asking about Gold Label Sealant. pH it's fine down to 5, however it's safe temperature range is -40 to +90 degrees C, so no good for use in a vessel you are boiling in.

I have however ordered a 35cm OD, 33cm ID, silicone rubber pressure cooker gasket from China, which MIGHT help. Just will need to still find a way to stop it from coming off all of the time.
 
For your gasket, what about taking a piece of food & temp safe silicon tube and splitting it lengthways so that you just slip that over the rim of the pizza tray?
 

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