Calling all Klarstein Owners.

Discussion in 'General Home Brew Equipment Discussion' started by Sadfield, Jan 31, 2018.

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  1. Nov 2, 2018 #61

    Henders

    Henders

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    Hey, sorry @lhooq, I've been meaning to reply for a while.

    I'll try and list what I used:
    1. Mini pump - I decided to start cheap as I'm BIAB so should be quite a clean affair.
    2. 2-piece ball valve - Screwed to output of the above pump.
    3. 2 x Cam-lock Type A - One screwed on to the Klarstein tap. One screwed on to the pump input.
    4. Cam-lock Type F - Screwed on to the output of pump tap above.
    5. 2m x Platinum cured 1/2" Silicone Hose - Cut into two lengths. One for Klarstein to pump; one from pump to top of Klarstein
    6. 4 x Cam-lock Type C - One at each end of the two lengths of tubing. Arguably the final one is a bit pointless as it's just dangling into the Klarstein. But I wanted the weight... a £4.75 weight :/ I should really 3D print a holder for the hose.
    7. 5 x SS Hose Clips - Maybe too many, I forget. Yeah, one at each end of each tube, recalling the above possibly unneeded Type C.
    8. n x Cam-lock Spare Gasket - I only bought one for some odd reason, but given another thread and postage costs etc, get a few now.
    Well, that's my setup. Next steps: 3D print a hose holding clip thing. Maybe a sprinkler. Sort out a semi-permanent holder for the pump so it isn't just clamped to the bench. I hope this all is of some use!
     
  2. Nov 5, 2018 #62

    lhooq

    lhooq

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    Thanks @Henders that is very useful, keen to try this soon!
     
  3. Feb 14, 2019 #63

    robster62

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    I'm seriously considering one of these have only made kits so far but want to progress to extract and then AG. Anyone got any advice on sparing.
     
  4. Feb 14, 2019 #64

    Meza

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    When the mash is done you can lift the grain basket up and prop it on supports to drain into the kettle. You can manual sparge with a jug, or if you've got a machine with a pump (for recirculation mash) you can do full-volume mash and skip the sparge.
     
  5. Feb 14, 2019 #65

    Henders

    Henders

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    @robster62 I say go for it, after tasting (I know this isn't exactly science) my friend's Wilko kit stout vs. my all grain stout over Christmas, the different was amazing, and made me so glad I took the jump in!

    Regarding spargy world, I would suggest don't worry too much the first couple times. Then when you're suitably annoyed seeing the dark pool of good stuff wherever you dump the bag:

    Yeah re-circulation is lovely. I tend to do a half-panic/manic job of firstly trying to put the re-circulation "source" pipe into a clean bucket of tap water, and then lift the bag and sprinkle through it. But my pump setup/height of source bucket starts causing it to chug and get air involved. Then I panic/give up and dunk at some stage, and then give up.

    Rah.
     
  6. Feb 14, 2019 #66

    robster62

    robster62

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    If I do a manual spare do I need a second water heater? Should I go for one with a recirc pump?

    Henders does that mean your efficiency is low or should I not worry about that sort of thing yet?
     
  7. Feb 14, 2019 #67

    Henders

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    My non sparging (you missing a g :p) was pretty pants efficiency, around 60%, but it makes little difference to the end product, and/or you set that in calculator and compensate. Cost negligible.

    Water heater I'd say no. All I do is either heat a 7L pan on the hob until I get bored, or completely forget and just use tap temperature.

    I'd only get a pump if you want to do re-circulation. That's made the biggest difference to my efficiency, which really is just a "oh I feel good" factor thing.
     
    crowcrow likes this.
  8. Feb 15, 2019 #68

    robster62

    robster62

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    How much wort could I sensibly boil in a 30l kettle?
     
  9. Feb 15, 2019 #69

    robster62

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  10. Feb 17, 2019 #70

    robster62

    robster62

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    Anybody know anything about this?
     
  11. Feb 17, 2019 #71

    Gulpitdarn

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    I completely agree with you there! There is indeed a huge difference although I do still very much enjoy making my Wilko kits even if they are brewed short (15 litres as opposed to 23 litres and DME rather than sugar)
     
  12. Feb 20, 2019 #72

    Mark Nohr

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    Looks like the US version will only run on 110V and is limited to 1800W :(
    I figure the power limit maximum is a setting on a hidden factory configuration menu. Anyone know if this can be accessed (special button press combo)?

    Naturally I would insure the outlet and building wiring would safely support this higher power.
     
  13. Feb 25, 2019 #73

    Madhouse

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    Hi all, we're currently in the process of installing a new kitchen and Mrs Madhouse has expressed disapproval in me brewing in it - the cheek!!

    Anyway, every cloud and all that, I'm thinking of using it as a catalyst to get me some brew specific equipment as I'm currently stovetop BIAB. Now I can't get away with spending Grainfather money but I might just be able to argue the case for a Klarstein Maischfest at under £200, what's your thoughts?
    I'm not doing large brews and typically have around 10L of strike water so this would be plenty big enough.
     
  14. Feb 27, 2019 #74

    Henders

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    Hey Mark,

    I was watching a youtube video (think it was clawhammer) where they were discussing (an old video i think) about the limitations of domestic wiring in US, and that was why the maximum wattage for the eBIAB setup they sell was/is 1500W or so. This makes me think it's a hard-wired limit if all domestic properties can only supply that much.

    But my useless-making caveat is I forgot how electricity work about 10 years ago so who knows... not me!

    Edit: Oh, @Madhouse, where will you brew if the kitchen is out-of-bounds? And obviously, in this thread I think, I'll say do it :).
     
  15. Feb 27, 2019 #75

    Madhouse

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    Well @Henders having discussed it she thought garage - but that’ll never be clean enough to brew in - the root of the issue seems to be protecting the new hob.

    So in my head the rest of the kitchen’s fair game for brewing athumb..

    Also, pre-empting the next question regarding the new worktops - does the base get hot?
     
  16. Feb 27, 2019 #76

    Henders

    Henders

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    Aha! I brew in the garage, and my current challenges are:
    1. It's getting damp in there
    2. Actually it's ok other than that worry! As long as i'm organised there isn't too much running back and forth between there and the house.

    However it has meant I am variously planning/implementing:
    1. New garage door that actually seals
    2. Some method of steam extraction
    3. Some insulation on roof to help with general warmth and avoid damp rafters

    My garage is a flat cold-roof or whatnot, joists with various types of board on top and the bitumen or whatever on top of that.

    Come summer I'm contemplating an awning over the decking and doing 'outdoor' brewing.
     
  17. Feb 27, 2019 #77

    Madhouse

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    All that boil-off has gotta go somewhere. Am hoping my current plan is approved, they’ve a sale on so am working that angle too.

    Added bonus of the new kitchen is I’m re-purposing the fridge for a brew fridge - that’ll be in the garage.

    Like the idea of outdoor brewing though!
     
  18. Feb 27, 2019 #78

    Henders

    Henders

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    Sorry, missed your base question. I don't recall it getting hot, though tbh I don't prod it much. But my amateur horrific OSB table hasn't any scorch marks going on so I think we're ok.
     
  19. Feb 27, 2019 #79

    Mark Nohr

    Mark Nohr

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    Yes the typical outlet supports 15A so 1800W and I'm sure the US UL standards require a limitation be oberved (don;t want to rely on breakers tripping to prevent a wall fire). What make me think this can be increased programatically is that there is already the ability to adjust power consumption programatically and manufacturing different circuitry instead of putting a limit in the software seems unlikely. There is sure to be a hidden factory settings menu somewhere.
     
  20. Feb 28, 2019 #80

    pottsworth

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    The wattage of a circuit is the voltage squared divided by the resistance, so for 2 different voltages you would have to have different circuitry. If not, the US system would be quarter the wattage of the EU system.

    Looking at the klarstein, they have 2 physical switches to set wattage, then a temperature on the screen, so I assume the system just turns the stated wattage heating circuit on/off based on the set temperature vs. the wort temperature. I.e., the power consumption is set physically, not via the programme.

    If that’s the case then there will be something hard wired in to set the resistance of each circuit, and therefore the wattage, either in the element itself or in the switchable power electronics. It may be that there is an inline resistor that you could swap out to increase the wattage, but you would need to know what you were doing, as it would be mains voltage.
     
    Last edited: Mar 1, 2019

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